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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/15/20 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I absolutely love my new setup, all most complete. Still love how low it plays
  2. 2 points
    My worst fear about mounting my subs has been the drill slipping & hitting the surround. I introduce to you my friends The Speaker Saver! Made from cast aluminum this product comes with a lifetime limited warranty. It promises to protect your rubber surround while you drill your pilot holes. Not only am I the president but I am also a client. It’s just a cheap pan from Walmart, good day people!!
  3. 2 points
    That enclosure you have now looks good. Custom built. Don’t buy a prefab enclosure. Them prefab enclosures that are built to specs on certain subwoofers seem like the way to go, but them subwoofer enclosure recommendations aren’t always correct and they don’t factor in rms or cabin area. And most subwoofer enclosure recommendations don’t even correctly factor in the t/s parameters when it comes to the enclosure recommendations. Now when a company has minimal information about what the customer is gonna do with a product then they recommend something average and safe, no matter the factors, in regards said product. So that leaves too many variables unattended to. That’s why it is ALWAYS best to get a subwoofer enclosure designed and built according to you vehicle and car audio system.
  4. 2 points
    Thats comparing apples to oranges there. The last DDs i had were the very lowest level subs they sell, the 200 series 10" subs, in that case YES, the 12" sundowns were better, BUT i have also used the DD 3512s, and they are much better than the sundown SA series.... It really depends on the series of woofers you choose for each brand. I will say you will get more bang for your buck with sundown. DD is very expensive to get their top of the line woofers. Sundown aint exactly cheap, but compared to DD it is a good bargain.
  5. 2 points
    I might look like an idiot... but I'm not going to front...I might have to use this technique
  6. 2 points
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
  9. 2 points
    Updated progress on box Needing to figure out how to best upload my progress images on here.
  10. 2 points
    That engine is such a beauty. I also love the idea of the sun-glass holder. I'm going to steal this idea for a fan rocker switch. Cheers!
  11. 2 points
    Remember when I showed you the doors? This was the plan. Check it out before it gets upholstery.
  12. 1 point
    A big one would work with any size subwoofer or surround. It would just have to be positioned correctly each section.
  13. 1 point
    @Taxed1 that’s a smart idea and it can double as a bass recipe, over easy, for sure. @MG88 i like your idea too. y’all are some smart bass heads. But when you do so much bass’n like I did, then your brain cells tap out and get out the vehicle lol!
  14. 1 point
    After 7 years of daily abuse, my dd3515 (1st Gen) dvc 2ohm finally gave out. Got the big 3, system is running on a stinger power2 battery. Amp is an arc audio ks 2500.1, 1ohm stable. Called digital design customer service and im able to get it repaired for half the price of a brand new one. But i wanted to try something new. Im debating between sundown audio and dc audio. Havent heard any of those subs in person but im sure you guys all have. Currently debating on sundown u series and dc audio lvl 3’s. Whats you fellow bassheads experience with how they sound. Planning to use the same box.
  15. 1 point
    Do you have the particular pan item numbers for the different size of woofers? Haha And do you prefer aluminum over cast iron on a high roll surround? Lol!!!!!
  16. 1 point
    I agree with 1.21giga. Even the pre/pro fab from D4S for a single 15 is 300 bucks.... For that price you can get a box custom built... And for that SUV, i would go with Sub up and port back to the rear if you had the room for it. But using your current box is a possibility... But i would not be surprised if that enclosure is tuned a bit high if it was custom built for that 3515 by someone that had experience with the older non ESP DD subs... Back in the day is was very common to tune boxes for those subs around 40hz. And they worked in a WIDE range of sizes... Even the newer 15s are listed from 3-6 cubes per sub... Thats a BIG variance. Not all subs work well in that big of a variance. Its always best to have a box built for the sub and vehicle it will be in... But in order to pick the perfect sub for that box we would need to know tuning, port volume, and net volume. If you have any tools and experience working with wood you could likely build you own. 1.21 is great at designing boxes and if you sweet talk him he may help you out if he has the time. If not, there are a lot of builders that sell plans, designs, made for your vehicle, sub, and power. There is also builders that sell flat pack/ glue and screw boxes... Meaning you order a box that comes with the wood all precut and you just assemble it, which makes the price cheaper than a built box and reduces shipping charges... Or you could order a completely built box.
  17. 1 point
    Thanks for that suggestion. I'll probably do that later on tonight. I have a ton of pics and I just can't attach them here cause of the size limits.
  18. 1 point
    I upload my pictures to something I can get on my phone like Instagram, tumbler, Reddit. Then get on the computer and copy the link to each photo and paste it in here Btw that box looks sick, I love the comic book look
  19. 1 point
    If I'm not mistaken, which I could be, I think the mechman alternators have an internal regulator. I don't THINK my truck has/ needed an external regulator. I could absolutely be wrong though. Maybe someone with more knowledge in this can chime in and help with that question?
  20. 1 point
    I don't know if mine did. I had it installed. I would assume I did though. What I have read is to measure the difference in the diameters if the old alternator pulley and the new alternator pulley. Usually it's about 1/2" to a full inch.
  21. 1 point
    You would divide by the lowest voltage you see at full draw. That will give you closer to your peak amperage then dividing by your average or charging voltage. When voltage goes down, amps go up. Amperage = heat. Hints why fuses are based on amps instead of volts. Hope this helps some.
  22. 1 point
    I ran the 3512 1st Gen as well back 15 years ago. Great subs. That being said... After paying for shipping there and back plus half the price of new... You could buy a different sub probably just as good brand new. I've ran Sundown SA series, good subs. The U series are like their big brother. Handle more power but the same sound and same enclosure recommendations. Your enclosure will dictate what sub will be best... The enclosure could be considered the most important part of any system... A great sub in the wrong box will sound bad... But even bad subs can sound good in the perfect box.
