Jump to content

Recommended Posts

thinner oil is only gonna make knock more. try running 1 quart of 20w 50 oil in it with ur regular oil. it should help some. trust me ive had the problem before. its not a major deal unless it starts hammering when u start it up then u got problems. just a lil knock isnt a big thing to worry about on start up. if ur motor has a lot of miles on it its normal for small block chevys

forum2_zpsxe3pvakm.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thicker oil would be appropriate if the motor is knocking continuously while driving/idling.

Thinner oil if just on start up to make it easier to draw.

If you live in a colder climate, you're supposed to use thinner oil in the winter. If you run 10-30 in the summer, winter you should run 5-30. The lucas oil stablizer also helps.

Edited for spelling

trust me dude i worked at a few car dealerships before. when we got a used car in that knocked like that we poured either thicker oil in it or even fuggin gear lube and that shits 90 weight oil. trust me thicker oil WILL stop the knocking. his motor is knocking cus the oil isnt filling up the gap between his crank shaft and the bearings fast enuff and thats just what happens with age. the thinner oil wont fill that gap up and stick to the crank as good as the thicker oil will. try using the thicker stuff in it and if it dont help well then zayres29 can call me a ass hole lol

forum2_zpsxe3pvakm.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will say this again.. THICKER OIL will not help a sticking lifter on a dry start. It'll only make it worse. In colder weather use THINNER oil. I am not pulling this out of my ass.

"Heavier viscosities, such as 20W-50, straight 30W or 40W, may help maintain good pressure in hot weather but are too thick for cold weather driving and may cause start-up lubrication problems - especially in overhead cam engines.

Light viscosities, on the other hand, such as straight 10W or 5W-20, may improve cold weather starting and lubrication but may be too thin in hot weather driving to maintain good pressure."

I work at an autoparts store, and have had my share of engine problems and built/rebuilt a few motors. I deal with this issue all the time at work during the winter.

Using thicker than recommended oil can damage a motor if not used properly. Using thicker oil than recommended can be harder to properly flow in the engine and causing the engine to work harder. Thick oil will HIDE a knocking motor that knocks continuously, but it will in no way FIX it.

I'd hit that so fucking hard whoever pulled me out would be King of England.

Lol... looks like we were on the same page. Car-B-Ques suck.

ya, tires and paint burning make the marshmallows taste funny.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i think im going to try some oil additive first and if that doesnt work then ill change the oil over seems like a waste to take that brand new oil out after it was just changed right before i bought the truck

Btw that was the first person. Ever banned by me while dropping a deuce. Feel privileged

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will say this again.. THICKER OIL will not help a sticking lifter on a dry start. It'll only make it worse. In colder weather use THINNER oil. I am not pulling this out of my ass.

"Heavier viscosities, such as 20W-50, straight 30W or 40W, may help maintain good pressure in hot weather but are too thick for cold weather driving and may cause start-up lubrication problems - especially in overhead cam engines.

Light viscosities, on the other hand, such as straight 10W or 5W-20, may improve cold weather starting and lubrication but may be too thin in hot weather driving to maintain good pressure."

I work at an autoparts store, and have had my share of engine problems and built/rebuilt a few motors. I deal with this issue all the time at work during the winter.

hes got you on that one in cold climates you have to use thinner oil cause same smaller engines wont even crank up north if the oil is too thick

Btw that was the first person. Ever banned by me while dropping a deuce. Feel privileged

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hes got you on that one in cold climates you have to use thinner oil cause same smaller engines wont even crank up north if the oil is too thick

It also helps that I've been working on motors with my dad since I was about 12 too lol

I'd hit that so fucking hard whoever pulled me out would be King of England.

Lol... looks like we were on the same page. Car-B-Ques suck.

ya, tires and paint burning make the marshmallows taste funny.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've gotta agree with Mikesmith0890, thicker oil will be harder for your oil pump to move especially when cold. Thinner oil will be able to move quicker in cold climates.

Before switching to a thicker/thinner(whatever you choose) motor oil, run some sea foam through your engine, before you change your oil.

A motor with that mileage on it probably has a lot of carbon build up. I would recommend running a can of sea foam in your engine oil, and then change the oil out 75-100 miles after you pour it in. It will clean out all the oil passages inside your motor, and your oil should be a dark nasty looking color afterwards as the sea foam does it's job.

I seafoamed my 2001 Impala LS w/ the 3.8L Supercharged motor after never been done, having 109k miles on it, Ran seafoam through the brake booster, poured a can in the motor oil, and put some in the gas tank as well. Changed my oil 8 0 miles after pouring it in, and it was a nasty black color. The stuff really works. Putting it in your gas tank cleans out your fuel passages as well as your injectors so you may notice an increase in performance, especially in a motor with higher mileage.

First System

2002 Impala LS 3.8L V6, 128,365k miles.

Alternator: DC Power 190Amp H/O Alternator

Headunit: Kenwood KDC-BT945U.

Speakers: MBQuart 6.5" Comps, 6x9 3-way.

Amplifer: Eclipse 3322 on front 6.5 components, and a Infinity Kappa One @ 2ohm- 800w

Subwoofers: 2 REAudio SRX12D2 wired to 2 ohm.

Box: 3.1cuft box tuned to 33hz. sealed off to cabin

Big 3- done with all Knukonceptz KCA 0 gauge.

Don't drop below 14.1v at full tilt. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And another thought.

Another possibility could be timing chain slap on startup. Something that happens on higher mileage vehicles since they may be due for new chain. The sound goes away after the oil pressure builds up. Just depends on the actual sound you are hearing.

I'd hit that so fucking hard whoever pulled me out would be King of England.

Lol... looks like we were on the same page. Car-B-Ques suck.

ya, tires and paint burning make the marshmallows taste funny.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 600 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...