02Blazer

on their website it says their spl sub versions are 1200 rms , not 20,000 . is that for custom made ones ??? but damn , 71.33 mm x-max , thats a stout ass number for a 1200 rms woofer .......

put in a grand-am dash , you know what im talkin about , they look sick as hell plus your gonna have to switch out all the gauges and shit anyway . then glass the grand-am dash and it will look badass .........

the air bags/air struts or full air suspension for your car ????? if your talking about an air suspension system , for parts your looking at around 2200-3000 for a good kit including air struts and everything else . installation should run you around 1000-1750 . the parts are more cause of the strut bag assembly , but installation is less than for a minitruck , cause it's pretty much all bolt on (the struts just bolt in , that is if you get the specific model strutbag assembly for your year and model) so there is less install time and it's a hell of alot easier when you don't have to fabricate shit ......

yeah , if it doesn't work on the second go around , fuck it , ill just throw a couple of quarts of oil behind the seat for when it gets low

i wasnt using it as a gasket , just trying to patch up a oil leak around the head ......

thanks , i think i might just take BIG P's advice and just leave it to my mechanic , i dont want to fuck it up .........

im gonna try the RTV sealant one more time then wait for my mechanic fix it , i would probably fuck it up then i would be back to no truck cause i don't have more cash for another engine !!! i gots to use this truck to get some work going ..........

do they make one for a 22re motor ????

im still debating it ..............

thanks for the offer !!!! i think im gonna try the rtv one more time than if it does not work , i will have my mechanic show me how to pull the heads off and do it ''the right way'' ..... but again thanks for your offer , really nice to hear

i waited 24 hours i searched on the internet about RTV sealant and people said anywhere from 20 minutes - 24 hours , so i opted to wait 24 hours . i think ill try it again . ill post back if it works or not.............

i have never done nothing like that ( mechanisal wise ) i think i would fuck it up !!!! i just hate trying to remember where everything goes as far as hoses and plugs and stuff like that . even if i was to label them and take pictures , maybe , just maybe ...... i was hoping for a different kind of sealant or something ......

actually it rides very nice for the setup i have . my truck used to be on firestones and i ran nitrogen for about 3-4 months , when i re-did my system , i put in the slams and the viair 380's and it rides so much better . then again the differance is probably between the firestones and the slam specialties !!!!! nick works at slam specialties ??? they wont replace them ???

just got a used motor (22re) put in my toyota , the engine has a pretty good oil leak between the cylinder head and the block , my mechanic did it as a side job and couldn't fix the leak (didn't have time) and i didn't have the extra money to pay him to do it . he gave me some Mopar rtv sealant (black) and some brake cleaner , said to clean it real good and apply 2-3 thick layers of the rtv to the spot where its leaking , well i did this all last night , fired up the truck tonite and the oil is still leaking anybody know a fix for it besides pulling the cylinder head and re gasketing it ?????

it what's with the dual alternators ? you got a high watt system ?? anyhow , one day soon ill get a sanden , i can sacrifice some time on maintaining it ( oiling it , dumping the water trap ) i think the fill times are crazy fast and worth it . do you really think there is a differance between nitrogen and 12v compressor air ??? how are those old RS bags holding up ? the out side aint cracking on the bag is it , if it is , im pretty sure you can send them to slam specialties and they will give you free RE bags . dont ya just love slam specialties bags !!

if that sub has the 4'' voice coil then its rated at 1000 rms , 2000 peak . the hx2 was 500 rms , 1000 rms . so if yours is the power hx2 , you gots a beast there .

i have to route my lines around too much stuff , thats why i don't want to ''hard line '' my air lines . plus my fittings for my rear bags ( bags over the axle ) are mounted on the bottom instead of the top ( bag port is facing down instead of on top ) cause i got a stock floor bed and i load stuff in the bed ( im a tlie setter ), heavy stuff , so i dont want to risk damaging the port fitting if some thing were to dent the bed and cause it to damage the fitting . also i can access the fitting with out having to take off the bed to get at it .... wow , i be triple posting

