02Blazer

do they make one for a 22re motor ????

im still debating it ..............

thanks for the offer !!!! i think im gonna try the rtv one more time than if it does not work , i will have my mechanic show me how to pull the heads off and do it ''the right way'' ..... but again thanks for your offer , really nice to hear

i waited 24 hours i searched on the internet about RTV sealant and people said anywhere from 20 minutes - 24 hours , so i opted to wait 24 hours . i think ill try it again . ill post back if it works or not.............

i have never done nothing like that ( mechanisal wise ) i think i would fuck it up !!!! i just hate trying to remember where everything goes as far as hoses and plugs and stuff like that . even if i was to label them and take pictures , maybe , just maybe ...... i was hoping for a different kind of sealant or something ......

actually it rides very nice for the setup i have . my truck used to be on firestones and i ran nitrogen for about 3-4 months , when i re-did my system , i put in the slams and the viair 380's and it rides so much better . then again the differance is probably between the firestones and the slam specialties !!!!! nick works at slam specialties ??? they wont replace them ???

just got a used motor (22re) put in my toyota , the engine has a pretty good oil leak between the cylinder head and the block , my mechanic did it as a side job and couldn't fix the leak (didn't have time) and i didn't have the extra money to pay him to do it . he gave me some Mopar rtv sealant (black) and some brake cleaner , said to clean it real good and apply 2-3 thick layers of the rtv to the spot where its leaking , well i did this all last night , fired up the truck tonite and the oil is still leaking anybody know a fix for it besides pulling the cylinder head and re gasketing it ?????

it what's with the dual alternators ? you got a high watt system ?? anyhow , one day soon ill get a sanden , i can sacrifice some time on maintaining it ( oiling it , dumping the water trap ) i think the fill times are crazy fast and worth it . do you really think there is a differance between nitrogen and 12v compressor air ??? how are those old RS bags holding up ? the out side aint cracking on the bag is it , if it is , im pretty sure you can send them to slam specialties and they will give you free RE bags . dont ya just love slam specialties bags !!

if that sub has the 4'' voice coil then its rated at 1000 rms , 2000 peak . the hx2 was 500 rms , 1000 rms . so if yours is the power hx2 , you gots a beast there .

i have to route my lines around too much stuff , thats why i don't want to ''hard line '' my air lines . plus my fittings for my rear bags ( bags over the axle ) are mounted on the bottom instead of the top ( bag port is facing down instead of on top ) cause i got a stock floor bed and i load stuff in the bed ( im a tlie setter ), heavy stuff , so i dont want to risk damaging the port fitting if some thing were to dent the bed and cause it to damage the fitting . also i can access the fitting with out having to take off the bed to get at it .... wow , i be triple posting

BIG P's quote - Im running the old FBI 6 or 7 gallon tank. At 140 psi i cant even lock it out. I am running one big red compressor from fbi it takes a few minutes to fill i never timed it.............................................................................. ................................................................................ . ........................................................ i thought the '' big unit '' is rated at 200 psi ???? whats up with the 140 psi ??? what kinda bags are you running ???? my slam specialties ( re6's up front , re7's out back ) in the front lock up at 120 psi , the back locks up at 45-50 psi . i drive at 75-90 psi up front , 15-35 psi out back ...

why get (4) 480's when you can get a sanden !!!! you'll be able to fill a 7 gallon tank with a 165-200 psi pressure switch, IN 49 SECONDS !!!!!!!! you see why i want to get a sanden , ill be able to fill my 8 gallon tank in 55 SECONDS !!!!!!!!!! fuck the nitrogen , i used to spend $25-$50 every WEEK , i aint rich !! far from it !! so think twice before you buy mutiple 480's .

