r0llinlacs

Kenwood amps are junk. Same with their speakers. It's a shame, because they make such nice head units.

lol. Bad battery connections can cause all sorts of weird problems.

If you feel like digging more into it, check the pins on the harness. Sometimes they can get pushed out and won't make contact.

Finally, after so many years of "thinking" it, I've seen it! They made a two-way system JUST for the bass! I've always been disappointed in a woofers ability to produce a flat frequency response from say 20-100hz. (IE: Big woofers always hit the lows, smalls always hit the highs) So, I've always thought of doing big woofers in big boxes for low bass, and smaller woofers in smaller boxes for high bass, all crossed over appropriately, to achieve a much more flat frequency response. I just want nice, tight, loud high bass, with loud, forceful lows. The lack of flat frequency response drives me to listen to whatever sounds good on the sub, and not necessarily whatever sounds good to me or my mood. I typically go for the big boxes that hit the lows, so therefore I usually go for the songs with low bass. I did have a set of three 10" MTX in a sealed box, and couldn't believe the clarity and intensity of the higher bass, and therefore drove me to listen to those types of songs, even songs of a genre I don't even listen to. I just want the best of both worlds, and to not have to dictate the songs I listen to, to whatever sounds good on the sub. Seeing this motivates me to build my own two-way bass system and realize my dream.

First, get rid of the stock head unit. That alone could be the reason your lower notes aren't hitting. Get a decent brand head unit (Alpine, Kenwood, Pioneer). Don't beat yourself up over it though, almost any aftermarket deck will be better than stock. Next, get a bigger slot port box built. Somewhere around the neighborhood of 2 to 2.5 cubic feet for each sub. I don't get all into the paramaters and specs, I just build based on the fact that more air space = lower resonant frequency. A simple, yet very effective way of freeing up air space inside the box is to mount the subs backwards. Having the magnet on the outside of the box, and the concave shape of the cone inside the box will both add precious space without building or buying anything. This will give you decent results until you plan your next move, or you may even be happy with it set up like that.

JL does not care about being loud. They want to be clean. IE: you are stupid if you buy JL to be loud SQ and R.I.P.S. are why I bought my 1000/1 (at dealer cost of course). I am not disappointed. It is by far the cleanest sounding sub amp I've ever heard.

Hooked up one of these at work today. It's big and ugly. It did have 0gauge inputs. Customer only had 4 gauge wiring with 100amp fuse. Anyways, it was for a JL 13W7 at 1.5 ohms. After setting the gains and what-not, it actually flexed the W7 pretty good. Definitely NOT the roughly 3000rms rating it claims to put out at 1.5 ohms, but it worked good for that sub at that ohm load. Judging by the sound and seeing the sub flex, I'd say its about 1000rms at 1.5 ohms. (Obviously cant be more, since the 100amp fuse was still in-tact after a test run)