BIG P's quote - Im running the old FBI 6 or 7 gallon tank. At 140 psi i cant even lock it out. I am running one big red compressor from fbi it takes a few minutes to fill i never timed it.............................................................................. ................................................................................ . ........................................................ i thought the '' big unit '' is rated at 200 psi ???? whats up with the 140 psi ??? what kinda bags are you running ???? my slam specialties ( re6's up front , re7's out back ) in the front lock up at 120 psi , the back locks up at 45-50 psi . i drive at 75-90 psi up front , 15-35 psi out back ...

why get (4) 480's when you can get a sanden !!!! you'll be able to fill a 7 gallon tank with a 165-200 psi pressure switch, IN 49 SECONDS !!!!!!!! you see why i want to get a sanden , ill be able to fill my 8 gallon tank in 55 SECONDS !!!!!!!!!! fuck the nitrogen , i used to spend $25-$50 every WEEK , i aint rich !! far from it !! so think twice before you buy mutiple 480's .

BIG P , your running a 5 gallon tank right ?? , does your compressor(s) turn on all the time when u hit switches ??? im thinking of going to a 5 gallon tank , right now im running a 8 gallon , the fucking thing is totally visible in the back of my truck since i got a stock floor bed ( its only 8.5''-9'' deep ) cause the 8 gallon is 11.5'' in height , if my compressors are gonna be on all the time ill just get 2 of the 5 gallon tanks . the aluminum 5 gallon tanks from F.B.I look nice all polished up , plus they are only like 8.5'' in height and they have 1/2'' ports on the face , the slim and skinny 5 gallon tanks ( firestone ) have 3/8'' ports . no likey !!!

the headder heat wrap tape is rated at 2000 degrees !!! when i get around to putting those parker 3/4'' valves and line on , im definatly gonna get some hoses made up !!! paker says they can make me up some with a high heat rating , damn , i love that store !!!! anyhow , i think the fix i put on it will work , i drove the truck for about a year with no problems till now ( knock on wood ! ) im just glad it was when i was pulling into my garage and not on the streets ............

just got the new ( used ) engine in my toyota yesterday . drove back from my mechanics shop , when pulling into my garage , the rearend started to air down , thought it was me leaning on a switch , but i wasn't . flicked the switch to air it up and it started to drop again .. so today i jacked it up ( no fun when your truck is body dropped , gots to jack it up a little then put the jackstands under the frame then go to the other side ,do the same , go back to the other side and jack it up again so i can make the jack stands higher , the n repeat it over again !!! ) got a bottle of soapy water and sprayed it over the rear air lines after i quickly put someair in the rear bags , heard a loud leak but couldn't find it till i repeated this twice . slid my heater hose ( running it over the line that is close to the muffler ) up the line and sprayed it down after i aired it up again , found a blistered hole where the heater hose was encasing it , WTF !!! the heater hose was not melted at all , but the line had deffinetly been melted . so my solution to this is - i cleaned off the hose with soap and water , dried it , then wrapped it in some extra headder heat wrap tape i had from last year when i had my 01' s10 blazer, installed some new line , ziptied it up , and im 100% sure it wont happen again . so what im saying is that heater hose is only rated at 250 degrees ! your muffler can exceed 700 degrees !!! so if you are running your air line close to your exhaust ( muffler , exhaust pipe , catlylic converter ) take an extra saftey precaution and wrap the heater hose with heat reflective tape ,the kind used on headers . im lucky i wasn't hauling ass on the freeway or in the middle of a turn and started to drag , most all of you know that dragging and high speed turns don't mix AT ALL .....

thats alot of cone area !!!! i hope he can tell me what JUST 4 would sound like !!!

same question to you , 4 sealed or 2 ported , how were you running yours ??

I WOULD LOVE TO BUY THOSE SUNDOWNS , but unfortunatly i aint got no $$$ so 8's sound good ?? then when i get some $ , i will get some . i just dropped all the cash i had into putting a used engine into my toyota mini-truck . it really sucks being broke !!!! anyhow , should i try to run 4 sealed or 2 ported ??? thanks for all the input !!!!