Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by 02Blazer

  1. A 64ah Headway bank (Headway 38120HP) will be good for 6400-8000 watts ...
  2. you don't need to charge each cell individually , you line all cells up connecting all the positive together and then connect all negative together( NOT connecting the positive to negative !!) and let them sit to balance out (usually a day or two ) once you get them balanced , connect them in your pack(bussbars ,etc.) put an active 5amp balancer (NOT a BMS)wired correctly to the bank , charge with a lifepo4 charger to 14.4 , then connect to your vehicle . best way is to delete front battery and run everything off the Headway bank...
  3. for a 64ah Headway bank you need 32 cells, you'll be fine with your stock charging voltage , don't be concerned with tenths of a volt (14.4) if you charge at 13.6-14.6 you'll be fine . to build your own Headway bank you'll be around $600.00 , people will tell you cheaper but factoring all the stuff you need , 600 will be about there .
  4. they look to be the same tinsel material , just one weave was puller tighter then the other , meaning the wider one's weave is looser if you can envision that.
  5. the JY power battery is lifepo4 , max charging is 14.6 , LTO battery chemistry is the one that needs higher charging in the 15 volt range . my suggestion is to run the 270 amp alternator with factory charging voltage and then run the jy power battery , that's if you don't want to build your own bank (battery) , you could if you choose to build a Headway 38120hp bank of 64ah that will easily run your 5k plus your whole vehicle (do a front battery delete) .
  6. had a similar experience with jims , i ended up buying similar product from Toolmaker and i am very happy i did !! as far as machined parts and other accessories , i stick with SMD and Toolmaker ...
  7. can you change my name from toyonbags to 02Blazer , please! thank you
  8. put a d2700 in there , you should be able to fit it
  9. i also have a blazer and am about to do the big three , i see you didnt fuse the power wire to the alternator , do you think it should be fused ?? i know it's only a 12''-14'' run of wire and to me , putting a fuse between seems not nessasary , is that what you thought ?
  10. amazing deal !!! will be ordering one on friday , going in a 2002 s10 blazer , going to be powering 2 orion amps ( 1500.1DZ & 500.4 ) the sale is perfect timing .cant wait ...
  11. good luck then , hope it turns out the way you want it , just keep in mind what i said
  12. i mentioned the Cando arms cause i feel anyone looking into using Air Ride Tech. stuff is not trying to have to much fabbed and wants a DIY kinda setup .....
  13. if it was me , i would not use shockwaves for anything , use some 6" bags up front , those shockwaves' cost is ridiculus !!!! if i were you i would call up Cando Specialties and get some control arms from them for 760 bucks and buy some Slam Specialties RE6 bags , done deal here is the link for Cando Specialties , they have parts for nissans - http://www.candospecialties.com/
  14. which ever side the panhard bar is connected to the frame , when the vehicle is raised up , the axle will move the same way . the more lift , the more side to side travel . panhard bars are very popular on hotrods cause they have short ranges of travel . when you are looking at up to 10-15" of travel on most truck air suspensions , the panhard bar is just not a viable option .
  15. for the "roll steer" you are talking about , the triangluted bars or panhard bar takes care of that . the reason for the same size bars ( take a triangulated 4-link for example , the lower bars and the triangulated bars need to be the same length ) is to keep proper the proper pinion angle thru the axis(travel) of the 4-link . as far as the muffler/exhaust , you should have the end of the exhaust (muffler tip) end about a foot before the axle . for the end of the tip , use a turn down (aimed either at the ground or at least away from gas lines , airline and bags or any thing else that will be affected by the heat ) and about the panhard bar , what do you mean by it being "wide" ???
  16. as far as the length of the 4-link bars , keep them as close to the same length as you can !!!! if you say you have only a 1/4" space between your tire/wheel to your quarter panel , i really don't think you should go with the panhard bar , but that is your choice . if it was me , i would not even consider it .......
  17. i don't know about you but there is nothing better than flyin' down the freeway doing 100 mph dragging , throwing a mean ass shower of sparks
  18. that is not accurate at all !!! you might lose 1 hp , not even noticeable .these compressors have clutches on them so there is no power lost when they are not filling the tank . it takes about 35-55 seconds to fill a 5 gallon tank to about 200-250 psi , that's if it's empty , to refill the tank (when the pressure switch is activated ) it will take half of that . so to say you would lose gas milelage and horsepower is simply not true
  19. taking another look at it , i noticed it has a pan hard bar , not good !! if you run big wheels and have minimal tire clearence to the insides of your quarter panels or fenders , the panhard bar can and will rub cause the cycling of the rear suspension with a panhard bar will make the rear end move side to side . your best route with a six link would be to incorporate a wish bone . take a look at how KP components does there s10 kit , that is what you want to do for your full size truck .........
  20. that 6-link is fine , go with the poly bushing rod ends . they will last longer and if you do wear them out , they are easily replaced . just stay away from hiem joints , they make a bunch of noise and wear out quick !!!
  • Create New...