Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

13 Good

About paidnfull

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

1568 profile views
  1. I wound up tying both of the factory dash speakers to the front left output on the factory deck, and using the rear outputs for my signal to everything else. Put the factory fronts on a switch, so I don't have to listen to chimes or blinkers or seat belt warnings or any of that crap. If I get a phone call, it still mutes everything so I can tell it's ringing, just flip a switch and answer, then turn it back off when the call is over. Been working great for me. The chimes and warnings were ridiculous with the way I originally set it up. One of the few cases where having the bose system would actually make life easier. Pac makes a pretty bad ass module that ties in to the factory wiring and gives you a digital signal for your new amps/processors, and lets you adjust the warning chimes and crap however you want, but only works with the bose setup.
  2. I think you were over driving the mosconi amp, and under powering the sub. You more than doubled your power with the jl amp, so I'm not surprised at all that you saw a significant difference. I'm not sure I'd blame the mosconi for all your troubles though.
  3. They don't know how to shoulder a rifle or you have a scope with terrible eye relief that's positioned too far back to compensate?
  4. This is a really cool piece for factory integration if you have the bose system. Full control over the factory chimes and all that crap, digital output, etc. https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-gm61?search_query=amppro&results=12 Don't know exactly how the loopback harness deals with all the stuff that's built into the factory setup, but the pac modules I've used recently have been pretty awesome. I wish this was available for my non-bose setup. I used a jl fix on mine, which gives me a great, clean output to start with , but does not really deal with the onstar/chimes/bt...
  5. Explain, "put the amp up to 75%". If you're talking about the gain/level, that isn't how it works.
  6. Probably not fets. It's also possible that your pc power supply is noisy. Hook it to a battery.
  7. Have you tried to hook up a speaker near the amp? If not, try that, it is possible that your speakers wires are picking up noise somewhere. If you get noise a foot from the amp, with no rca's connected, and the gain all the way down, I think the amp is jacked.
  8. That's a really big amp to practice or learn on. I would recommend trying some small, like under 500 watt, amps first. And get fairly proficient at that. At least if you blow up parts, it won't be hundreds of dollars worth that way. The big time amp repair shops don't even like screwing with those huge boards.
  9. No kidding. I'm at about 14 months now, stuck in the infamous "fbi background check" mode for two toys at the moment. Just started another process on two more cans about two months back, hope they don't get stuck too. Such bullshit.
  10. These are decent, and cheap. Same board as the infinity k1000, which shows on the dyno to do over rated (almost 1600 dynamic @ 2ohms, 1200 and 1350 cert and uncert). Have one in my wife's car on an sa8. https://www.walmart.com/ip/JBL-GTR-1001-2600W-Max-1000W-RMS-GTR-Series-2-Ohm-Stable-Monoblock-Subwoofer-Amplifier/821219081?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=7265&adid=22222222227000000000&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42423897272&wl4=aud-566049426705:pla-51320962143&wl5=9026812&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=115787563&wl11=online&wl12=821219081&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_JfS77eT4AIVDL7ACh1NhQkJEAYYAiABEgIAsfD_BwE
  11. If you aren't using a resistive load, the voltage method would be wildly inaccurate. Even though you're wired to 2 ohms, your subs could be showing the amp a 10 ohm load. If you set the gains based on voltage alone with a reactive load, your gain will be set way too high. As others have noted, if you aren't measuring the headunit, you could also be clipping the signal before it even gets to the amp.
  12. Most name brand headunits do around 15-20 watts rms (the difference between 15 and 20 should be inaudible). I don't know what radio Steve tested, but Sony does have a radio that's been out for a couple years with a class d 40x4 amp built into it. It's 40 rms per channel. Mex100 and mex120. They definitely have a different sound to them, but an external amp (even a kicker 40x4) still seems to have more ass to it, probably because you can overdrive it a bit and still achieve good results.
  13. You would be surprised how many of these companies, especially the smaller off brand types, have a human answer the phone. Now the question is: Can you have a meaningful conversation with them? That answer is likely no. Mainly because a lot of those type companies don't really do anything but purchase premade stuff from some chinese manufacturer and slap a badge on it. They've never used it, they didn't design it, etc. A lot of them are more than willing to swap stuff out and want to have good CS, but rarely have any knowledge about their product.
  • Create New...

SMD Chat Room

SMD Chat Room

Please enter your display name