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moh.vze.com

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Everything posted by moh.vze.com

  1. Pretty sure my box is all jacked up because the weird noise is more noticeable on multiple songs now How much would shipping cost be from Florida to Oregon if I were to get a box built by you?
  2. Hmm. So I should use a bunch of rubber washers to give it a couple cm away from the back of box and just nail it to the box?
  3. XL M2's destroys my sub box. Who would have thought.

    1. Omega5002

      Omega5002

      Sounds like you need a stronger box

    2. Captain Stupid

      Captain Stupid

      ...or some carbon fiber....lol

    3. Real96SS

      Real96SS

      Only way XL's kill your box is that it wasn't any good from the jump.Get a good quality box built or build it yourself so you know what your getting.

  4. I'm thinking about mounting my DC5K like this and have the subs fire towards the rear, but I'm afraid it might not get enough ventilation for the amp. Thoughts? Note: I will also have rear speakers so there's like no hole for the spl to go into the cabin. I might have to just not use rear speaker will if I go this route.
  5. It's an old sub box I used for my 1200W system and 600W system years back. So should I drill this additional layer of MDF to the back of the amp? It looks like I'm going to need someone to build me a new box soon But I think if I go this route, I might as well put the battery sideways so that the box can go all the way back to the rear of trunk if needed? Seems like I have a lot of space for a bigger box except on the sides because of the trunk bracket thing that close down.
  6. it was a long time ago from edesignaudio.com ( I think they're site is having problems now)
  7. I cut my Power/GND wires too short so now I can't turn the subs towards the rear to see if it's louder I think it's safe to conclude that the sub is not making the weird rattle noise and no damage will be done to the subs or the amp. Yes? I don't mind the rattles as long as it doesn't damage anything besides my car parts. In the mean time, I'm just going to stay away from decaf and play at half my bass knob tuned level.
  8. Here is a recording from the back of trunk. I'm actually pretty confused if the rattle is from a metal part inside the trunk or from inside the sub box. Du ma >< http://youtu.be/6qxGulKrorQ
  9. Well this is weird. I can hear that noise from the video on my laptop speakers but not my desktop speakers. Hopefully someone on here will be able to hear that weird rattle noise and come up with a conclusion
  10. http://youtu.be/2VQaSs1fs68 Recording 2: http://youtu.be/s9TlJm19IFM 100% First part of the song and near the end of video when that note repeats. I'm gonna go shower and try and test this out again with the trunk lid open to see if the rattle goes away maybe?
  11. I'm uploading the video right now. The rattle is on the first note of that put on decaf song. I'm starting to wonder if it's a metal bar somewhere inside my trunk that's rattling or maybe the speaker wire inside the sub dangling around. I've set the ssf to 30Hz just in case.
  12. I wish DC Power would hurry up and make an 270A XP  alt that work's for my Camry :(

  13. I was also thinking about removing that Hlab thing and using the amp's ssf. Is there a way to know the exact freq setpoint on amp with an oscope for tuning? I've been out of electronics school for 4 yrs and don't remember much.
  14. Well on non decaf songs the voltage is able to stay above 13.0V with the two batteries and 80A Alt. It's only when I play my decaf stuff is when the voltage would slowly drop to about 12.2V The sub sounds fine on normal songs. I'm contacting those HLabs guys to see if I've set my SSF correctly. The damn example in their manual shows the "Left High Section" but doesn't specify if I need to remove the pins from the "Right High Section" as well. Anyways, I'm setting it to 30Hz and testing it out again tomorrow and making a vid. I'm just relief to know that it's not tinsel slap problem and that my spider is still intact. Anyone here good at reading manuals? http://www.hlabs.com...HPSUB/index.htm
  15. Lol. I know it looks hella lame with those ghetto ugly looking color expandable wire thing. I'll take your advice on the rubber washers though. I'll wait on the L brackets just because I need to figure out my other issues with the subs first before I really mount that box down.
  16. Well, if it is tensil slap, should I be worried? Will it go away perhaps after 'break-in' period? I'm still suspecting that maybe I am using my SSF Harrison Lab thing wrong. I am thinking one of the sub is filtering at 25Hz where as the other sub is filtering at 20Hz. Nonetheless, I need to figure out exactly how to use that SSF and set everything to 30Hz and play those songs again tomorrow to see if it still does that flap noise.
  17. Here's a video of the spider like chode suggested. They look intact to me. http://youtu.be/va6TkA6_N5k 100%
  18. I think I might have used my HP-SUB SSF wrong? can someone confirm? Here is the manual: http://www.hlabs.com...HPSUB/index.htm Looking directly at my HP-Sub SSF, I only have the top left pin taken out and I seem to have the right two jumper pins intact. Was I suppose to take that top right jumper out also to get "25Hz" filter? Was I only filtering 25Hz for the left channel and 20Hz for the right channel sub or something?
  19. I'll do this after taking the vids tomorrow. It was a pain in the butt putting those subs in from the rear seat area (the damn thing was hella heavy). I will go ahead and set the ssf to 30hz from the 25hz point also.
  20. I tuned it with my velleman oscope using a 40Hz @ 0dB Test tone off SMD's dd-1 disc. The wavelengths were clean on my oscope.
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