Brandon_4078

Can one of the mods please change my username/display name to include an underscore between my name and number like this: Brandon_4078 I just want to have my username the same as other forums (easier to remember). Thank you!

i would set mine to go to "ee-leven". lol Lol thats the only downside this particular deck has a + or - ten but it doesn't distort early at least to my ears and I am picky. (needs to pick up a DD-1 one of these days) This one does that too but it also allows you to compensate the over all volume level. It's a single din one. It will allow your last clear volume level to be to max level so 51 would be clipping which you can't reach. So instead of stopping at 49, 48, or whatever it may be you can just rip the nob all the way up and not have to meticulously select you top volume and some of those knobs can be touchy. So when your driving you don't have to worry as well, you know you have clean power no matter where your set at. All it is, is a convenience thing.

So, I have a JVC KD-AHD69 head unit in my F-150 and was pleasantly surprised with the quality for what I payed but was kinda looking into trying another brand (Pioneer or Alpine) for my Jeep. Anyway the really cool thing about the JVC deck I have is that it has a Volume Adjust setting. The JVC has 50 volume levels so lets say it distorts at 42 for example. You then can go into the Volume Adjust and set it to -8 and then you can crank it all the way up to 50 and have no distortion. You could also increase the Volume Adjust if it is not already distorting at 50, which probably wont be the case. It's not a huge deal nor is it an advertised point just a nice bonus feature so you don't have to worry about going over a certain number. So I was wondering if anyone new if other decks had that feature??? Again I didn't really see it advertised anywhere on mine when I got it from Crutchfield and they give pretty much every spec and feature they find on a product so it will probably be one of those things you have to have the head unit to know... Thanks

Yes. Very good way of putting it.

I am probably the only one on this site that will say that I don't mind caps in a well balanced electrical system. Yes there is a lot of BS marketing behind them but the facts are that if your electrical system can keep up regularly with out the cap, adding the cap will reduce the peaks your electrical system will see. It will be a nice continuous draw instead of a bunch of short shots to your system. Many people just throw a bunch of batteries in there vehicle to not see the voltage drop (which is necessarily for BIG systems and those systems won't benefit from any type of cap because their draw is way too high). I seen a third party video done (i.e. not by someone who produces or sells caps) proving the benefit of caps on audio systems it was very thorough. Can't remember where I saw it but proved the point none the less. I'm sure I'll catch a lot of flak for this but oh well its just my opinion.

Only if your pound with your car off, if you have your car on you do not need an iso. Edit: That is more of a relay it looks like it switches to the highest voltage battery all the time, not a great thing. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Just follow the directions and it should work for you. Just gotta wipe them down after, that's the most hassle there is which is nothing unless there wire spokes . The only way it wont work is if the are stained (i.e. discolored clear coat from gunk sitting on the wheels too long) at that point I don't know what would clean them. I had two yellowish spots on one wheel that were like that from neglect not too noticeable and it was my winter beater so didn't bother me. Let me know how it goes.

My guess is it's break dust, if it is, it will be like a grimy grey coat all over the wheel. I had this problem with my Dodge Neon when I still had it. My rims where mostly black but the silver metallic paint around the outside would look awful and the black would look chalky too. I used this: http://www.blackmagi...eel-cleaner.php You can get it from wallmart cheap. And it's ph neutral so its gentle on all finishes. It worked well for me on my painted wheels. You could wax it after you get it off to prevent it from sticking as much like DjCrush said. I wouldn't wax it if it's a matte/flat paint though. Was always under the impression that it would make the matte/flat paint look like junk, an autobody shop that did a spoiler for me said to keep wax off it, just wash it.

This is done on a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee ( WJ 1999-2004 ) but may or may not work for other vehicles with a similar attachment style. I wanted to put HID headlights and LED blinkers and driving lights in but on these vehicles you can't get to them without removing the housings. I searched how to remove the housings and found that all you have to do is remove the long bold on top and then PULL TO DISENGAGE THE BALL STUDS FROM THERE SOCKETS that are on the backside. I put that in caps because this is where the problem lies. If your headlights have this ball and socket type attachment and have not been out since the vehicle was made (like mine most likely), or in a really long time, yours can be stuck in there really hard. I have searched and nobody had a solution to this else where. If herd of people breaking the front plastic assembly that holds the grill headlights and etc from pulling that hard. I've also heard of people removing there bumper and grill to get at them from the backside (I was not about to set aside down time for this). What happens is the ball studs on the back of the headlight are made of metal and corrode binding it in the plastic socket. Yes they bind that hard. When I was pulling on mine the the whole front plastic assembly was flexing So I did some investigating and was able to see 2 of the 3 sockets on the backside where the yellow arrows point From the backside right to left What I did: 1: Got penetrating oil (WD-40) with the straw attachment 2: Set the straw on the sockets 3: Slowly depress the nozzle so it just comes out (so it doesn't splatter everywhere) 4: Let it soak for 30 minutes 5: Repeat steps 2-4, two-? more times (until you get the headlight out) 6: Once the headlight was out I took a green scotch brite pad with penetrating oil and scrubbed the ball studs really good. 7: Apply a THIN layer of grease to prevent future problems This process will break down the rust and allow lubrication to get into the socket. After three coats on the driver side it popped out like a brand new vehicle the passenger side took double or triple wasn't really counting. Now if you need them out right now and have the time you can remove the entire bumper etc in order to get them out. I thought this was a good alternative to that or breaking something though. This was my first right up so I hope it's easy to follow. This might be more common of a problem in snowy area's where they salt roads, like WI where I am.

That would be curly maple like this: http://i00.i.aliimg....newood_Tops.jpg Its one of my favorites, I made a matching bread and cutting board out of it with black walnut.

Maybe I'm lucky I don't have one of those "bosses" LOL

isolators are a terrible thing to install in your system. unless you plan on going to a fancy car show where you're going to play music for hours on end with your car off, then you dont need one. isolators cut off your battery from getting charged by the alternator. thus draining the shit (and dropping the voltage like crazy) out of the battery. then once it drops down to like 11v or 10v or whatever, the isolator will switch the alt charge back on on the battery. alternators fucking hate charging dead batteries. they're made to keep them topped off. basically harming your alternator and shortening its life. and not to mention the voltage drop from the uncharged battery will harm the amp, making it produce more heat and less power than it can. The isolaters I have looked at allow charging but don't allow the battery to drain the other battery. Here's an example: http://www.newmarpow...ntegrators.html http://www.oreillyau...N0356&ppt=C0061 but again expensive and unnecessary...unless your bumpin' with the engine off. You could get away with a 150 amp fuse on 1700watts... but yea go with the 250 amp, it will give you extra room so you don't blow fuses on accident. Looks good to me!

The battery iso is not a terrible idea, maybe unnecessary though batteries are not my strength. I guess my question for you is how many watts are you gonna be putting out realistically? The fuse will depend on that...