02Blazer

nice ride, would of been better if it was bagged, j/k lol. you runnin' acumulators ?? i wanted to '' juice '' my old blazer but thought twice and then decided to bag it but the p.o.s took a shit on me so i sold it to the junkyard !! if your gonna do a wall , you should build a new battery rack and have them in a row , all the way to the front. then move the pumps as close to the batteries as to make as much room as possible for amps and even more batteries for the system. it's gonna get crowded in there quick !! that would be nice to go with 3 or 4 alternators , that way you can charge your hydraulics batteries also , and never have to hook them up to a charger all the time. i just hope you never blow a hose or fitting off one of the pumps , that would kill your amps quick... good luck , put alot into planning.........

check out my pic in my signature, thats full lift in front , the back is about the same but the wheel wells are shorter in the rear i cant even untuck the rear tire , but I CAN TUCK THE LUG NUTS

i get hardly any , i told you i got a 50/50 4 link !!!! im gonna get some BLF flate plate upper control arms cause my stock ones hit the bag plate, thus limiting lift. i get enough in the front to turn all the way, but cause of the 50/50 , i can hardly get my rear wheels off any how , ill solve that with a super lift 4link.......

yeah enough lift for some.........

edit= thought this was recent, hope your doing good and have fully recovered............

i would think it would make them worse . the super pivot joint is looser , maybe if you flipped the bar around ( adjustable end on the axle )

you're , j/k...... one of these days ill learn how to put a you tube video in my post !!!!!! i f-cked that one all up !!!

what sub would you compare it to ???

you know ever since seeing the video of daddy's customs blue s10 busting that 3-wheel in the parking lot , i want that much lift on my toyota !!!

im wondering if it would make a differance if the bushing ends and tabs were 90 degrees off that 2x4 crossmember , do you think that it would be stiffer, kinda like a kp components 6link where the upper triangluated bars attach to the gas tank cross member.... just a thought , what do you think BIG P ???

in that video they're only getting about 10'' of lift max ( the one on hydraulics ) . some people say they're good , hotroders that use them alot tell me they're good for limited travel. if your gonna use one , i hope it works out for ya. when i get a bags on bar setup, im hoping to get like 20+ '' of lift ( ill get a telescoping driveshaft ) i want that ass end up high in the air , like im gonna f-ck it did you put your bags in the middle of the bar, is that why you dont get that much lift ??

johnny joints are super pivot joints ( suicide doors ) mega-flex joints (fbi ) , you really think those joints are gonna stop the flex ? you must have ALOT of play between your bushing ends and your tabs . are your trianglated bars at enough of an angle to cease all side-to-side movement. ( at least 30 degrees ) it just sounds to me like there is more factors than your bushings to be making your axle move side-to-side , unless you are talkin 1'' or less.. correct me if im wrong P.

instead of going out from the pumpkin with your upper bars , put the tabs closer to the wheels and go in to a crossmember ( |/\| ), i know you like that key board sketch !!!! , what im saying is triangle them in , like suicide doors wishbone 4link kit , that way you dont have to f-ck with the pumpkin. i hear you cant get much lift with a watts link , i was thinking of that but im pretty sure if your doing bags on bar setups , your lift is limited, the watts link works best for bags on axle setups. all the ones i see dont seem like they get more than 8-10'' of lift before the bars are pulling on each other, kind of the same princable as a 50/50 setup, yeah , i know , i got one on the toy... tell me what you guys think of the watts link..........

you know damn well you would of been stupid to buy that wreck , i hope you find something alot better for around the same price , just be patient .....

on their website they are listed for 1999.oo , way , way too much for me

was just checking them out and was wondering if anyone was running them and what they are like, they seem pretty bad ass... i haven't heard anyone mention them , i know they are VERY pricey, do they show up at the comps ?? 38mm x-max is pretty stout...

you missed the part about it has a 4link AND a panhard bar, haa haa ha !!! now is it a ''4 '' link, cause even a parralell ''4link '' is a actual 2 link , so you never know what some one has done to their shit ...............

i was just looking at a place that sells strutbag kits ( altered altitude customs ) and the kits they sell for your car have strut bags front and rear, so for sure you have to use strut bags.......... hit up F.B.I ( fender bender international ) they have kits for your car pretty cheap................

you have to use strut bags , your car is front wheel drive , correct ?? so you have mcpherson struts . so you are limited to just that . you see you dont have coil pockets in your lower control arms , you have the axles ( cv joint ) running between the lower and upper control arms . there would be no room for ''regular '' bags ( slam specialties , conti-tech , firestone , or air lift . you shouldn't have problems with them if they are installed correctly . DAVID should be looking at this sooner or later, he is the '' strut bag guru '' ( you like that david , ) he can answer alot of your questions if you have more about strut bag applications , hope this helped some.....

go to the other thread about the GM carrier cross member , you will see a white s10 on there , that's his................

now your on the right track !!! build it yourself and it will be just how YOU want it .

no problem, you should check your local classifieds , those first generation s10's are really cheap , i bet you you can find one for a grand or so . keep looking and find one thats runs good but the body aint so hot, that way you can talk them down in price , since you can do the body work yourself..........

well , didn't take pic's of the toy like i said, was tryin to sell my 91 4runner so i can fix it ( the bagged toy ) . so i will do it tommorrow for sure.

i myself personally WOULD NOT !! , there aint much left of that truck , he says its has a 4link AND a panhard bar , you use a panhard bar for a 2link, so it sounds like he doesn't know what he is talkin about on his own truck !!! you would have to put a pretty good amount of money to get it driveable, so my suggestion is to buy a complete truck and bodydrop it yourself and get new air suspension parts , 7 out of 10 times with a truck in that shape ,your buying someone elses nightmare, thats why they didn't finish it . you never know but if you price it all out , the difference between that one and one you can pick up for real cheap but running and functional, i am pretty sure you will see it would better to let that one go and get something like i mentioned !!! think long about it before you fork your cash over............. good luck

well let me know when !!!!! ill get those pictures of my toyota today, it's not in the best of condition, it aint no ''show'' truck , it's a daily dragger