missinglink

Try Rob at DC I know he has alot of options. They do alot of kick ass high demand applications. We will be running some of his AD special purpose alts in the Hummer soon. We tested a few last night and we were very impressed , top knotch build quality for realz. www.dcpowerinc.com MLA

As for alts for upgrade talk to "just_rob" on here he has sent us some alts to test out. First off they are top knoch quality (NO WAI BS parts), good solid construction , and he is honest and straight forward. We will of course bench test, and HUMMER test them before we give our stamp of approval. We get asked all the time what alternator we recommend for best performance and stock has been the answer so far. We will test these bad boys and see what they can do. If the performance matches the build quality , look out!!! We will keep everyone posted for sure. MLA

With that power try a FI Q series or their Fully loaded BL it will perform better with that power than the stiff BTL. Better efficiency for amp/sub match is better than a underpowered BTL anyday! Lesson learned form scott himself!!! MLA

Actually, running two units like that is a good choice. Most alternators rated over 200 amps do not put out squat at idle. Your stock unit will still have good idle output. 'Link

A real 16 volt set up would need over 19v to see a full charge in the battery. Kinetic's have a 12v step down built into their batteries which works fine for most needs. But an independant alt and battery set up is highly recommended , we can get you the voltage needed for a 16v set up off a normal factory or HO internally regulated alt if needed. Most daily drivers and/or the average competitors are fine on a 12v setup. You should stick with a 12v system and charge it at 15volts from a module. Let us know, MLA

Your Stock alternator is a 100 amp rated CS130D. The MLA module for that truck is a plug&play unit. For a daily driver, you will need good output across the range. There are some aftermarket alternator specialists that can build you a higher output unit, just be sure it has more output at idle where you spend plenty of time with a daily driven vehicle. Use as many batteries as you can fit / afford. More capacity means less cycling of the batteries, and more reserve. With a stock alternator it may be necessary to charge from an AC charger overnight if you beat the system a lot. A good voltmeter is a must, you need to keep an eye on things. 98HOE - thanks for the kind words, and all of your support. Some people will never learn, at least you tried. 'Link

Well, I can answer the last one... The MLA Module is manufactured by Missing Link Audio, or MLA for short. Missing Link Audio The module allows stock or aftermarket alternators to charge at higher voltages in computer controlled cars. It reshapes the charging curve to allow for full charge on multiple battery systems. Many posters here are very happy with the results. There is an MLA forum in the manufacturers area here at SMD. As for the rest of your questions - install all of that in what exactly? a 1988 Yugo? a 2005 Astro Van? For what purpose - Daily driver tunes? Competition? Fill us in on your vehicle specs, there are many here that can help you. 'Link

Depth of discharge directly effects lead/acid battery life - deep cycle or not. So called "Deep Cycle" batteries will tolerate deeper discharge than cranking batteries, but no battery manufacturer recomends cycling them below 50% of capacity. Running any lead/acid battery completely flat is not a good idea. It will not help the battery in any way, and does not "recondition" them - unless you count a speedy return to the recycler as "reconditioning". Try to keep the cycling above the 50% discharge level, and you will get more service from your deep cycle batteries. Most of the solar or wind power people have a good grasp of battery life vs discharge depth, and many of them size a battery bank for 25% discharge under normal use - and they start firing up a generator if they get close to 40% discharged. Have a look at some of the home power type websites for deep cycle battery info. They are usually very willing to share with you. 'Link (None of the above applies to sealed NiCd batteries. It is indeed important to run NiCads flat every cycle to prolong the service life)

In the hummer I ran 1 1/0 from each alt to each side battery bank and a 1/0 to the main battery. 2-1/0 Grounds are from alt bracket to frame , then last battery in line to frame , from that frame location to the disto block , then to the amps. Only fused mine before each amp. Edit) I didn't do the jumper between the alts , was not really a noticable difference on mine. MLA

I am trying to help you out with this, but haven't heard from you yet? Whats up? MLA

Well Scott has a family life as well. He has alot on his shoulders with FI , Ascendant , and OEM subs he builds so you can see why he don't answer his phone. Plus you have been trying during recone time and rush orders for Finals. You can't call up the owner of kicker or Alpine direct and get through either so let me help you out. All his warranty info is on his web site im sure. What is your questions about shipping? I worked for Scott before I started MLA. I'm sure I can help or I will get your answer and / or your info to him for you!!! MLA

I run the MA Audio 10k per two Mayhems 15" subs no problem about 3000 watts per sub. Steve runs over 4000 per BTL so they should be fine.

The big thing to check on the 2000 Dakota is the cable operated blend door. If turning the temperature control knob with the A/C on does not change the vent temperature - your cable is disconnected, broken or badly mis-adjusted. Your repair manual should have the adjustment procedure for the cable. With the controls set to floor air & full hot, the discharge air at the floor vent should be over 140f 'Link

Run as much battery as you can afford/fit. You mention a stock alternator, but not enough vehicle info. Running 1100 watts is beyond most stock alternators - you need battery capacity to fill the gap. Your 4 gauge wire is also a handicap. If you are making runs to the trunk with 4 gauge, you are losing power @ 1100 watts. You should monitor the voltage at the amplifier terminals to determine how far your voltage is dropping, then take the same measurement at your battery terminals. 'Link

