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About andru
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I wouldn't buy the cheapest, if you can find a place that stocks green gates fleetrunner belts. you might have to return belts that don't fit right so you want to buy locally
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1. this is an old junkyard door and the springs that serve as a counter weight for the weight of the glass are probably worn out, I did see much higher current was drawn while moving the window up. 2. The switches are good but the contacts might not yet be completely broken in yet. I can get my hands on the oem tolerances for contact resistance so I could test the switch 3. we just crimped some pins on 22awg wire and put them in the oem connector, I have no doubt that isn't ideal 4. that power supply is very cheap but i do have a Agilent(HP) N5745A coming in next week that has software so I should be able to graph it, still probably not fast enough to get the inrush current though seems like the ultimate variable though is the door besides being old we also use it to test low volumes of replacement parts and before that engineering was using it so that switch connector is probably very worn out. automotive connectors aren't made to be connected and disconnected thousands of times let alone whatever wear might have happened to the motor. My issue is that this was supposed to be a simple experiment but even this window motor ended up being more complexed than necessary. I could have just used a resistor and an inductor to simulate the load of a motor and connected directly to a power supply and 2 dmm's one for voltage the other for current
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Keep me posted if you do I'm curious of the results. Does it maintain a fixed current-voltage ratio as does a resistor? Logarithmic? Exponential? I actually have a car door at work with a dc power supply wired up to test window switches, I might have to wait until my shift is over but I can record a quick video.
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How often should you change a serpinite belt?
andru replied to TRON's topic in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories
I have been using a goodyear gator back that is 2 sizes smaller than oem with my 320a mechman, it has been going for 2 years so far with no problems but i guess it all depends how much wrap you have on the pulley -
multiple batteries in winter?
andru replied to andru's topic in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)
temps usually don't go below -10deg F, 2 years ago we had a bad winter with a few days -35deg F which is starting to get close to the temp of dry ice but S see Massivespl is in Michigan and doesn't have any problems. -
multiple batteries in winter?
andru replied to andru's topic in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)
thanks for the input guys, i was just a bit worried that i might screw up the batteries or alt that i dumped a bunch of cash on. So on below zero days i'll just not go full tilt until the car and subs warm up, the extra weight of those batteries in the back i'm sure will help in the snow and ice -
multiple batteries in winter?
andru replied to andru's topic in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)
2 of the batteries aren't needed as of now but i'm saving for some new subs and bigger amps, so it's a pending upgrade at that i probaby wont be able to play high volume as much in the cold temps anyways to where taking a 3rd d5100 out would make sense -
winter time gets pretty cold in the chicago area, I currently have a d3400 under the hood and 4 d5100s in the rear with a 240a alt. do i risk damaging my batteries.... or my alt from those cold starts? I live in an apartment so i don't have the option to put it on a charger at night and i would think that if the cold temp is pulling the voltage low the the batteries would strain the hell out of the alt and wear down the batteries with a high current charge. I'm thinking i need to take them out when it gets cold anyone have any experience with multipe batteries in the winter?
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could you add me to the map? I'm in Itasca IL 60143 I have a dd-1, cc-1, hydraulic crimper, dmm and I can barrow a RTA text me 224-625-0416 or email [email protected]