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  1. No one answer. There's a lot of interplay depending on what you want to do. It's like buying a car, and asking what the most important feature is. Short answers: - Power handling appropriate for your needs - QTS for ported / sealed applications. Lower QTS is more appropriate for a ported box, higher for sealed. But don't get too hung up on this because there's a litany of exceptions and install dependent variables. Just know it exists. - xmax has an interplay here, but is not the sole decider. Subwoofer drivers need to displace a sizable quantity of air. All other factors equal, you can displace more air wit a driver that has a higher xmax. Again, don't get too hung up about it. - Higher impedance results in higher damping factor from the amp. i.e. the amplifiers ability to mechanically brake the inertia of a cone when the signal stops Anecdotally... And I have no data to back this up outside of some small-sample-size personal observations.... But for daily builds: I like drivers that have a very high BL^2/RE (motor force) for a given amount of cone area, with the lowest impedance coils I could possibly find (I simp for 0.35 coils), with stiff suspension, in a medium to larger box tuned fairly low with a medium to low amount of port area. Not the loudest enclosure, but they've always given me a rather ridiculous response range(think from 15-17hz up to 50-60+) with no muddiness / odd resonances, or issues with transient response / group delay artifacts. TL;DR: Don't sweat individual specs. Just buy a driver from a reputable company that'll handle the power you need to throw at it, then make a box to suit your needs. Pay mind if the manufacturer indicates the driver is intended for sealed or ported use.
    2 points
  2. Your terminations give me anxiety...... More amp overhead is always good. But... There's 2 things to be mindful of with it. 1. You need to be very careful with volume and gain so you don't push into mechanical limits. 2. There's a cost argument. With that said... I've wired an 8k to a kicker comp back in the day. Never ran into an issue, but I was careful with it. Can push equipment pretty hard with a clean signal, but there will also be no forgiveness if your fingers slip on the volume.
    2 points
  3. - Honestly, you don't need a kit. You just need wires, ring terminals, fuse. Fuse should be placed on any positive wires coming off the battery, as close to the battery as is practical. - How do you know you're not clipping? - You might have better luck with 2 subs in a single box, as opposed to 2 smaller boxes - Be mindful of your voltage drops
    2 points
  4. im going to go with this receiver for three sets of outputs. And time alignment and crossover settings. Pioneer MVH-S522BS
    2 points
  5. Ideally you want a a single sub to handle 2000-2500 rms or 2 subs to handle 2000-2500 rms in total (if you want to be safe) . I have run the Smart 3 on a few set ups and it was running about 2200-2500 rms at 2.5/2.7 ohms after impedance rise.
    2 points
  6. Those are some lights!
    1 point
  7. Put some lights on the bike and wired right to the battery. Hated dicking around with rechargeable schitt. Funny thing is: These were 27 bucks.... The rechargable handlebar mount thing I had on there before was 55... Also a MUCH needed brake upgrade thanks to a VERY good friend. The OG brakes sort of.... Ate the dust yesterday
    1 point
  8. All I have time for today only thing left is cutting the sub and port holes and the brace holes and gluing and screwing
    1 point
  9. 250/300 is fine if you're using 0ga OFC. I'd suggest getting tinned copper / marine grade wire for under hood use. Will hold up better in the long term. Gain value is... irrelevant. It's a ratio of input to output voltage. 5% or 95% makes no difference - the goal is to scale RCA voltage to output voltage. Wherever that value lands, is where you want it to be. Mind that there are 2 sources of user induced clipping here: One on the radio, and another on the amp. And they are additive. Some clipping on radio plus some clipping on amp = a lot of clipping sent to your drivers. No bueno.
    1 point
  10. The D2 means dual 2 ohm. Meaning you can wire a single sub to either 4 ohm, or 1 ohm. I'm not 100% sure what that 1/4 is as well. I'll look into it
    1 point
  11. I've read some horror stories on the singer hight 10, but all the rest of the equipment seems quality! That should sound really nice when it's all done
    1 point
  12. I looked at them today and they are surprisingly cheap! I may go that route.
    1 point
  13. 1 point
  14. Also, the slightly less dirty way to set gains with DMM, though dd-1/oscope is still preferred: Play a square wave through the amp at max volume / max gain. Measure voltage. Convert peak to peak voltage you just measured to RMS, divide by sqrt(2) Play sine wave and turn the gain to the voltage you just calculated
