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paidnfull

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  1. Definitely don't do a qbomb. I had a customer bring one of those in and it had 1/4" gaps in between the panels in some areas, with gobs of silicone smashed in and bedliner laid over the top. Other areas on the outside had silicone on top of the finished bedliner, like they found more gaps after it was finished and decided that would be a suitable solution. They're junk.
  2. I had terrible luck with the ppi and the cadence, which both seem very similar. I know people hate jl, but I have had great luck with the twk's, and you can find them refurbished for reasonable prices. I have no personal experience with them but the minidsp's are reasonably priced and seem to have a big following, also the one partsexpress came out with a year or so ago seems to be pretty decent, and very inexpensive (dayton maybe?).
  3. This isn't really anything at all like a 360. It's just loc, not a processor. It has their little built in bass restoration thing and is able to sum, but that's the extent of the processing capability. No crossover or eq. It's for someone who wants to put aftermarket amps on a factory deck, and start with a clean signal.
  4. I love the audiocontrol loc's. FWIW, the little 20-40 dollar pac ones are good too. They don't give a very high voltage, usually 1-2, but will give a clean signal and have summing capability. They'll take a much higher input voltage than the cheapo's too. Some of the audiocontrol's or higher end pac pro's will get up near 8v output and accept like 100w inputs. Long as you can get a flat signal out of the factory setup, that's just as good or better than an aftermarket. The axxess and scosche ones have been junk. Like you said, most show a dirty signal even with the pots all the way down and the radio volume just strong enough to get a reading.
  5. https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/139844-how-to-eld-bypass-for-honda-civicaccordfit/
  6. I wound up tying both of the factory dash speakers to the front left output on the factory deck, and using the rear outputs for my signal to everything else. Put the factory fronts on a switch, so I don't have to listen to chimes or blinkers or seat belt warnings or any of that crap. If I get a phone call, it still mutes everything so I can tell it's ringing, just flip a switch and answer, then turn it back off when the call is over. Been working great for me. The chimes and warnings were ridiculous with the way I originally set it up. One of the few cases where having the bose system would actually make life easier. Pac makes a pretty bad ass module that ties in to the factory wiring and gives you a digital signal for your new amps/processors, and lets you adjust the warning chimes and crap however you want, but only works with the bose setup.
  7. I think you were over driving the mosconi amp, and under powering the sub. You more than doubled your power with the jl amp, so I'm not surprised at all that you saw a significant difference. I'm not sure I'd blame the mosconi for all your troubles though.
  8. They don't know how to shoulder a rifle or you have a scope with terrible eye relief that's positioned too far back to compensate?
  9. This is a really cool piece for factory integration if you have the bose system. Full control over the factory chimes and all that crap, digital output, etc. https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-gm61?search_query=amppro&results=12 Don't know exactly how the loopback harness deals with all the stuff that's built into the factory setup, but the pac modules I've used recently have been pretty awesome. I wish this was available for my non-bose setup. I used a jl fix on mine, which gives me a great, clean output to start with , but does not really deal with the onstar/chimes/bt...
  10. Explain, "put the amp up to 75%". If you're talking about the gain/level, that isn't how it works.
  11. Probably not fets. It's also possible that your pc power supply is noisy. Hook it to a battery.
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