  23. 1 point
    What’s the specs on that enclosure?
  24. 1 point
    So, the nice thing about those Taramps smart 3 amps is it does rated at 1 ohm and 2 ohm. 3235 @1 ohm, 3179 @2 ohm, and [email protected] 4 ohm. So honestly, if you use 1 amp until you can upgrade the electrical, those subs won't be starving too much.
  25. 1 point
    And if the rms of the sub is 100, 1000, or 5000 watts, you hook it up to a 3000 watt amp, that sub it's going to see the rms of that amp at whatever ohm load it's playing at at the time
  26. 1 point
    well before you do anything you need to get the electrical to back up 4k if you dont do that the nice equipment that you have is going to go poof in smoke
  27. 1 point
    Did you use a different name on the forum to send Steve a private message? Because your current account comes up with nothing at all.
  28. 1 point
    Working with 1.2Giga, and he’s a solid dude and tons of help. Narrowed it down to adding another DC 12” lvl 4 12, 1500rms. Gonna wire the 2 2ohm DVC in series, with a taramps 5000.1 2ohm amp, mounted on the rear wall behind the 40 side driver seat. Putting them in a “vented” fox acoustics box, which just has openings not actual ports, so I’m considering plugging them off. 1 run of 1/0 from front battery to (somewhere mounted) shuriken bt-80 battery. Will have dual 1/0 runs from it, into the amp, and dual grounds from the amp. I’m looking for any hints/tips/tricks from installers, I’m thinking an smd dual fuse block for the dual runs in the back. Anything else I’m missing?
  29. 1 point
    idk anything about sundown so excuse me if im outta line but wouldnt u want like crescendo c1100.4 or something heavy duty on 8 pro audio drivers? Im running mono taramps hd3k on eight 6.5" 4ohm mids and i gotta be careful its still alot of power.
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    i have some 6.5" pro ds18 bullet style and they a wayyy brighter sounding than your standard pro audio mid. BAD part about ds18 is the weird cutout sizes. If you wanna switch brands good luck with that 5.25 cutout fitting anything else but a 6" ds18, unless u stick with their 6.5" lines. PRV is some LOUD stuff but it gets expensive real quick. Ive seen 8000 watts ran on two doors with a couple PRV speakers and that shit was unreal. Brazilians are taking over our shows LOL try demoing with a 20,000watt brazil trunk open next 2u.
  32. 1 point
    I did say prv but I can’t make a decision if I don’t know which speaker you are comparing so I can look at the t/s parameters. And what kind of amp or rms are you wanting to apply?
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    thats some of them new loud and fancy 2way pro audio comp set hybrid speakers i been seein pop up lately. not at shows just online forsale. I dunno ive always heard bad things about the sound of a 6.5" with a tweeter sticking out the middle. to each their own i spose, could be amazing new technology that sounds like gold. the basket alone makes me wanna hear em
  35. 1 point
    Sweet! I work construction so trust me, I know all about PPE. Not a whole lot about engines and cars though. I love to look at them, but the mechanicals I left to my friends... I'm the audio consultant of the group lol. My cousin (the fabricator of the group) is going to help me with my build...I don't need my sunglasses holder... but I'm thinking if I can actually still use the flip feature for night driving with my wife... she'll probably complain about the lights from the gauges.... you gave me a sweet idea man! KEEP WITH THE EDUCATION MAN! It's always a good thing! Even if it's just as a hobie
  36. 1 point
    Changed plans! Adding another smart 3 instead.... anyone have 2 amps, with a universal bass knob on the first amp? Will it control both amps?
  37. 1 point
    alright thanks man
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Ok will try and let you guy know..
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Check the impedance on the speaker’s voice coil terminal with a dmm.
  42. 1 point
    You have to put that agm battery back in that circuit after charging it because you need the reserve to maintain current draw and voltage stability. If that battery isn’t charged and in that circuit then your voltage isn’t gonna be stable and keep dipping and your front battery is gonna get discharged because of excessive current draw. So charge your front battery too. Charge both them batteries and you are gonna see improvement. Then to add some extra voltage to any internally regulated alternator like the one you have, just watch this video.
  43. 1 point
    I was told by someone who talked to someone at Incriminator Audio about their IA30.1 which also has dual inputs and calls for a 400 amp fuse. What I was told was if you're using a fused distribution block, 2 200 amp fuses would work. If you're using an unfused distro block, use a 400 amp fuse before the block for a single amp. I would assume the BC-4k would be the same deal
  44. 1 point
    @Dwn4BassAlan yea hes cool too. goes for hours with a backseat still, and everyone can get a demo. shot this today im going vid crazy because the snow is coming.
  45. 1 point
    Not finished yet, but the alternator Came in
  46. 1 point
    Took advantage of labor day sales and snagged some more needed pieces. Slowly but surely, picking up all the pieces I need. I'm itching to start!
  47. 1 point
    I probably run it the least, but the slash is my favorite car. Most likely because it was my first hah. Jumping and running head on into immovable objects are the 2 quickest ways to break stuff, but also the funnest ways! I rarely break something from flips and just driving fast, but jumps and sudden starts get me every time. One "issue" i have is that RTRs come from the factory fairly bullet proof these days. I spend less time upgrading parts, though I don't save any money since the cars cost more... Yeah I like Kev's videos, i watch a lot of his for sure. I watch WAY too many RC videos really. THey got me wanting to build a track in my back yard...
  48. 1 point
    Started to gut it out and then deaden it
  49. 1 point
    Installed the HU,sirius and backup camera system. Also did the floor pods next couple of days. Bought them made for the burp I didn't make them.
  50. 1 point
    Progress on the front bumper. and the rear is just getting started. You can see all the cables back there for something bigger haha.

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