missinglink

When running multi alt set ups we use your cars voltage reference as our guide. So by doing 1 alt to car and 1 alt for sub amp/batteries then the sub/amp batteries have no reference point to go off of and will run 17/18/19v because its "kinda" unregulated. Your front battery / alt sences car draw with the reference point then the 2nd alt sees the same draw/load without a responce back from the car. So all it sees is a load demand and runs wide open pretty much. We can do split system set ups as well they are our "Stand Alone" modules , which in these units we build the reference point into the module. Hope this helps a little more, Chris@ MLA

Did you put this problem up in their forum? Keeping their problems in their own section may help you get a faster answer. I know I don't have time to review all topics and sections for MLA and wish I did. So maybe hit them up there i'm sure they can check it more often. If you still have issues , talk to Robbie @ DC powerinc. Needing something to excite an alt doesn't sound like what he ordered for his car. He wanted a plug in direct bolt on alt without having to modify things. MLA

If this "dedicated alternator" setup had the batteries connected to the slave alternator, with no voltage reference to the master alternator, then yes you have been overcharging your batteries. Multiple alternators should be connected to ALL of the batteries in the bank. Sharing the load between all of the alternators and batteries in the system is the only way a dual alternator MLA module should be hooked up. Clean your batteries with baking soda & water to get rid of the acid that vented. Check the resting voltage after they have cooled off. A 4 gauge jumper wire between the two alternator output studs is recomended if you have seperate batttery banks. 'Link

Obviously not anything to do directly with the Module. We make the harness assembly capable of isolating the module very simply. You were able to disconnect the module & test... the problem remained. We hear things like this when vacuum lines get broken or left off during install on our product. Or relays knocked loose, fuses left out... the list goes on & on. The P0401 code is an EGR failure. It might be any one of the following causing that code: EGR solenoid vacuum supply EGR Valve operation Fused ignition output circuit open EGR solenoid control circuit shorted to voltage EGR solenoid control circuit open EGR solenoid control circuit shorted to ground EGR solenoid failed (open) EGR valve stuck in position Replacing the EGR may fix the problem, or it may not. Your PT Cruiser uses Speed/Density EFI. This means that fuel is delivered based on input from the MAP sensor, TPS and engine speed. ANY vacuum leak on a S/D vehicle can increase idle speeds. Depending on the throttle plate setting, the IAC may not be able to compensate for a vacuum leak in neutral - but once in gear the additional load pulls the idle into line. You should look for a cracked or dangling vacuum line first. the fact that you have a P0401 code would make me look at the EGR vacuum circuit first. You may have displaced a line far enough to open a latent crack when installing the module. Hope this helps. 'Link

Hoya was the promoter too I thought so he was getting alot more than 20mil. There was a sound comp last sunday you should of been there to run. There is another one in a week or so you should hit it up and post some vids. MLA

Got with Scott about your inclosure size. (16 cubes) 2 cubes per sub would be optimal he also said he can custom build the subs to work in your application if smaller is needed. Let us know if you need any more info. Your Pro series "Dual Volt" module should ship monday as well. MLA

Wouldn't be the batteries fault. The battery can only give what it gets. Running a huge 2400 with the 13.6v from your stock electrical voltage don't be suprised if you get dimming. Your battery will never be full no matter what , HO alt or not. 1500 watts rms would need 2 1800's for solid power however their are limits to it. Plus your running a stock alt I take it? Example: if your alt was "say" 150 amps , take 80 amps for your car now left with 70 amps for audio. 1500 watts about 150 amps and do you run an amp for mids and highs? Pulling 150 amps for audio and 80 amps for car your going to need at least a 230 amp alt just to maintain. MLA

Hit up just_rob in a PM you are sure to get a faster response. He will get all the info you'll need to understand more about it. MLA

x2 They just can't handle the extra heat!!!

