pk222

ya but not compared to getting some new aluminums. are you planning on ever swapping to a 350?

not to get off topic either but wow. especially for 2500 I looked at 1 for 6500 that was crap compared to yours

I've raced a couple hondas just as jokes but I never talked to them to find out what they had. I always just get the ricer flyby haha. I know your having problems with sputtering on low end but you'd have a bigger advantage going from a dig than a roll considering he's front wheel drive and I'm guessing if its a stick he'll have no idea how to launch by the way just wanted to say that is the cleanest camaro I've ever seen from that generation.

not to be rude or honda bashing but your having problems handling a honda? unless he's got some serious work done you should be able to walk it easily, but then again I don't know anything about the b18s. as for the ls1 camaro thats gonna be hard to keep up with. I've heard of stock ones hittin 13.3s I know how you feel tryin to be the fastest kid in school. I've been there and still am haha. All it takes is money. high schools easy though, my 89 gt was stock for the most part but word got around that I had a nos kit which I did but, it didn't work. after that no one would race me. I think a shift kit and a stall converter would be your best bet after tuning the carb. putting long tubes on your car now would even further take away low end torque. the reason why I suggested heads and cam is because in my opinion(unless your planning a 350 swap) spending a couple hundred bucks back and forth on small bolt ons to pick up minimal gains gets old really fast compared to saving up and getting the results you really want.

I'll admit I don't know almost anything about chevy engines but I'm guessing like the 5.0 mustang engines the heads are the most restrictive part of the engine so id start there. and since youll already be in there go with a full hci/heads cam intake and u already have the intake covered. what tranney do you have? I know your looking for low end but if you get a shift kit and a moderate stall converter if its a daily driver if its a auto then you might not need to tear into the engine and it might be cheeper. and on either auto or manual I'm sure some rear gears would help but really all I know is mustangs. check around and join some chevy forums theres thousands of sites and people who have different set ups you can check out and ask them how they did it how much and if they ran into any problems. at least thats how I've found information on my mustangs just noticed that you've already done some exhaust and on most cars if you do exhaust without too many other mods you'll lose low end torque. I know it probably sounds great but that if you noticed after you put that on that you lost some low end it would make sense. same thing happened to me in my 89 gt. I put an off road h pipe on and some flows and lost a lot of low end but gained high end

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I don't know if this is too late but I thought I might as well throw my opinion out there. I think a 2 stroke would be better. reason being you could get one way cheaper, parts and maintenance are much cheaper and easier to do yourself. I know some people have had great luck with the new 4 strokes and I'm not knockin them by any means but I have 2 friends with crf 450s and they have had horrible luck with them. one is I think an 06 that he got off the showroom floor that has probably had over 3 grand in just from maintenance and the other is an 03 that has also had numerous problems. Maybe they both just got lemons but all of my 2 strokes have been easy maintenance. To most normal every day riders a 4 stroke is unpractical. My friends do oil and air filter changes almost every other ride, just that alone is anywhere from $30-50. They are way better on gas and you don't have to deal with mixing gas but you can maintain your own bike instead of having to take it in for top ends and valve checks. A top end on a 2 stroke is $120 and a couple hours of time, friends 450s top end was over $800 and was without the bike for over a week and had to bring it back in 3 times from more problems. sorry for the long post but you get the picture, my opinions for the 125

sorry for the late response splphreak, didn't check back. you asked my age, I'm 17 now.

when I first got my license for full coverage on my 89 mustang gt it was almost $500 a month with the good grade deduction. Now I'm on collateral for my 95 cobra and its a little over a hundred a month and within the first 3 weeks of having the car had to have $5 grand worth of work done because the hood flew up. I only had to pay the $100 deductable.

is the music audible over 50 ft an actual law? if so, even stock stereos can do that. I've been pulled over once for my stereo being too loud and I thought the only way you could get a ticket was if you were hitting over 140 dbs? I only had 2 old blown hx2 10s so I argued with the cop for a couple minutes and he let me go. I told him unless he had a temlab meter there was nothing he could do and there was no way I could hit anywhere near 140 dbs. if the 50 foot rule is a real law that sux.

he asked about it and they said they had no idea what was happening. he'll probably end up having to bring it in though.

ok. so theres not really anything he can do about it? hes just afraid hes gonna fry the pump. its to the point where he has to wait probably 5 minutes with the car running after letting it sit to drive because it lowers all the way down to where the tires are rubbing the fender wells.

its leaking right where the air lines connect to the cylinder. were trying to find out if the o ring inside is servicable or if he needs to buy a new cylinder. its leaking on both sides.

you could use water weld. its actually for fixing gas tanks. I've used it on mine. It looked like someone ran over barbwire with it and it only took 5 minutes and has held for the past 4 months with no more smells or leaking. Its a 2 part epoxy putty that you kneed together and it was easy and worked great.

I'm gonna have to look at it again but I think so.

hey guys, my friends got a 92 or 93 lincoln continental that came with air ride from the factory. He replaced the front air struts because there was a leak but its still leaking he said from the o rings. Has anyone had this problem? If so how can we fix it? He's called around everywhere and no one knows what hes talking about so hopefully someone could help us out here. thanks in advance for any help

o, ok that doesn't seem to bad. thanks for all the help and I'll probably be back with more questions withen the next couple weeks but when I'm done I'll try to post pics

with it under the seat, was it muffled from the seat? I'm pritty sure it did but how much. I'm just tryin to find out how to do this and do it right the first time instead of having to go threw a bunch of different set ups. Its not so much for his satisfaction cuz hed probably be happy with it no matter what(he was happy with a visonic walmart self amplified 12) I just wanna do it clean and not have anything not working because of it. like I don't want to make it so that when we finish he won't be able to lift the back seat or if we end up doing them under the front seats, not being able to move them on the tracks

also theres nothing that can be done about the subs firing right into the bottom of the seat right? I was thinking of maybe porting forward since the subs will be muffled.

ok cool. just making sure hed have to go with slim mounts right?

hes just tryin to make a small system. he mostly listens to rock so it doesn't have to be a straight spl system, just something more than speakers. he just wants something thats tight and punchy. he listens to rap every now and then but the majority is rock.

he wouldn't be down for that and he carries around a dirt bike everywhere

I know someone has done this before

hey guys, got a buddy whos thinkin of putting a system in his truck but doesn't want to remove rear seats. were between putting them under the front or rear seats. theres no room at all behind the rear seats. we were thinking 2 shallow mount pioneer 10s. I've heard good things about them but haven't heard them in person. so my question is, does anyone have any idea about what to do for a box or boxes? I'm thinkin our best bet would be under the front seats firing up in around .75 cub boxes but this is just an idea that popped up we haven't measured it out yet. I'm thinking 1 10 on each side with the amp under the middle seat. if anyones done anything like this, if you have tips or comments or possibly pictures it would be greatly appreciated.

ok cool thanks guys.