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Does anyone know of anyone that designs enclosures for people? I am looking for a ported box for 2x 12" zv6 subs.

I'm new. I need guidance please. I have two Sundown Sa-12 1000 watt D4 subs and I am trying to decide on the right amp. Just started researching and this what I've observed so far. I'm looking more for efficiency, realizability and quality vs which amp puts out the most power. For example I saw the Orion uncertified dyno test where it did 3866 watts @ 1ohm (beast) but it pulled 481 amps of current. The dyno test on the SKv2 3500 pulled 400( would assume the 2500 pulls less current. Also the JP23 did 3334 watt and pulled 361 amps.) Should that much current be a concern? Isn't that what put stress on your. II realistically need 2000-2500 watts rms with the least amount of strain on my vehicle. I'm not in competition. I'm not going to go out and spend $500 for a 420 amp alternator and another $400--$700 for for an extra battery/power bank. I have an XS power battery, the big 3 upgrade and if necessary I'll fork out $350 for a 250 amp alternator. I know the Orion is a monster and I can control the power. But I'm told to be careful with Orion bc of bankruptcy. And I also read that the amp doesn't perform as well when wire to two Subs with a 1 ohm load. Any comments, insights and recommendation would be greatly appreciated.

Hello, IBare with me I know a little but I'm new to the SPL game. I'm Looking for the right amp or amps for two SA-SERIES V.2 12" D4 SUBWOOFERS I just purchased. I'm trying to decide on whether I should wire them down to a 1 ohm load and use a half bridge like the SKar SKv2 2500d (or if there is anything better out there for $500) or use two SIA 1250D's (one for each dub at 2 ohms.) The SIA puts out 120 watts @ 2 ohms and you all know what the SK can do. I hear a lot about 2 ohms loads being having better sound quality. As far a electrical is concerned right now I have an XS D4800 power batter, the Big 3 and I will if necessary get a bigger alternator (current alternator is 180 amp). I have a JL audio Twk 88 digital processor that runs to my JL XD800/8 amp for my highs and mids. I'm only using 6 channels though (uses about 600-700watts) and to my former Sub woofer amplifiers which put out 600 watts each. (So combined the system used around 1800-2100 watts give or plus. My highs and mids are clear and loud. I sold my subs and sub amps bc I want more bass. But I still would want the subs clear and load and as accurate as possible. I like the idea of having the 2 ohm loads but I've heard that full bridge amps don't bring as much to the table. I've never really compared how a sub sounds at 1 ohm vs 2 ohms. Is there a big difference? Sorry for the long explanation. Any insight and or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

That completely slipped past my mind today when I made that post... JFC.. I went and chased volts around the truck tonight and the 213k mi alternator doesn't seem to be keeping up anymore. I haven't been putting many miles on the truck recently either, currently working less than a mile from home... short 15 minute trips here and there. I was just getting 14.xV while idling when I made the original post... Going to keep troubling shooting and upgrading. Thanks for the help Joe

That a very low voltage with your alt running, if you rev up the engine and you still see 13V or so then you are almost not charging the battery, resting voltage usually is 12.5 - 12.8V and the alt should be sourcing the 14.4 or so.

Yes. And I think I see where that question is leading to. Going to go double check a couple things real quick.

In any case they specify rated power @ 14.4V so your amp is not sourcing anywhere near rated power.

After thinking on this, I am having zero audible distortion (nor when I was viewing the Oscope during play..again for what its worth with a cheap tool). I actually tested the Sub EQ setting on my HU just now. 40Hz -15db track from SMD's CD, everything wide open/flat, bass knob to max, I did not set off the DD1 until 14 of 15 Sub EQ setting was reached. I didn't try listening to this though, just seems absurd.