    1 point
  15. Two Gigantic 33" Subs...in the HOUSE! Almost didn't fit through the door!
    1 point
  16. So tried a couple different tunes using a 40hz -5db tone. First one with everything off on head unit and eq flat, sub level output on hu at 5, lc1 at full, volume at 30, subsonic filter off, bass boost off lpf at 80. Outcome was too quiet not enough bass. Sounded really light and flat sounding I guess I’d call it. So I tuned again Second tune sub level output on 5, bass knob at half volume at 27, subsonic at 20, lpf at 80hz, eq flat, loudness off. Sounds great. Listening to hip hop with this tune allows me to adjust a little if need be. I can turn down the sub level output if need be and turn up the lc1 according to the clip light. Also the reason I did volume at 27 on the second tune is because of the 4 channel amp, there is no way I’d come close to 30 on volume or at least being able to listen to it that loud. It’s just too loud for my ears at that volume. The max I usually listen to it would be between 22-24 and it’s screaming. The 4 channel amp is barely even turned up to maybe a 1/4 as far as gain. That little amp pumps out some power. My door speakers are loud speakers and I have different a pillar pods than have 1 inch tweeters that face at me instead of the windshield.
    1 point
  17. Very My quick little upgrade is turning into a giant headache
    1 point
  18. You would wire the subs like thisfor a final 2 ohm load into the amp
    1 point
  19. An 8" port should be about 27.5" long to tune 2.0 cu ft to 45 Hz. As with all bandpass boxes I suggest making the port removable so the tuning can be adjusted after the box is playing. Bandpass boxes can be fickle things. As far as the layout goes, that's always the hardest part with these things. You may have to go with a slot port just so you can put bends in it to get the length you need.
    1 point
  20. Sounds good, door gets more flex with different songs. With the lithium i hardly see below 13.8. Normally it sits about 14.2 on heavy bass songs.
    1 point
  21. Uuuuuhhhh! Flexing!!!!! How does it sound inside?
    1 point
  22. 1 point
  23. Chassis to engine block I did mine right to the alternator bracket and battery to chassis and positive battery to positive alternator
    1 point
  24. Without me having to do a lot of clicking on links, what subs are they? Dual 2 ohm? Dual 4 ohm? Single voice coil? And what make and model amplifier is it? What is it stable down to? 1 ohm? 2 ohm? I don't mean to be rude, but rule number 1 on the internet.... don't click on unknown links
    1 point
  25. So the speaker wire is 12 ga knukonceptz. I just got home and hardwired them directly to the amp bypassing any terminals. I also grinding down the paint on myground location and secured it with proper nuts and bolts and washers. It is maybe 5% louder than before and clearly something is still wrong I have yet to have the time to mess around with the dmm. That will have to be tomorrow. What size inline fuse should i be using? The website says 100 but my last, much older and less powerful amp was running with a 200a inline fuse. Could this be my issue?
    1 point
  26. I bought a 2400 watt speaker and amp setup that Skar advertised as a pair except Skar Audio only sent me a 1200 watt pair ! I got the equipment installed by a pro and a few months later 1 speaker failed. I inquired about my warranty and Skar told me to send the equipment back at my cost ($150.00) and send a return shipping label ($150.00) costing me a total of $300.00 when I bought the entire set-up for $299.00 ! They use that tactical maneuver to get out of warranting defective equipment. After inquiring about my warranty I found out from the company that installed it that Skar only sent me a 1200 watt system not what I ordered so I brought this to their attention and they tried hustling me by saying it is capable of 2400 watt Advertised 2400 and no warranty not exchange on the correct equipment nothing from Skar Audio except hung up on. I posted the same review on Skar Audio's website but it doesn't appear so they are picking and choosing reviews on their page so they look good ! Once again a con game I will make sure to never let anyone buy from Skar Audio again taking me for $299.00
    1 point
  27. Well, like I said, people say 1 remote wire can handle 4 amps. Don't quote me on that because I've never done it. It I have 2 amps (which I've always had at least 2) I've always used a relay.
    1 point
  28. Awesome thanks man. I’ll give it another try when I get home tonight. I listen to hip hop and rock. Switch back and fourth between the two. I’ve tried to set gain using a dmm but on the taramps it doesn’t read right. So I just use the clip light. My head unit saves all the values when I unhook the radio or the battery. I didn’t think it did but it does. I appreciate your help and I’ll post back after I get the chance to re tune.
    1 point
  29. Never mind, I looked (sorry, I was being lazy lol) you would take the sub out RCA's and you can do 1 of 2 things, if you look at the RCA's on that Smart amp, one says in, one says out. You can send the RCA's back and insert one end into each inon the amp. Or, you can send the RCA into a 2 female to 1 male Y aadapter, plug that into the in on 1 amp, then with another Y adapter, plug that into the out, into a set of RCA's, then plug both those into the in and out of the other amp. I hope that made sense
    1 point
  30. So you have a speaker terminal for each sub? So 2 speaker terminals? In that case, for the amplifier to see a final 2 ohm load, you would wire each like this so each would have a final 4 ohm loadand then once you hook each sub up to their respective speaker terminals in the amp, the amp would see a final 2 ohm load.
