moh.vze.com

I'm not using bass boost on amp

The voltage goes down to lowest I've seen at 12.2V or so. I will check again later tomorrow night. It stops doing it when I turn my bass knob to about half I believe. I bought a custom $50 sub sonic filter that has 4 pins 5 years ago. It is attached to the rca cable. I have it pulled out at 25Hz. http://store.hlabs.c...view_product=12 I will try and create a video tomorow but I'm not sure if my camera will pick up the movement. I'll check again to see exactly which note it was. I remember it doing that flap flap noise on another decaf song aswell. What I'm wondering is maybe the sub box is too small and is drowning the subs with its small vent?

Is it bottoming out? My box is 3cF and tuned to 30 Hz and I have the sub sonic filter set to 25 Hz. The box is not that big so why is this happening? Maybe it's not bottoming out? How do I tell? Thanks. Conclusion: The sub box was flexing and causing the weird flap flap noise.

Nevermind. It still smells like nail polish Lol Ghetto rigged it

I didn't clamp it yet. Link me to the needed materials please All I used was my velleman oscope to make sure i had clean waves.

Update: 69.3V tuned with 40hZ @ 0dB test tone. About 4802 watts rms When I changed track to 40 hZ -5dB tone, it's about 1440 watts total. My old eD 13ov.2's i tuned it with a -5dB tone just to be louder. What do you guys suggest for the dc subs? should I just stick with 0dB tuned settings and retuned to -5dB for louder output once the subs break in?

I've just retuned everything. For some reason, my headunit clips after volume after 28 knob. It use to clip after 30 but after all the new changes I've made, it's now at 29 and over. I've taken out the broken PPI P900.4 and put in my old eD Nine.2 (I'm surprise that thing is still working until today. I got it back in 2007 or so) and tuned everything at 0db test tone. The DC5K is tuned at 0dB to output about 4000 watts total. For shit and giggles, I played the 40hz -5dB track to see how much power I'd be outputting for the lowest songs and it was only outputting about 2000 watt total. I just did a 10 minute drive on full tilt with the new tuned settings and the voltage averages about 12.9V. I guess the XP3000 helps a lot haha. Once I get my new Alt in I'll probably retune it at 40 hz @ -5dB test tone instead of a 0dB tone (unless all the DC Audio people here recommend I stick with the 0dB tone). All in all, I'm satisfied with the new equipment Note: The amp and dustcap were just a little warm and hot so I think I'm good so far.

Thank goodness. I was a bit worried -.-

I tuned it to about 1k watt per sub with a 0db test tone until I get a better alt. The voltage is pretty much above 12.5V The only issue I'm having so far is that they smell like nail polish. Is this normal?

Got my M6 Bolt in various lengths. I was hoping to find a 100/120 or whatever ANL Fuse but couldn't get one. Best Buy only had 200A kicker ANL fuse. Car Toys was the only place that had a 100A ANL fuse but wanted to charge me $18 for one. Radio Shack, O'REiley's, Autozone, 3 other automotive/hardware stores didn't carry ANL Fuses. I'll have to order one online now. As for my question, is it a bad idea to continue running my 4AWG run from front batt (fused) to rear batt (no fuse) until I get one? Or should I just disconnect that extra run as a whole?

I don't know I'm hoping for some help with this build lol. Will it work fine if I only use it for a couple of months and upgrade to bus bars later? Actualy, I miscalculated It is 6 off positive post and and 5 off negative post.

Ace Hardware store has the M6 Bolt in 2inch max which is perfect for my app. Now, should I get it in Stainless Steel or Alumium Alloy?

Damnit. I forgot I had an extra 4AWG Positive run from front batt to the rear. What size fuse is it for knukonceptz 4 AWG power wire ofc. 125A? 150A? It's for the rear.

I'm afraid of bus bar because it leaves more room for something bad to happen with something that big. Hmm. I'll use the M6 bolt as a temporary solution and get a bus bar another time I'm still crimping these damn connections.

where can i get m6 bolt

Ace Hardware, Autozone, Mike's Autostore, Ace Hardware store

What do I do? I want to get this done ><

thanks for the clarification. It's a good thing I bought extra 250A's

What about autozone?

I'm doing my build right now and I've ran into the problem where the XP3000 battery screw is not long enough for my connections. Is there a quick solution for this? Do I just go to home depot or autozone to find a longer screw in? If so, how long? I've measured .75inch that the ring terminals take up on the positive end.

The DC5K has two inputs for power wire. The manual says recommended fuse rating of 500A but is that for the total of two runs (250A + 250A) or is it 500A for run 1 from batt and another 500A for run 2 from batt? I only have a bunch of 300A and 250A ratings.

I've been waiting for the 270 XP for my 1999 Toyota Camry XLE v6 1MZ-FE Motor since May 2012 hoping that they would finish the model for my car. I checked back with DC Power yesterday and it turns out they've 'side tracked' from the project I just placed an ordered on two 12" XL M2"s and still need a strong H/O Alt that can run the DC 5k and charge D2400 + XP3000 without any trouble.

that's pretty cool