Understood, 12.2 getting spicy, definitely below what the truck needs. When setting gains...HU is full open filters and flat EQ (120Hz LPF..highest setting), SIA2500 has HPF/LPF opened to maximum ranges. After gain is set, HU stays at 120Hz LPF, I tune LPF/HPF on amp with DMM then maybe adjust slightly by ear after that. I never turn up the bass or sub EQs on the HU, only mids/treble sometimes. I never use the Bass Engine on the HU. Battery in DD1 is 4-5 weeks old. I will swap a fresh one in and test. I'll Google up on this and see what I can learn. I have a cheap ($80) Oscilloscope/DMM combo. I understand the limitations the small display has for projecting waves in detail. Also crispy, thank you all the helpful posts you make on here. I've learned a quite a bit from reading replies from you and the other bassheads around here. Cheers

Roger that loud and clear, thanks a lot.

if I remember correctly the SIA is a full bridge amplifier, I don't think the dd1 reads full bridge correctly. something about how the amps work doesn't jive with the dd1. I thought I read something on Facebook about it... idk I could be wrong. now that I'm thinking about it, I don't believe I ever got a clip light when using my dd1 on my SIA3500, although I could for sure hear distortion in the sub

the whole "this voltage is this many watts" is not accurate at all. the best way is to match up wattages with amps and set everything clean. I'd recommend finding a different amp or speakers to better suit the other.

yea, that 12.2 makes my eye twitch a little bit. it's my understanding that the SIA amps are supposed to be ok with lower voltage, but that's getting down there. for sure going to need some electrical upgrades. a second battery will get you by in the meantime. once you get steady voltage I imagine you'll find a clip light with the dd1. for reference, what are your subwoofer and crossover settings look like on the head unit? also how long has it been since you've changed the battery in your dd1?

Could use the DD1+ to get an approximate output voltage to 1000wRMS or no?

It's a 1500wRMS times two, so it will be a bad time I suppose I'll probably wire them down to what 800wRMS per channel at 4 Ohms, thanks a lot!

by rms rating you'll be at 1600 watts for the 8 speakers, so it depends how the amp sends its power out. if it is a 1500 watt amp divided between 2 channels then you'll be right in the butter zone. if the amp is 1500 watts per channel, then you're gonna have a bad time

Getting these mids for my doors, 4 of them on each door https://hertz-audio.com/product/car-audio-midrange-spl_show-sv-200-1/ Pairing a korean 1500x2wRMS @ 1Ω amp, will they be able to take it when tuned to 0dB with a DD1+ and crossed at probably 160Hz with a CC1? Thanks guys

Understood. Second sub, big 3, bigger alt, and new box supplies getting ordered today. I've read (on F150 forums) that these trucks stock alternators handle 3k watts pretty well. test tone from tone generator app - silent to full tilt 30hz 13.04V to 12.86V 40hz 13.04V to 12.9V 50hz 13.04V to 12.2V 60hz 13.04V to 12.25V

You don't run a 2500W amp (specially full bridge) on stock electrical, to test this connect a voltage gauge at your amp power terminals, turn up your volume, if you see that voltage drop as you turn the volume up there is for the most part your problem, the other thing is that every 3dB of gain you need twice the power so at 2000W you will be just barely louder than 1000W and to gainthe same 3dB at 2000W you will need 4000W crazy watts, that is why power is not your first option to get loud, cone area is.

