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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/29/22 in all areas

  1. More slow progress.. -Molded the beauty panel into the Cpillar with "kitty hair" & wrapped in suede- 1st time using the stuff, wayyy better than bondo - built amp rack as 1 piece, painted with krylon stone spray paint... yeahhh, I know I took the easy route but no way was I gonna be able to wrap it successfully - started lithium rack in the rear, 80ah & 500 farad on each side, big distro in the middle
    2 points
  2. SQL (Sound Quality Loud) system demo's in the driveway Cadillac Escalade with 6 12" Subs
    1 point
  3. Yeah I have 2 many subs laying around to try any lol 2 C.V. And 4 lvl3’s 12’s lol nothing to put them in but the C.V’s nostalgia build
    1 point
  4. I've always been in love with the FI team series subs. They also have the new MT line that looks good as well
    1 point
  5. Why not go to him then?.. but the F.I 4.9 looks nice I want to try one someday
    1 point
  6. 1 point
  7. Spent the last few weeks changing radiator hoses, stripping/gutting the interior, scrubbing all the old glue and padding out, and now rubberizing the entire floor. Still have a lot to go then on to thermal barrier and sound deadener. Then relocating the battery to the trunk, residing the entire car, laying down carpet, and custom fitting/installing new seats.
    1 point
  8. Best 8’s you can buy but Sundown , DC , Gatley Audio, also make great subs.
    1 point
  9. Wasn’t me, go read archive on ecoustics and damn can’t remember the other forum he is still a douchebag wouldn’t deal with him then won’t now, and you aren’t paying 450 for the same not even close, is that what he told you?.. he’s bias as shit with his stuff do you wonder why his shit ain’t winning in the lanes? One of the videos he was bashing a brand and wasn’t even the right people with those brands he’s so full of shit ..
    1 point
  10. He'd be wasting his $$ em audio is trash and is run by a complete clown man
    1 point
  11. Honestly I hate those things. MDF doesn't lend itself well to inserts of any sort. If you want threads, the best way to do it would be to laser out some rings from sheet steel, drill and tap those, bolt that to the back side of your baffle, then secure the driver to that. Barring that, the screws I've had the best luck with are some spax #8 multi material construction screws.
    1 point
  12. 1 point
  13. I'm afraid to tell you my 4 - 8" subwoofer meter. 148.9 @ 31 hz. with 4 VFL 8's on a Sundown SIA3500. 4 8's can get loud and still bang low. I wouldn't combine different kinds of ports. To really compete with a crew cab you might have to delete the backseat or go with a blow through.
    1 point
  14. All done all she needs is some sanding and paint
    1 point
  15. Just gotta put the top on and paint it and I'm done with the box
    1 point
  16. 1 point
  17. Now I need to hurry up and build this box
    1 point
  18. It’s simply jammed between the box and the side of the trunk. Double sided tape & I slid the box over to the right to jam the battery in then I sealed the box in place. It ain’t moving. Maybe in a roll over crash it can go flying but even still the 4x1/0 wire isn’t going to let it go far, other than that it’s stuck. The XSPower D975 is not that big nor is it chunky. It’s like maybe the size of 3 6volt batteries. 7.83x5.53x6.67 https://4xspower.com/Wattage-Chart.pdf I will take better pictures. You can see the black edge of the box pushing on the battery mid-way. The wood you see behind the battery is like 5 inches back. Weird illusion.
    1 point
  19. Here is the Birth Sheet. My Underground Power 40ah lithium is normally sitting at 14.72v. You are correct, this will put out more power. I have a AMM-1 but i either hooked it up wrong or there may be a defect. I wanted to use the AMM-1 to check dyno power. This way I can see what’s going on. In the image you can see the leads are not connected, but when I was testing…. I ran the positive lead to positive amp input and the same for the negative. Negative lead to amp ground on the amp input.