Port options are good for Comps to Daily driver. Till you know where your car peaks out at use adjustable ports to see. All I do is demo's so our hummer is tuned to 30htz.

x2 These www.dcpowerinc.com are as good as they get bro. Rob will get you set up with the CORRECT alt9(s) for your needs. They use the correct AD style 240+ amp alts for your truck which WILL NOT throw up dash lights and/or codes which I read somewhere that this is acceptable. Sorry but telling me dash lights and computer codes are fine is no way to roll my ride!!! Yea it might charge but doesn't mean its right!!! Do it right use AD series alts and upgrade to DC HO alts FTW. Talk to just_rob on here , we are working together on a dual alt , dual bracket and dual module all in one kit price!!! We have dual alt kits for your tahoe , with bracket and module. Our module will get you the voltage needed to get a full charge plus works with your cars computer to up your voltage safely and correctly. MLA

Drop to 6- 12's for better box size effiency. MLA

Need to post a place to here it. I would like to try it in the hummer since its tuned at 30htz closed up and 29htz windows down.

I would say 1.5 to 2 per. Smaller boxes need more power to push them. 1000 watts you should go for box size effiency. I will ask Scott tomorrow what he thinks a good # for the power should be. For best answer I ask the sub designer FTW. MLA

Can't go wrong with FI or AA they are both great subs. When your ready to tackle your electrical hit up just_rob on here. He will line you up with tight alts and mention us to boot. MLA

Check into DC , as the pics we posted in the dual alt tread as comparision & DC's alts are Grade A bro!!! As you can see 5/16 bigger at stator no ribed stators here totally custom parts. I love this alt , we ran it for a while after this install and after 15min (4 of it pounding shit off my walls) we could still touch this monster by hand , and a temp meter read almost 40 degree cooler than the other HO in the pic after the 15 min run. MLA

Nissan modules are per order and take 5-6 days to custom build for your fit. Make sure you ask how the externally regulated alt works with your cars computer. Most I've seen just bypass your stock alt plug and wires which gives you the charging light issue. You can safely run a internally regulated HO alt with no codes/dash lights in your "98 Nissan Maxima 3.0L at 15volts from a module. Thing about the external regulated alts is you lose the alt temp control which is why these are more for a comp car than a D D. Just options and opinions for you to think about. Keep us posted, MLA

We started on your module today and its a PCM controlling module. Very simple wire splice should only take about 30min from start to finish with room for a "union break" LOL We will hit you up when its ready. MLA

How do you feel about splicing a couple of wires in the engine room fuse / relay box on that Tundra? 'Link (the other MLA guy)

Do you still have the OEM alternator, or are you running a DTR180 in that Tundra? Actually they do it to beat the CAFE requirements. By reducing the charge voltage as low as 12.6 volts, GM basically drops the alternator out. On that screwy dyno test, 2 horsepower can really skew the fuel consumption. GM saves on alternator warranty work, batteries they could care less about. Look at the GM TSB regarding the low charging issues: Subject: Information on Voltmeter Gauge Fluctuation Due to Regulated Voltage Control System and Concerns About Camper/Trailer Battery Charging #07-06-03-009 - (12/05/2007) I won't post the whole thing here, but a quick google will find it posted several places... 'Link

They made sure kinetik did not register the hummer again for the 08" show. Eric said at first they told them no feature vehicles untill kinetik agreed the hummer wasn't going to be there. Most just get tickets for excessive noise not a personal escort out , them darn Ascendant Audio Mayhems and 13 kinetik 2400's are to blame i'm sure of it!!! LOL We have some shit brewing for the 09" show FTW. MLA

AA /FI subs are sweet huh!!! Cool looking install box is just as important as the subs for sure. Let us know when your ready for a little more voltage!!! I sent a reply to your pm mane just let us know. MLA

Even though we got kicked out of SEMA 07" due to the hummer being to loud FTW!!! SEMA is all 4 the cars and the best for ideas and car upgrades. Ces is fine just only has booth cars. There are a higher # off "working girls" in town for sema. Yes AVN awards are around Ces so porn stars are at a prime here. Really depends on whats your fancy!!! I know some agency girls if you need to order up a few. LOL MLA

With any alt , stock or HO your FJ's voltage is controlled by the cars computer. Raising your stock PCM voltage will help with any changes you do as far as the alt. Higher voltage is needed for multi battery setups to ever see full state of charge. I would see where your voltage is setting now , HO or not the voltage is controlled by the PCM. Just_Rob has a good understanding of whats needed to get performance. Only so much amperage can move into your batteries from factory regulated voltage setpoints. Voltage (which is pressure) is needed to push amperage into your batteries to get full state of charge. MLA

A HC 3800 should not even be a comparison in cost or performance its a whole different monster. You can find 2400 for about the same price. Performance is yes about the same! MLA