MickyMcD

*cough* TC Helicon VoiceWorks *cough* *cough*. The only little black box I have ever known to polish a turd. Cheers, Mick

Garden hose for sure. Gets right up there in all the nooks and crannies. Cheers, Mick

G'day bloke, Could you please grab me a photo of the mixing console to aid in identification and possibly I can assist you in what may be a good replacement. If the console only has 1/4" inputs and outputs, it is worth replacing anyway as no man, women, dog or assorted sex mammal/reptile will touch the thing with a barge pole. Cheers, Mick

That reminds me of when I graduated....we used expanding builder's foam to block all school bells, then disconnected all of the PA speakers around the school, then created a network loop in a classroom. It was great. No bells, anouncements, no period times as they couldn't tell the students to move on, all servers down, no inter-class phones....it was bedlam. I laughed a little. Though Rattus poo'd in the toilet cisterns of the staffroom toilets. Slightly wierd, but still a laugh when you can hear teachers complaining of 'fountains of poo coming out of the toilet when you flush'. Cheers, Mick

P.Audio will have drivers that may suit your needs. Also, see if you can scrounge up some Vifa drivers, they appear around the place for rather cheap. A pair of Vifa full range drivers and a pair of quality soft diaphragm high frequency drivers in well built enclosures should do the trick just fine. Cheers, Mick

Oh no, I did not mean to criticise said build houses at all. All I meant was that the figures do not look like current (or my version of current, little outdated) Zenon board specs, and it would not surprise me if Re/Sponse used a Ghangzhou build house as that would be the most logical choice for a company such as themselves. A lot of the products I use are made in Ghangzhou build houses. Doesn't bother me as long as the product quality is as high as I need it. Cheers, Mick

That looks very similar to a Re/Sponse amplifier, a common brand of amplifier sold by electronics distribution chain Jaycar. The model before this was a Zenon board, and I have doubts about this model being a Zenon due to massive figure changes. A rep from Jaycar mentioned something about a Ghangzhou company building them, wouldn't surprise me... Cheers, Mick

Actually a motor can run a wee bit cooler outside the enclosure. Instead of having that 100-200 litres of air to cool with, it has access to a whole environment of moving fresh air. And the pressure in the enclosure does not force air into the pole of the motor, as both the intake and outake of the cooling system are in the same enclosure with the same pressure. No pressure difference, no air movement. Moving the cone certainly does though. Invert them, enjoy etc etc. You may find that you do not need to reverse the wiring at all. The low end may have already been out of phase to start with... Invert them and play around with it. You are not going to harm them, so go for it. Cheers, Mick

Of course. However being from Aus won't help even me with his dimensions, that's just silly. It does help picture the car though. "my maximum width is (120cm )and length is ( 110cm) height is (40cm)". Enjoy. Cheers, Mick

Actually, it tells us almost everything we need to know to design the enclosure. And the Vito is a fairly common van here. Synster, I know the OAX3200 quite well. They are a nice purchase, I'm quite partial to the OA amplifiers. Please reply to the PM with the dimensions and I shall plot a few things for you. Cheers, Mick

I am from Oz. But what do you mean by give you a hand? Design the box for you or give you a hand? If no-one else wants to pitch in, lets keep this to PM's. How about we start by talking about what results you want from the enclosure. Cheers, Mick

Slugdub, your amplifier's frequency response is saying that it has a relatively flat response with little crossover distortion from 20Hz to 20Khz. Without filtering, you could pass infrasonics or VHF through the amplifier well above and below the 20-20, but you may damage the amplifier from that. I would believe that the Lanzer OptiDrive has a frequency response of 40Hz-350Hz. Looking at the build and the small bits of manual floating around, it's another light cone-stiff suspension woofer. Going below 40Hz for that particular driver may bring damage to the driver itself. Aznboi3644, the manufacturer's frequency response actually does mean a whole lot. Especially if it isn't the usual 20-20. If you aren't looking at the measured frequency response and just choosing drivers because you like them or think that every driver can have the same frequency response, that is not intelligent at all. Not suggesting you are, just stating. Cheers, Mick *Edit; Still can't spell for peanuts.

Sorry for the long wait bloke, haven't been here in a few days. I work in live sound, theatrical sound to be precise. I use a DiGiCo D1L as a console, through a BSS Omnidrive for filtering, Urie Performer compressors, TC VoiceWorks, M1 and M2's for effects and a BSS Soundweb for loudspeaker management. We have Meyer Sound CQ1 and CQ2 full range loudspeakers flown with two flown Meyer woofers for low end. Don't really need them, the CQ's are a true full range loudspeaker, but they come in handy. That's FOH, stage monitors and what not are all in the signature below. For the little recording studio we have, we use a DigiDesign 003 Console and VST processing to save on outboard patching. Shure Beta microphones (57's, 58's, 87's, 91's and 98's) for instruments, Rhode NT-2A for vocals. Cheers, Mick

