missinglink

Yea, I don't want to get rid of it either but I can always build another one! The hummer took me a year in my garage and now with my daughter and the money needed to start Missing link I had a shift in priorities. It sells with every thing as shown. Thank you , Chris/MLA

I understand people have opinions. Older cars use to charge @ 14.7 for a 12volt system. We are having a standered unit charge 15.5 COLD to stabilize @ 14.7v Look up optima , kinetic , ect... they say 14.4 to 14.8 is a safe charge voltage! With newer cars your charging voltage is controlled by your computer. Think about it you only get a 1-2 yr warranty on new car batteries if the don't charge all the way they wont last as long you think they don't know this. I run 2-200amp alternators @ 16.2 COLD 15.6-15.8 HOT as a daily driver with 13 batteries I have enough storage to use the amps.(note:16 .2 is a special unit for my amount of batteries) On a normal 1-4 battery set up 15.5COLD 14.7 Hot does fine. We have a Ford 150 with a 9yr old shelf battery it has been taking a 15+ voltage charge for 4 years now no problems. Not sure on your 8 cell thing but mine is based on kinetic 6-cell 12v and their 16.9volt batteries are 7 cell. An 8 cell battery would need more voltage than I'm using now! If you take YOUR 16v calculations and use the 2.8volts max per cell x 7 cells = 19.6 (you your self said 16.88 and 20.66) Really how much different is 2.583(you) to what I said 2.6. Please EDIT) Never heard of a 12v 8 cell battery. If you take your 2.583 x 6 cells = 15.48 which is a standered MLA module set point COLD 15.5v. After the alt warms up it will stablelize at 14.7 well in YOUR safe zone even. Correct

I run 12-kinetic 2400 & 1 - 2000 These batteries need 2.6-2.8 volts per cell to see a full charge. There are 6 cells per 2400 thats 16.8volts. Since I run mine at 16.2v COLD they stabilize @ 15.8 or so when hot. This is no where near (dangerously overcharging ) in fact its about a volt shy of even full charge. This is a custom unit for the amount of batteries I have and use for demo's. We have a standard module that will charge 4-6 batteries, its set point is 15.5 COLD when hot it will stabilize @ 14.7 safe for optima, kinetic, even regular batteries. Our module does not over ride your alternators normal function it still backs off when hot , and when your batteries are full. We just change the charging curve of your internal regulator and take back control from newer cars computers. Not sure what a dying 16v is ? I'm charging @ 16v not trying to run a 16v system. A 16v is acutally a 16.9v with 7 cell @ 2.6-2.8 per cell this app.would need to charge @ 18.9 to 19.8v (pending on the amount of batteries). Please help I have never heard of a dying 16v? Thank you, MLA

I agree duel stock alts is the way to go! Stock Ford alts are strong! Edit) plus auto zone lifetime warranty under $200 bucks. SWEET

Funny : since our module gives you about a 200 watts more increase to you power supply (Alternator output converted to watts) If he has a 130a alt and our module brings this up to 150+ amps plus a charging voltage from 13.8 to 15.5v. Sorry please tell how more amperage and higher voltage equals (not fixing the problem)? Sorry but Steave does use one I don't think if it did nothing that he would post it for us and BUY one for the hooptie. Also (my boss) Scott from FI promotes our product as well he helped us build the module. Don't mean to name drop but your statment (mla will not fix the problem) is false! I run 13 batteries on the Ascendant audio hummer with 2 alts @ 16.2v pulling 20,000 watts my lights don't dim. Please ask questions we will try to help no one had awnsers for me and it sucked. Thank you, MLA

We can achieve the same 15.5 to 24v or more if needed set point on internally regulated alts. Externally regulated alts will not perform any better than the internal one.

16v batts are really 16.9v they need around 2.6 to 2.8volts per cell to reach a full charge. The 16.9v has 7 cells so @ 19.6 you would receive a full charge. The only way to get a 16v set up is the 16.9 volt batteries. I run 13 kinetics 2400 (12v) @ a charging voltage of 16-16.2 (15.8v when hot) but my amps see 15volt & batteries lose around 1 volt or more than this @ rest. My batteries rest @ 13.5 to 14 pending on how hard I run for daily. After you take into consideration this loss my 12v set up is holding @ 14..7 while slammin. Newer cars are limiting your alternators voltage to less than 14v. Cause for low charge and voltage drops. Thank you, MLA

Our module works on GM / Ford alternators both stock or after market. Our unit will charge @ 15.3 -15.5v till warm then settles down to 14.7 when hot. I'm not sure on the 12.66 mentioned above but with that number you will always have charging problems. I'm a bass head to so we found a solution why put it in (audio) if you can not beat the hell out of things. There is no need to turn it down boost your voltage up to 15 and slam on (Meade did). Hope this helps, voltage below 13v really can piss off amps. We like to see your batteries resting @ 13+ not playing there. Thank you, MLA

I had the same problem with my alts. They were supposed to be 240 amp alts ,but at idle they gave me no more power than my stock Delphi. Only when I revved my car to 3000rmp did the 240 amp put out more power even then it was only 20-25 more amps than stock @ over $200 more than a stock alt. I love the stock alts their cheaper and you get a lifetime warranty from the zone for less than $200 bucks and with the development of the MLA module we can get almost as much out of stock alt as the 240 amp alts. Smaller pully will help you at idel also.

You have a ford right? Why is there a charge for your type of harness is it not factory?

The show it had 6-zuki audio sub amps.Now 3 10k MA's now that i have my voltage fixed I will put the zuki's back in.

Your stock alt load will be fine the second battery is up to you but always helps for sure.Only thing I see is they won't see a full charge due to the cars computer which controls your alts regulator for output. Your car (newer) gives a 13.8volt control to your alt even if upgraded to a bigger alt your car sends the same signal. Edit : for a little more I would get the 1800 more storage compacity

I have pics but still trying to figure how to post them here.I have a friend flying in on thursday he's gonna show me how to post cut resize cause I haven't really used computers alot kinda new to the forum thing sorry.I'll get'em up soon thx

All ascendant audio: 6-15"prototype mayhems 20- AA 6.5 mid range 12-AA 1" tweets 4-4ch amps for highs 3-MA audio 10K's 12-kinetic 2400 1-kinetic 2000 2-200amp ohio alts 1-MISSINGLINK module of course @16.2volts Kicker wires second skin double roof & floor, triple on the doors 2"thick MDF all fiberglassed molded roof enclosure 2"thick walls

What type of car sorry if I over looked it?

We got kicked out of sema with it.They told kinetic we had to many complaints and we were out side.

You never placed your order or got me your info please send it GM/ford?

When did you ask its in my garage mane? What plugs you need ?

Ascendant audio hummer at sema 07

I would maybe place your mid/high amp off the stock battery & the new one only for the sub amp.The msrp for a kinetic 2400 is $449 I saw this web site see what they can do http://www.millionbuy.com/caudio-kit-sup.html they get thier money on shipping I think.Higher voltage is always nice to keep full charge.