    1 point
  31. What sub amps are you using again? Sorry, I forgot. And as far as the remote wire, people say 1 12v remote wire can handle up to 4 amplifiers, but I always use a relay.
    1 point
  32. I crunched some number is Win ISD real quick. I'd shoot for 1.2 cu feet sealed and about 2 cu ft ported size tuned to 45 Hz. 40 sq in of port area would be the minimum and 50 would be even better. This is going to make for a fairly long port though so fitting everything in the space you have available is going to be the challenge.
    1 point
  33. What size speaker wire is that going to your sub? It looks really small. That also can be choking the power. Make sure your head unit isn't using any crossovers that might have accidentally been set wrong by accident. After you set your gains with that DMM, slap for a minute and check your voltage at your amplifier. Make sure you're not drawing too much power and dipping to low in voltage. It doesn't look like you cleaned the paint off that ground at all. Also, a bolt and washers will make that ground way tighter, thus a better conductor. I didn't read you did, but if you haven't, do the big 3 upgrade. And however you usually play music, play your test tone through that, through the head unit. Both at about 3/4 volume to make sure you're not sending distortion from either the head unit or the source unit.
    1 point
  34. Ok, thank you so much. I will be stopping at Menards tomorrow after work to get a DMM and ring terminals and I will try everything you have suggested and I will let you know!
    1 point
  35. As far as the mids and highs go, I'd set the HPF at about 100 hz, and that's it. Set your gains with a DD-1 (best), an oscilloscope (good), or digital multimeter (better than nothing). There are videos on YouTube that will teach you how. I'm not going to tell you to get rid of the caps, but I've never had good luck with them. I would just keep the subs flush personally, but you can invert them and see which sound you like better. If you invert them, just make sure you wire them 180 degrees out of phase. I'm not quite following how you wired the subs. Are you connecting both subs to a single quick connect? Or does each woofer have its own?
    1 point
  36. Makes it easy to upgrade anything though. Can't fault them for that lol
    1 point
  37. Dodge has ridiculous stock alternators. I've seen a 65 amp alternator in a prius handle more wattage no problem. My stock alternator in my pickup, which is the same one he has, was pushing a little over 1000 watts back in the day. Granted, not clamped but total, but still.
    1 point
  38. Do the big 3 and you should have better car results and there's nothing wrong with it as long as it's distortion free
    1 point
  39. NeB....I will check my ohms on my grounds as well thanks man and all I did to seal my trunk was use alot of dynamat and gorilla tape oh and a little bit of spray foam the box is pretty much built as wide as the trunk width from inside the car
    1 point
  40. You've gotta love when that happens. Sorry about that bud
    1 point
  41. If the amp is shutting off, it's hitting some sort of protection. 3 things to check. And that means actually check it - don't assume anything is good 1. Low voltage protection on input. Check voltage at the amp when the issue occurs. Literally, put a DMM or voltage gauge into the input on the amp with the power wire. Measuring it anywhere else will tell you nothing. 2. Over-current protection on the output. Either you're wired differently than you think / too low, or there's something shorting out. Verify your wiring to the subs in a quiet, wind-free area is the DCR you expect. 3. Verify that the voltage of your turn on wire isn't dipping and telling the amp to turn off. This would also be checked at the terminals on the amplifier.
    1 point
  42. It only happens with the 8k my 4 ch stays on, my voltage doesn't drop much at full tilt drops to 13.4 and I have the amp is at 1ohm I've double check every connection coukd be ground location as well im going to try grounding in a different location. I think I know what it might be just from looking at the picture I noticed something that might be affecting the amp if you look at the right side of the trunk the strong arm drops pretty low I think that it could be pulling the power wires connected to the amp im going to do see if that's what it is. But DAMN I'm very happy how well the zv5's handle this power they barely get hot thanks for the reply man
    1 point
  43. I didn't know B2 had their own line of lithium batteries.... Anyway, even though you should have enough electrical, I would have a voltage meter inside the vehicle with me, taking voltage at the amplifier, to make sure the voltage isn't the issue. Other than that, I would check every single connection for anything possibly being loose. Battery terminals, fuse bolts, connections into the amp, everything. Does this only happen with the 8k? Or does it happen to your 4 channel as well? What impedance are you running at and have you double checked it with a multimeter since you've been having the problem?
    1 point
  44. E Series 400 Amp Dark Blue Billet GM Truck - Mechman Alternators 400 amp Elite series alternator for 88-95 GM Truck (Dark Blue) - Mechman Alternators
    1 point


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