Now what do you mean by 'errors in frequencies?' That is a term that I haven't come across. And with all due respect, no, you do not alter the physical wave by switching sample rate frequencies. What you will experience however is a pronounced comb filter that tricks the human ear into percieving a different frequency response. A lower sample rate frequency has a wide-Q comb, thus giving it that distinct lo-fi all high all low end tone, whereas a high sample rate such as 96KHz has a plethora of combs with a narrow Q resulting in a more 'natural' sound if you will. Being a live sound guy, I've only touched on recording software. How do you find Acid? Worth the time and money, or are there better products out there for the price? Cheers, Mick

Your question has been answered, however I just thought I'd chime in on the topic header. When I'm looking for suitable amplification, it really depends on what I want out of it. If I wanted raw, gut wrenching testicle popping trouser flapping power, I'd be after a solid PCB, overbuilt power supply, large heatsinks or fan forced heat dissipation, high current draw (it takes power to make power) with sacrifices on damping factor and THD. Look closely on what protection is offered. DC output crowbars, full short, partial short, over temperature, power supply fault and some form of distortion limiting are required. Low pass is a must, and a high gain structure is preferable. If I was after a great wide spectrum amplifier, I personally go for extremely low THD, very high damping factor (>1000 20Hz-20kHz), fast slew rate, fast power supply (NO transformer sag) and good routing options and features like filters. Last, but not least, brand name. Brands earn a reputation for a reason, often it is a good mud map on quality. Cheers, Mick

You need, as mentioned before I butted in, an alternator that produces 16v or 18v under load dedicated for audio, or a 16-18v alternator with step-down regulator for general use. However, and I mean this in the nicest way possible, stay away from whatever you are thinking. I am guessing you want lots of watts, but from what you've shown I think amplification like this is a bit out of your league. Again, I really don't mean to be offensive in any way, but this is how accidents happen. Sure, you'll learn after you've dumped 5kW into drivers that can't handle it or are not suitably baffled and destroy them, but you are using some very expensive gear here. What I am more concerned about it fire danger. These devices require lots of current, and wiring that is not safe or not rated for the current this device pulls can cause quite intense fires, let alone the same amount of current at a higher voltage. Let us not forget that a member here only had a small piece of sheet metal on the bottom of the car seat create a short circuit environment, and he lost everything. The car, the equipment... You need a solid amount of electrical knowledge before you start moving power like that around. Please research some basic electrical theorum before undertaking this project. Also, a relay is a voltage operated switch. It will have a switching voltage (actuator voltage) and a load rating. For example, when fed 1.5v 200mA the relay may open a 240v 10A switch. Cheers, Mick

Theatrical sound guy/wanker right here. Cheers, Mick

LOG owns. I can happily listen to and play basslines for LOG any day, 'specially Sacrement and Ashes For The Wake. But damn, Wrath is pretty farkin' good. And here I thought there were no long haired hard rock hooligans on this site...... Cheers, Mick

Power Handling Low Frequency Extension Flat Frequency Response. Pick two. Your kind of response is a bit like mine really. I like low frequency extension with a flat resonatic response. To my ears, there is only one enclosure that does so, and that is a horn. Then grab yourself a parametric EQ or a Graphic if you like cheating and EQ out any peaks or troughs in response. You should only need at maximum +/- 3dB. Any more and you need to redesign the enclosure. Try the BillFitzMaurice TubaHT, optimised for 15" woofers. I built a pair and loved the solid low frequency extension to 15hz. Cheers, Mick

Make that five. A DJ played that song over one of my systems and...well, long story short, I had a blown D-161B (18") and a flaming D-161B. Cheers, Mick

M6 longshank bolts with a M6 nut. Chisel roughly a nut shaped cavity on the interior side of the mounting baffle, Epoxy in said nut then bolt through. Works a treat, can remove the bolt many times without overthreading or boring the hole. Cheers, Mick

In addition to Boon, Class C is a high voltage rectified amplifier that passes the signal down a single wire for broadcast purposes. Class G or H (relatively the same thing) can have any class output stage, but has a multitapped power supply (usually two or three taps) that are used according to demand, and also has transistor 'banks' if the output stage is analogue. The lower the output signal, the less 'banks' are used and a lower amperage transformer tap is used. Higher effeciency than standard supplies and output stages, switching taps can be noisy. SMP or SMPS amplifiers with a class A, AB, B, C, G, or H output stage use a switching power supply instead of heavy transformers. SMP power supplies are very effiecient and, when coupled with large capacitor banks, allows amplifiers to deliver power in bursts above what the suuply power is. Class TD from Lab.Gruppen is some funky motherfucking shit that makes most engineers trip balls. A 13,000w dual channel amp from a 2400w power point? You know it. Cheers, Mick

An Iron Core is lossey compared to an air core and roll off steeply at higher frequencies (around 2ghz, don't worry 'bout that). However, an air core will resonate inside its air gap and can do funky, funky things with harmonics. Audio quality wise, it is best to use an air core in my opinion as they have a more tolerant frequency response. Cheers, Mick

Righto kiddo. Cheers, Mick

No, you obviously don't. You sir, are a dipshit. The road was not built for you, and you must respect that there are many many other vehicles on the road. Your attitude is disgraceful. Do yourself a favour, and stop talking. I myself have HID luminares in my work truck, great for long drives or on the highway at dusk/dawn. 8000k, 2000w each (ripped off a pair of Lycian followspots). I'm a fan. Cheers, Mick