    1 point
  20. What’s crackin’ yo! Here is part one of what I have completed so far on this Yukon. The box is a GP high output XL glue-it-and-screw-it tuned to 31hz. Internal bracing was radiused and sanded before I installed them. The triple baffle was built in layers, countersunk, glued and screwed with Spax hardware. It was then fit up to the Evil 15’s and thru holes drilled to accommodate the 1/4-20 threaded inserts. This way the subs are bolted in. Baby Yoda added for force! Any feedback or input is welcome! :]
    1 point
  21. Thanks Defaseles! I 100% agree with you on that mentality of wanting the slap but ignoring or hand waving away the fundamentals like power wire, high end batteries and alternators. I'm with you on Kicker as well. I've not been a kicker fan since the mid 90s. I will say that those Q Class sounded better than I expected, but they wouldn't have been my first choice. The amps were ok, but no strapping option and the loss of pairing with the wireless bass knob give me pause. Brands like Kicker and Rockford spend lots of money buying brand recognition in the mainstream market. That's not to say they don't have some quality products, but I shudder a little every time I see a 10" Kicker sub on the shelf at a Wal Mart. That said, I understand they are trying to capture as wide a segment of the market as they can and I guess there is a lot of money to be made selling a sub $100 dollar woofer at Wal Marts. Personally, I prefer brands that nobody outside of enthusiast circles have heard of and am especially attracted to boutique manufacturers and start sporting visible excitement for brands that are hand crafted here in the US (or even other countries, the DD AW65s I so thoroughly love were hand built in a small village in Germany but alas, DD discontinued them). As for that price point in the Bay area, I knew prices were pretty outlandish out there (I've turned down a few day-job offers out there over the years due to cost of living) but that is a crazy lot of money! I'll wait to see if anybody else on the forum wants to kick in what they think a fair price for the build would be where they live, but suffice to say it was a fraction of that. I ended up doing the install on the good-ol-boy system, I wanted to make sure it went in well and got tuned properly to give it the best chance of not clipping the woofers to death, but that's on me. For whatever reason, I have a hard time charging people for things like that, something I need to get better about LoL. As for the CNC, I love it man. I'm trying to work my way into working for myself so I can use it every day but that's an entirely different topic for (hopefully) another day. Do you have access to a makerspace out there in SF? I know a lot of them (makerspaces) have CNC routers and lasers, might be a way to get access to the equipment without the cost and overhead of having the machine and a place to put it.
    1 point
  22. First off, that's a really nice box! Not a fan of kicker too much, but you knocked the design and look out of the park! Good job. Wish I had access to a machine lol. Make my install a lot easier lol. But no, looks amazing. Everything you've posted has been pretty damn cool! Second, no offense to the owner, but I can't stand it when people say they want a crap ton of slap, buy expensive products (which, if he would have gone with a different brand for 4 1000 watt subs, he'd have enough money left over for OFC and probably an alternator) and then, when you tell them what the cost is to actually run that equipment safely and properly, they don't have the money. It's not in the budget. Oh it'll be fine. Still slaps. Sorry, but that just rubs me the wrong way. Third, I live in California, more specifically the San Francisco Bay area, where everything is a retarded level of expensive, for that enclosure and install (not even counting the equipment) I'd be spending somewhere around $6,000 to $7,500 from a mediocre shop, more than that from a legit installer with a great reputation. Again though man, if you can make kicker subs look cool, you did something short of a miracle. Good job!
    1 point
  23. Also - I have some video of the build I was sharing with the customer along the way. If you guys are interested I can edit it a bit and upload it here. I think some of the video covers the wiring of the amp rack better.
    1 point
  24. Install day: Here are the only 2 shots I got on install day: You can kind of get a better picture of the rack wiring in this shot: The truck has 2 led-acid batteries under the hood but he is still rocking the stock alternator. We tuned everything with the SMD CC-1 and DD-1. There is a double-run of 0 gauge CCA power wire (1 run for each amp). I don't like CCA and strongly suggested he go back and run OFC - but again - budget constraints. During tuning and test bumping, his voltage was dipping below 12 volts (which was causing the amps to go into protect) I have been urging him to go with at least 1 HO alternator (or maybe even 2) but he has been focusing all his mad money on mechanical / engine upgrades. Every time we talk I remind him that he's leaving power and output on the table by not upgrading his alt, we'll see if he pulls the trigger on it. He hasn't upgraded to OFC runs yet, I think he's planning to do that before he does an alternator. Another note worth mentioning. The bass knob for those KXA amplifiers are wireless and you can pair multiple amps to a single knob. Several months after the install, the system output dropped dramatically and he said it sounded like it was out of phase and observed that two of the subs weren't moving anywhere near as much as the other two. He brought it by the shop for a troubleshooting session and (luckily) we noticed that the knob had lost it's pairing with one of the amplifiers. We re-paired the remote to both amps and re-tuned with the DD-1 for good measure and he was back to where we started on install day. Overall I was pretty happy how this one came out and the customer was ecstatic with the end result. Let me know what you guys think and what you would have done differently!
