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paidnfull

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  1. Totally disagree. More power will almost certainly add more depth. He may not be able to drive them as hard and they may not seem as loud as they were with a fully clipped low power signal, but the speakers will almost certainly sound better, especially at lower volume.
  2. I got one of the "test" one's they sent out before they were released to the market. Came with the mile range remotes, sensors, and siren. Been installed on my wife's car for probably close to two or three years now. Been pretty awesome. Install is a breeze on any vehicle that runs mostly on data. Get pretty much everything you need from the vehicle on just a small handful of wires (some cars only need like 4 or 5 wires). Still has the ability to be installed on an older vehicle that requires all the w2w hookups, but then it's about the same as any of the older traditional systems.
  3. They make an epicenter with high level inputs. The "plus" and "indash" model both have them.
  4. We are. The lights and troller are 12v. We run converters to keep the batteries full. Different application. Was mainly just explaining the type of load and environment we use them in. And that they have been reliable. You can run these without a battery bank, but I prefer to use the batteries as a cushion.
  5. We are running lights and trolling motors on a boat. We do have a 400 watt amp running the stereo, but the significant portion of the power draw is 1000 watts of led’s and a trolling motor that draws about a 100 amps at full tilt. We run converters at work on our displays too though, but don’t know the brand. On the sub board we have two 100a supplys, no batteries. On the headunits we have a single hundred amp on each bank of decks. No batteries.
  6. Run them in parallel. Tie multiple converters to the same bank of batts.. We basically use them like alternators. Instead of running a large, heavy battery bank, we run two batteries for our whole system (which would last less than an hour without some type of charging). Two of the small inverter style generators which are light and quiet, and two of these converters. The genny's stay in econo mode unless we run the troller on high for extended periods of time. Kind of irrelevant to your setup, but we run them hard and they live in an extremely wet and humid environment.
  7. I'm with the other guys who think you'll be better off going a different route. Rack mount or pa type amps are really going to be the way to go. That being said, we have used powermax converters on our bowfishing rigs with great luck. They are very reasonably priced and have worked great for us even in really bad environments for electronics. https://powermaxconverters.com/ You can stack them. We run two of the 120a ones on one of my buddy's rigs. Run them off small suitcase genny's, and these let us run all our lights and a troller pretty much indefinitely without having to head in early with dead batteries or having to worry about recharging a bank of batts to go again the next night.
  8. I have had very good luck with the ion series amps. Probably used about a dozen of the 4 ch's and about another dozen of the 5 ch's. The ones I have seen tested did rated power. Crazy small footprint, very efficient. I haven't gone out of my way to abuse them (run lower than rated impedance, over driving them, etc), but have had no issues at all. Except for the stupid copper sticker badges falling off of them, they have been solid. I've also had very good luck with the phantom series subs.
  9. Most of the kenwoods I have tested were clean right up to 32 or 33 with eq flat, any kind of bass boost or loud feature turned off, and usually the sub level a few clicks shy of max. With the sub level maxed out, I usually got distortion under 30 on the 40hz tone, so I would back that off to match the level on the fronts and then just make a mental note of how far I could go with the sub.
  10. I have used them. Same luck I've had with any other retail chain agm's...diehard, duralast, superstart, etc. I've had good luck with all of them, and prefer the local, relatively no questions asked, warranties.
  11. If you don't have constant power, you probably have a blown fuse. If you don't have acc power, you probably have a blown fuse. If you don't have ground, easiest solution would be to just run a new one. Use the volt meter to check fuses. Make sure you check all of your fuse boxes. Most cars have one under the hood and one in the cabin. Some cars have more than two.
  12. Use a volt meter. Verify constant, acc, and ground. Rewiring and changing fuses for no reason isn't going to fix anything.
  13. Fully understand how to do the math. This one doesn't work that way, or the switch is labeled incorrectly (I've never measured one, but have seen them). I don't know what they've done here. Maybe, as another poster mentioned, they're dropping a coil, but we know that would affect power handling and they don't seem to mention that, so.............I dunno.
  14. He probably means 4 to 2. Infinity shallow subs have a switch that goes 4 to 2 also. Same company, probably same technology. I don't know how they do it and agree with you that if they were simply changing coils from series to parallel, your numbers would make more sense.
  15. Definitely don't do a qbomb. I had a customer bring one of those in and it had 1/4" gaps in between the panels in some areas, with gobs of silicone smashed in and bedliner laid over the top. Other areas on the outside had silicone on top of the finished bedliner, like they found more gaps after it was finished and decided that would be a suitable solution. They're junk.
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