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Help with a custom ported box for tahoe


viciouz_dogo

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Whats going on everyone im new to the forum been reading for about a week but couldnt find any info on my situation. I have a sundown sa12 thats being powered by an RE audio SE4000DE in a 2007 tahoe. I would like to get it tuned to 32mhz and somewhere between 2-2.5 just not sure what size ports to create. Wanted to put the subwoofer facing the trunk and 2 ports on the top of the box. these are the dimensions im working with length would be 46inches height could be 20 inches up to 22 inches and top width is 9 inches and bottom width is 11 inches. The side facing the trunk door would stay the same the slop would be the back part of the box closest to the back of the seats.

Somethin i was considering is I have captain back 3rd row so i have the whole in the center of both seats so i could face the sub towards the front of the cabin, would that sound better then having it 1 inch away from the trunk door?

I really appreciate the help.

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A "general" rule of thumb is to run around 14-16sq inches of port area per cube, although there are many more factors, that is a good guideline to start with. Are you planning on running square ports?



Personally I think your best bet would be to have your sub fire up, and the port aim back. Or have both the sub/port aim back or sub/port aim up. Is there a specific reason you want to have your port up and sub back? And is there a reason you want 2 ports?

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Whats going on towliee thanks for the response. The reason for my sub either facing the trunk door or the cabin and not up is i dont have enough space since im keeping my 3rd row and squeezing the custom box in the back area hence i couldnt face the sub up if i wanted to since the top total area to work with is only 9 inches and the bottom of the box total would be 11 inches. The only area i could actually put the sub is the front or the back of the box.

As for the ports i was thinking of creating 2 round ports on the top or one long square port at the top. Im really have no clue what type of port would best suit this custom box setup.

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post count has nothing to do with it. Don't get your panties in a bunch. It's been three days since the last response, so the guys who do most of the enclosure help probably haven't seen it since there have been other threads bumped up more recent than this one. Instead of crying about not being helped, simply say "bump" once a day so it gets moved to the top of the list.

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Again: stop crying, be patient, bump the thread tomorrow if no one has offered any more assistance. No one cares about your lack of posts. If you feel like this isn't the forum for you, there's a dozen others you can try. Also, you have only asked one question in your posts, which was " would that sound better then having it 1 inch away from the trunk door?"

So to answer your only question, no one can tell you if it will sound better to you. everyone hears differently. If you face it towards the hatch then the air moved by the cone will load off of the hatch, and being that close to the hatch will probably bounce right back, maybe causing an unloading issue. If you face it towards the front of the cabin, it won't have a wall to load off of, possibly reducing the output, but less likely to have any hatch panel rattle.

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ive seen the guys with the more experience with boxes post in the last 3 days i came for help not to be brushed off as a nobody which is the vib im getting by what ive noticed on how post are prioritized.

Don't take it personal, there can be a lot of reasons why your questions don't get responded to in the timeframe you desire. Have patience, be respectful, and bump your post every day or so.

Generally speaking, the amount of effort someone puts into responding to your question will reflect the amount of effort you put into asking it. Make what you write easy to read. Spelling and grammar matter to a lot of people. Organize your thoughts and read over what you wrote before you hit that Post button. If I read someone's post twice and still don't understand what they are trying to say, I'm done.

Firing your ports up and sub back should work, but you want to make sure you have enough space between your sub and the hatch. 2" would be the minimum I'd like to see.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

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Reedal thank you for your help i appreciate it thats all i was asking for. I came here with the intentions of being part of this forum but it started to seem as if my post was being brushed off as i keep seeing and reading older members get a reply and my post just kept getting more views.

My original question was actually what type of port and dimensions of the port would best suit my box dimensions of 46Lx20HX9width on top and 11 width at the bottom of the box.

I wanted an opinion on what would sound better but i should of asked what would hurt the sub less facing the trunk with only 1 inch of space or facing the cabin with nothing to bounce off. I normally have my subs facing up but i was just trying to get a custom ported box with those dimensions. Again im thankful for your help and any help i could get from here seems like i started off on a bad note but just seemed like no one was trying to help.

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Triticum thanks for your reply i appreciate your help as well. i personally try not to bump on any post unless its needed and as new member figured bumping would be pointless i would assume someone would get to it. just got annoyed to see so many views but no input. But i will sure use the bump up method instead of the waiting method.

The only way i could get the 2 inches from the trunk would be with a 9 inch width and ill try that instead of facing the sub towards the cabin.

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