    1 point
  25. Amp rack build: The amp rack bolts onto the back of the sub enclosure. We didn't have a lot of options for a more involved amp rack (again due to budget constraint) so I did my best to decouple the rack from the enclosure using pretty big/thick rubber feet. The feet I used are marketed for PA speaker feet. Here are the initial CAD renderings of the amplifier rack: Here are some shots of mocking up the rack and playing around with amplifier placement and wiring routing. The window gets an acrylic window, but it didn't go in until after the whole thing was installed in the truck to minimize chances of scratching it: Here you can see some recesses I cut into the back of the amp rack for some red LEDs to cast a glow back between the rack and the enclosure. You can also see the registration points for the rubber isolation stand-offs and two of the fan ports: Here is starting to wire up the rack after the fans are mounted with some wire mesh fan grates/grills. The rack got a total of 4 BeQuiet 80mm fans. 2 Fans draw air into the amp rack on the low side, the other two exhaust air out at the high side of the box. Thinking being that heat rises. He's been rolling with the setup for a while now and hasn't had an issue with thermal protect as of yet. I really like the BeQuiet fans, as the name implies they are almost silent, but still manage to move a reasonable amount of air for their size/noise output. You can also see that I had to widen the mounting holes in the rack to give some adjustability. That goes back to the fact that I was still dialing in/fine tuning the tolerances on the CNC: Here are a few shots of the rack as it's near completion: You can see the red LED strips here: The removable face of the rack has white LEDs to illuminate the rack as well, but I can't find a picture of it with the LEDs installed off the rack: Here are some shots of the amplifier rack mounted on the enclosure: So the amp rack uses a 3-pin quick disconnect pigtail where B+, ground and the remote turn-on lead come in. From there it has a relay that provides more current to run the fans, LEDs and turn-on leads for the amplifiers. There are 2 toggle switches in the top of the rack. One of them switches a small bus bar where the bass amp turn on leads are wired, that way he can flip a switch to turn off the amps. The other toggles the LED lights. I left enough room between the 2 bass amps for a mids & highs amp he wants to install later. That's right, he has 4 Q-Class L7 12" subs on 3200 watts RMS and the front stage is run off deck power. This guy is a true bass-head. Next post will be the only 2 shots I got on install day.
    1 point
  26. Box build Here are some cad renders that served as a starting point: The CAD renders were part of a quote/proposal. Once the customer had given the build a green light and paid the deposit I got to work. I was able to convince him that going with 2 ported chambers rather than each sub having it's own chamber/port wouldn't loose any output or fidelity making the build a lot more straight forward. Here is a sketch I texted him while we were finalizing the design: Here are some shots of some of the first pieces being cut on the CNC: Here is the trim ring that went on the top of the enclosure: And the accent piece for the top of the box: Here is a shot of the enclosure coming together with threaded inserts locked in place using CA glue: Here is a shot of the back of the enclosure with recesses and mounting holes for the heavy rubber feet I used to isolate the amp rack from the enclosure along with the holes and markings for the speaker lead connection: Here is a shot of mounting the front with the big Kicker logo. I was still dialing in the CNC's calibrations and so this side of the box was cut a little over-sized so I could use a flush trim bit to dial it in: Here are a few more shots of the front wall of the enclosure. Originally I was rattle canning the logo, but for some reason that I'm still not sure what was, along about the 3rd coat (same can as the previous coat even) it wrinkled horribly so I ended up sanding it again and flooded it with acrylic paint using a torch to pop bubbles (similar to using epoxy). It ended up taking DAYS to fully dry/cure enough that I wasn't worried it would get dented/nicked from handling: Here are a couple of shots with the base enclosure assembled. The acrylic paint flood of the big kicker logo cured out with a slight textured look, but IMO it looked pretty good that way and it's something I would consider doing again in the future (it just takes a lot of time): In this shot, you can see some of the internal bracing... Finally on to the finish work proper: I ended up having to sand and re-shoot the top. I masked too far over and you could see bare MDF peeking out around the subs... We went with a roll-on DuraTex finish. It has a similar finish and texture as bed liner but it's less expensive and we were budget constrained on this project. The good news is that it was a lot easier to carefully roll on the finish making masking a lot easier than when you shoot something like Raptor liner: A bit of an idea of the size... Here are a couple of shots of the accent piece that went on the center of the top baffle: I went with about 3ish (a little more in some places) coats of the DuraTex and overall I think the texture and finish came out well and the customer was pleased with the final result. In the next post, I'll run through the amp rack build!
    1 point
  27. These things are huge So running these will require some modifications to my existing speaker rings. The idea. Sandwich rings with PL. Route the holes. Need more clamps! Even needed one for the tweeter Bit of duraglass to fill the void around the rings Its slow progress but at least its some.
    1 point
  28. Hey, i just recently began basic audio upgrades in my 2000 dodge neon and your build is definitely inspiring me and i have already made plenty mental notes on how to setup everything based on your experience. Thanks for sharing and keep up the great work! as others have said, its really nice to see the level of skill and craftsmanship improve over the life of this project and i hope that i might have the time and resources available to grow my skills the same way you did!
    1 point
  29. Is there any reasonably priced box designers out there?? I'm only looking to design a few so I don't want to spend $250 on something incredibly bad ass that won't get used too often.
    1 point
  30. Since I bought one and worked with him I guess. My experience has been good idk why you didn't hit it off with him. How did you blow your sub? Did you run the clean rms he recommended on a quality amp? He speaks the truth and shows all these big brands are screwing people over. Idk man you can pay 2k for a 15 that says psi if you want ... I'd rather pay 450 for the same.
    0 points
  31. He is totally legit. Yes he can take months to BUILD the sub and get it to you but it WILL come. I lOVE my 4x4 15in its better then my 4 l7 10ins I had before. Patience is a virtue my friend. He is just one guy that makes everything by hand. If you have the time I assure you that you will love it/them.
    0 points
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