At 12.9 volts you are discharging that YellowTop. You need to see a minimum of 14.7 volts to properly charge that battery, and higher voltages will not damage it. More batteries will provide longer run times before they are depleted. With a 90 amp alternator, your available power will be much less than that. Modern fuel injected, computer controlled cars have large power needs. Electric fans, A/C etc. all use power too. With 1500w RMS your power consumption far exceeds your total alternator output. You are running on the battery. Adding a larger alternator will help some, but 150 amps is not enough to run 1500 watts continously. Many high output alternators have poor output at idle, making it necessary to rev the engine for full output. If you really want it to hit harder, add a battery & keep them fully charged. When your voltage stays above 14.7 you will see a big difference. The MLA module is available for some (but not all) cars. Depending on what car you have, it may be the only way to raise the charging voltage to keep you batteries fully charged. 'Link Edited to add: Sorry, I type slow. I see now that you have a Hyundai, and that you have a high enough voltage (barely) to maintain the YellowTop. More batteries, more alternator - both good ideas. Once you upgrade the alternator, let us know & we will look at Module options for your upgraded unit.

Keep us posted. Look up 00sdime00 on here he runs 3 alts on a s-10 with a module. MLA

All your alt info from WAI.Alternator 6 4.3 262 W All DELCO 10480251 1-2156-21DR-1 DR CS130D 100 amps By using a module your alts would be ran from one module and use the same turn on wire for a more accurate "factory controlled" power on set up. The module works as a plug and play for your set up , and no need to spend money on a new HO alt use the factory alts with more voltage and you will be fine. Alts @15volts and a new battery (if needed)should solve all your issues for sure and help keep a low budget as well. Check your batts resting voltage (12.8/13v )would be a good charged battery. You would have a more stable , easier working alt set up with two stock alts over one HO for sure. Also looks cooler than a single alt FTW . If your interested or have more questions you can call or PM us. MLA

With all four alts at the higher voltage from our module you will get full batteries. With your PCM controlled voltage you can have 6 alts but they will only do the regulated voltage of 13.6 or so. All in all your Quad set up will be solid so keep us posted. You should see your module tomorrow if you didn't recieve it today. Thanks,MLA

A couple of things to think about: 1) Incandescent lamps are very sensitive to voltage. A small change in voltage can make a noticable change in light output. You may be "seeing" a .6 volt swing. 2) The OEM electrical system is a skimpy as they can make it. The wire that feeds the entire dash & interior may only be 12 gauge. Since the window motors can draw 20 amps when they stall, you will see some dimming. The factory knows the window load is a short term load, and allows the wiring harness to be "overloaded" for short periods. They save 75 cents per car in copper... multiplied by millions of cars. You should check your OEM power connections to be sure they are clean & in good shape. Check the system voltage inside the car, on the OEM bus. Use the lighter socket, and measure the voltage with your DMM. Then roll the windows up and watch the meter... 'Link

The two systems are not cross-compatible. Both systems receive a modulated signal back from the regulator, but that does not mean that the signal is the same. The PCM provides a PWM signal on the regulator input, and reads the field duty cycle as well as system voltage to adjust charging with the DR44G alternator. Your older AD244 is managed in a similar fashion, but the old regulator still has the capability to run without feedback - that is why you could make it start with a jumper to B+ ( I strongly recomend a current limiting resistor in that jumper circuit!) Why are you installing an older, non-compatible alternator in your 2007? 'Link

You should way out the price. For sure FI's are no joke don't let the lower price fool you its 100% Quality. Treo's are good but they are marked up atleast here in vegas. FI's can and do run at 4500+ watts like Steve's Or 3000+ watts per sub like my hummer, both on daily driver applications. Every one has opinions and favorites. Scott can build custom design HIGH SPL subs for any application as well. Like treo, FI is more for the bass race , daily driver set ups as well. Sorry about the one sided post just getting you my tried and true input on Guru Scott's product. Treo owners please help with your input also Thanks, MLA

x2 Our module gets you better voltage and adds anticipation as well , but as with most things electrical there are limits. If your alt can not keep up our module does not over ride the alts internal protection. It will help out alot by doing shorter burps. Adding a battery for the extra storage is always a plus. A second yellowtop would be fine if your trying to save on the cash. MLA

You say you have a good spark. if it cranks, and you can smell gas - it is flooded. That car has the 5S-FE engine with fuel injection. Changing the fuel filter & adding some fresh gas is a good idea, but to get it to start you will need to do a bit more. 1) Go buy a fresh set of spark plugs. Either NGK BKR5EYA11 or Nippondenso K16R-U11 2) Put the battery on charge overnight Charge it for at least 10 hours, 16 is even better. 3) Pull the old plugs out. Be careful to clean around them before you pull them, or all of the dirt around the plug will just drop into the engine. Compressed air is great for this, but a good blow dryer will work if you have no compressor. 4) Clear the engine. With all of the old plugs out, crank the engine for 5 or 6 seconds, with the throttle wide open. Wait about 5 minutes, and do it again. 5) Check the gap on the new plugs, and install them. It should start without any trouble. 'Link

Old BTL is around 60 lbs and I'm pretty sure the new one is around 64 lbs or so. MLA

Some of those are easier to deal with from below the vehicle... FWD is a PITA. For parts I always deal with AMA in Phoenix. They have a website - http://www.ackits.com/ but in this case you should just call them. They stock clutch assemblies, but the website does not list all of the inventory. 1-602-233-0090 Jack or Tim will be glad to help you out. Top quality parts, at a fair price. They may be able to tell you a lot about the install as well. 'Link