BIG P , your running a 5 gallon tank right ?? , does your compressor(s) turn on all the time when u hit switches ??? im thinking of going to a 5 gallon tank , right now im running a 8 gallon , the fucking thing is totally visible in the back of my truck since i got a stock floor bed ( its only 8.5''-9'' deep ) cause the 8 gallon is 11.5'' in height , if my compressors are gonna be on all the time ill just get 2 of the 5 gallon tanks . the aluminum 5 gallon tanks from F.B.I look nice all polished up , plus they are only like 8.5'' in height and they have 1/2'' ports on the face , the slim and skinny 5 gallon tanks ( firestone ) have 3/8'' ports . no likey !!!

the headder heat wrap tape is rated at 2000 degrees !!! when i get around to putting those parker 3/4'' valves and line on , im definatly gonna get some hoses made up !!! paker says they can make me up some with a high heat rating , damn , i love that store !!!! anyhow , i think the fix i put on it will work , i drove the truck for about a year with no problems till now ( knock on wood ! ) im just glad it was when i was pulling into my garage and not on the streets ............

just got the new ( used ) engine in my toyota yesterday . drove back from my mechanics shop , when pulling into my garage , the rearend started to air down , thought it was me leaning on a switch , but i wasn't . flicked the switch to air it up and it started to drop again .. so today i jacked it up ( no fun when your truck is body dropped , gots to jack it up a little then put the jackstands under the frame then go to the other side ,do the same , go back to the other side and jack it up again so i can make the jack stands higher , the n repeat it over again !!! ) got a bottle of soapy water and sprayed it over the rear air lines after i quickly put someair in the rear bags , heard a loud leak but couldn't find it till i repeated this twice . slid my heater hose ( running it over the line that is close to the muffler ) up the line and sprayed it down after i aired it up again , found a blistered hole where the heater hose was encasing it , WTF !!! the heater hose was not melted at all , but the line had deffinetly been melted . so my solution to this is - i cleaned off the hose with soap and water , dried it , then wrapped it in some extra headder heat wrap tape i had from last year when i had my 01' s10 blazer, installed some new line , ziptied it up , and im 100% sure it wont happen again . so what im saying is that heater hose is only rated at 250 degrees ! your muffler can exceed 700 degrees !!! so if you are running your air line close to your exhaust ( muffler , exhaust pipe , catlylic converter ) take an extra saftey precaution and wrap the heater hose with heat reflective tape ,the kind used on headers . im lucky i wasn't hauling ass on the freeway or in the middle of a turn and started to drag , most all of you know that dragging and high speed turns don't mix AT ALL .....

thats alot of cone area !!!! i hope he can tell me what JUST 4 would sound like !!!

same question to you , 4 sealed or 2 ported , how were you running yours ??

I WOULD LOVE TO BUY THOSE SUNDOWNS , but unfortunatly i aint got no $$$ so 8's sound good ?? then when i get some $ , i will get some . i just dropped all the cash i had into putting a used engine into my toyota mini-truck . it really sucks being broke !!!! anyhow , should i try to run 4 sealed or 2 ported ??? thanks for all the input !!!!

that van is VERY badass !!!!!!

any one with any input on this ???? somebody has to have run 8''s , let me know if they get low like 10s and 12s , or not .. will running 4 of them get loud and low , or are they mid-bass sounding ,

i would LOVE to buy those woofers , i just dont have the funds right now , probably not for another month i doubt you will be selling them then , but if you do have them still , i will . sorry bro , i would love to help you out but i cant at this time .....

don't laugh , but something cheap , probably ma audio.....

im thinking of getting 4 8'' woofers , gonna be sealed cause of very limited space , my question is -- what will they compare to as far as output . i read the cone size chart , i want opinions on how they sound , so if you please , let me know........

this will be a good 1st timer project for you , the struts you can just bolt in . if you dont know how to wire and plumb the valves , go to F.B.I's website , they got a good diagram on there . they also show you how to wire and plumb the compressor . so take your time and be merticulous .. it will pay off in the end . if you got a PARKER store near you , get your fittings from there , imo , they make the best ptc ( push to connect ) fittings around ,cause thats the one area you dont ever want to skip on is fittings !!! DONT EVER GET YOUR FITTINGS FROM HOME DEPOT OR LOWES !!!!! hope things go good for you , if you have questions during the install , don't be afraid to ask on here .......

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