Howdy. I've recently returned to the car audio hobby. I have some fresh equipment (and some old) that seem to be acting weirdly. 2012 F150 4dr 5.0L (Stock - no big three) AGM battery - One that O'Reillys offers for my pickup (I will return and edit with a brand/specs ASAP) Alpine 172BT (purchased 2019) 1x Skar EVL 12 D2 (New) Sundown Audio SIA2500 (New) Wired parallel @ 1ohm Homemade 2.4cu.ft, 32Hz, L shaped slot port, Sub/Port front facing, ~26 sq.in port area, and appropriate port length calculated from WinISD --- Previously was using a Memphis Audio 1500.1PRX to drive the woofer I'm getting consistent and correct ohm/volt readings thru out the truck and audio system. Headunit is clean at 34/35vol, 40hz -0db SMD tone CD. The only time distortion is showing up during gain tuning is when using the 0db or -5db tones. The -10db and -15db tones show zero distortion all the way to max gain (other than the random blips that show up when turning gain). EQs and Filters are all flat/open/full pass/etc. on the HU and the amp. Sky High Audio bass knob at full tilt. My oscilloscope's readings are consistent with my DD-1's readings. The reason I purchased the SIA2500 was, one I hear they're a quality brand(and I should be able to run two 2ohm DVC subs @ 2ohm @ 2500watts in future), and two I assumed my 1500.1PRX was on the way out when it was also reaching max gain without distortion when tuning to -10db and -15db tracks. The sub gets kinda loud, pretty full sound, pretty deep(I keep my SSF around 27-28hz), but at least clean at full tilt on both amps. But after going from 1500watts to 2500watts, I am noticing no change in performance from the sub. No increase in volume, not reaching any deeper with more strength. I've yet to run into this issue with the handful of subs and amps I've used throughout life. I've never reached full gain on any amps in my life yet. If this helps, my Skar 100.4AB (800 watt) 4way is running my door speakers (Skar TX-65s) without distortion. The gains on them are about mid way, more on board with the "usual." I currently have these tuned to the -5db 1k Hz tone. I say this knowing amp/sub components can react differently from unit to unit. So after burning your eyes out with a wall of text - my goal is to make sure this gain setting will continue to be safe for my equipment BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY I feel I am not getting full performance out of this sub and/or amp(s). Thanks for your time. I'll reply ASAP

it usually takes a while for newer cars to have info like that online. if the body and interior didn't change from 2022/23 you might try looking those up as there is a better chance the wiring for those will be online. if you go that route I would take everything you see online with a grain of salt and test, test, test to make sure you have the signals you are looking for. I assume you are needing signal wires for the input. if that's the case, the best and probably the easiest way to get it would be from the factory amplifier. GM likes to shove these in the trunk area usually behind some trim panels near the wheel well. I've seen them on both driver and passenger side of the trunk, so it's your guess which to try first. now you'll need to figure out what speakers on the car actually output the bass, usually on these newer vehicles it's the front 2 doors unless it has a factory sub. if it has a factory sub you'll want that signal. if not grab the 2 with the most bass and tap into them. run them to the 4 pin Molex then it's just power, ground, and bass knob if there is one. you won't need a remote turn on as this has signal sense built in so when it sees signal on the input it turns on. here is some wiring from the12volt for a 2018... it's the newest public info out there for an encore, but that doesn't mean its correct. I make no guarantee on if its right or wrong, just putting it here for easier reference Radio 12V Red/Gray + Radio, gray 20 pin plug, pin 1 Radio Ground Black/White - Radio, gray 20 pin plug, pin 11 Radio Ignition (Low Speed GMLAN) Factory Amp Turn-on (MOST Serial Data) Left Front Speaker (+/-) Blue - Brown/Blue +,- Amplifier near rear wheel well, green 16 pin plug, pins 7 - 15 Right Front Speaker (+/-) Yellow - Yellow/Black +,- Amplifier near rear wheel well, green 16 pin plug, pins 6 - 14 Left Rear Speaker (+/-) Green - Green/Black +,- Amplifier near rear wheel well, green 16 pin plug, pins 5 - 13 Right Rear Speaker (+/-) White - Blue/Black +,- Amplifier near rear wheel well, green 16 pin plug, pins 4 - 12 Subwoofer (+/-) Green/Black - Blue/Gray +,- Amplifier near rear wheel well, gray 8 pin plug, pins 7 - 3 **** copied from the12volt****

Hi everybody, I recently bought a 2024 Buick Encore GX with the Bose system. I’m looking to install this JL Audio sub combo for some bass. I’m lost on wiring it and have already asked crutchfield and they have zero info. https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_13693330/JL-Audio-ACP108LG-W3v3.html i thought some installers could help with a wiring diagram and do I need a jl audio clean sweep. thank you

Make sure to go like the video and comment on the YouTube video - https://youtu.be/I7TZTvmzDcA?si=eloR83MgU6f4Atst

that rockville amp isnt doing you any favors there. on that ticket, neither are the e series subs. its all what i used to sell as entry level. (not the rockville... never that) the list i sent you would be worlds louder than anything those e subs can do