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  1. Actually just talked to the guy who built the box i have now, it is actually birch wood, not mdf. I couldn't tell because it is rhino lined, since it's a blow through box. He said birch is stronger. Anyone seen birch flex? or is it a pretty good wood to use for this?
  2. Hi Guys, was told recently that for big powerful setups, 3/4" mdf boxes might break apart. I don't see how if it's ported with a huge port, but i could be wrong? I was told this by a guy who builds alts and custom sub boxes, but i know plenty of other guys who do the same and they say 3/4" is just fine. Some other types of wood or fiberglass has also been experimented with but preferred is 3/4" mdf. What do you all think?
  3. Thanks AlpineNut, I had seen that video and the CT Sounds didn't do as well in that video as I thought it would. I know that Taylorfade tested it among others and it did well when wired down to .25 and rise up to .9. I am hoping my box and setup is big enough so that there is not much rise from 1ohm. I've read so much about rise and all the different views and opinions so theres no telling. I'm hoping that what I've read about larger boxes, nothing impeding the air flow, less resistance against the air, less rise. I know i'm probably not accurate with that, but I hope! I couldn't pass up on that ct sounds 7k though, I got it off a friend who had 2 and never used one of them for half the price. Brand new and never installed. On that video they had 2 extra xp3000's and d3400s. I have 2 d3400's up front and the limitless45 in rear next to box, so im thinking i'll have good enough juice. Anyone think I need to do anything differently?
  4. Hi guys, so I have a question on my electrical and want to see what you guys think about it. If it's enough to safely and efficiently power my system. Here goes. I have a blow thru box in the cab of my Silverado single cab with 2 15's DB Drive WDX K7. These are 3500 watts rms each. I have a CT Sounds 7000.1d which is supposed to make 7300 watts at 1 ohm. After rise and all that, I am wondering if it will make closer to 6800-7000, not sure, maybe less. The box is plenty big and I am hoping the rise isn't much. Ok for the electrical, I have on order a 370 amp alternator that will primarily run the audio. My stock 170 will run the truck electrical. I have been in contact with the maker of the alternator and he will help me isolate it. Got the dual bracket and belt already. Heres what im wondering. Is the 370 amp alternator and my limitless 45ah battery enough for this amp? I have always thought of it as 7000 watts rms...equals 700ah needed. The limitless is supposed to be like 4 100ah batteries. So 400ah from the limitless (I think) plus 370 ah at cruising speeds from the alt….770....should I be alright? Good enough electrical? What do you all think?
  5. Anyone know anything about this particular amp or the A7 series of competition amps? I can get a brand new one for 900 right now. Was looking to go Ampere 7500 but this A7 7500 for 900 seems too good to pass up. I like amperes 12.6v ratings though. Although I do have enough electrical to give either amp a good supply.
  6. Does anyone know if the DB Drive A7 7500.1 is any good? Does it do rated power if properly powered up? I have a chance to get one on the cheap to power my db drive wdx7k 15's....a pair of them needing 7000 watts rms at 1 ohm. I have 2 250 amp mechman alts....2 d3400 xs power batteries...and 3 xs mx2500 secondary batteries. Any info on this amp would be much appreciated. Thinking of going with ampere 7500.1 or dc audio 7.5k but this a7 came up on an offer way cheaper. Thoughts?
  7. Ron have you seen the amp dyno drag between the orion hcca 3000.1splx vs. The sundown scv 3000? It did like 7700 watts rms at 1 ohm...the orion. Thats crazy power. I am guessing that its because of all the batteries etccc they dyno them on. One thing i dont understand is that those dynos say 7700 watts rms at 1 ohm and 13.71 volts. So does this mean if your electrical...240 amp 250 amp or whatever alt and 2 or 3 batteries can maintain at 14volts...it will do that wattage?
  8. Ron...i have some mids and highs already on a separate amp. I am trying to get more bass...move more air. I had 2 8 inch sundowns under the back seat in a custom made ported to 32hz. Although it sounded nice inside. It was weak as soon as you stepped out the door. I got my hands on this blow thru with these competition db drives and I would just like to give them a good amount of power to hopefully move more air. My friend had them in his truck and with 1 a7 3500 db drive amp which probably doesnt even do 3500 and they were killer....super loud and would hit good. I want the same effect but i think they can do better. There are better amps out there and i have better electrical than him. I have another xs battery i can add.
  9. Someone locally told me the Orion HCCA3000.1DSPLX is legit. Although its rated for 3000watts rms, someone,...…. maybe BIGDWiz did a head to head with the sundown scv-3000d and it did like 7700 watts on a dynamic run, which is like listening to music is what i'm told. Could this be an option. These orions hcca seem to be underrated. the only issue I see with them is that they take 3 power and 3 ground inputs! i'll take a look at some of the others!
  10. I see that......I've seen a few videos of the 7k. Unfortunately they are hard to find now. Has anyone tried out the Banda Viking 8k. I don't like that they don't have a remote bass knob though or at least a connection for one. Any one have other suggestions. I have seen the db drive a7 7500.1, also hard to find but im told it doesn't put out the power it's supposed to. It struggles.
  11. Hi Guys! so....I got my hands on a custom built blow thru box with 2 db drive wdx 7k 15 inch subs. I am thinking of installing it in my truck and need suggestions on what amp to use. For my power I have a 250 amp mechman alternator, 2 xsd3400 batteries. Big three all around! These subs can handle 3500 watts rms each. I am hoping to stick to 1 amp as they are wired inside the box to 1 ohm with 1 output from the box. Any suggestions on what amp I can run? Has anyone used a banda7k or 8k or should I try another Brazilian or steer clear of the Brazilian amps. A friend had this setup and he was using a DB Drive A73500 and it sounded great. But that's 3500 split to both subs, so 1750 a sub. That's underpowered if you ask me! Your thoughts guys? thanks in advance!
  12. Thanks in advance to any help offered. Here is the issue. My head unit only has one rca for subwoofer preout. I have seen some head units with SWL and SWR distinguishing on them. My head unit only has one which is labeled subwoofer1. Here is the deal....i run rcas from my monoblock amp to the headunit But then i have a y splitter adapter so it receives the rca from amp and goes into my one sub preout. This sounds extremely nice and loud. However in this setup..if i put the blinkers i can hear the subs thumping a bit when nomusic is playing. If i raise up the windows...or dow....i hear the thump Through the subs again. If i stop at a drive thru..to order food....i turn off the trucks in cities Diesel and they can't hear me, and when I started back up again I can hear the subs thump. If I go back to the Y adapter and disconnect one of the RCA's coming from the amplifier then the thumps will go away however the system is nowhere near as loud. Any ideas? I have good ground going to the truck chasis. I am thinking upgrading head units but I want to get this one working.
  13. Got some DB DRIVE PRO AUDIO P3 6K Components. These are 8 ohm drivers/mids with 4 ohm tweeters with cross overs. 175 watts rms. Which 4 channel amps will work to power these components sufficiently? How does that work if the drivers are 8 ohm and most amps are 4 ohm. I would imagine that if you put 175 watts rms @ 4 ohms to the drivers, they won't take the 175 due to them being 8 ohm? Any suggestions on amp? I really like the CT sounds 125.4 but it's a bit pricey. I can get a DB DRIVE A7 125.4 for $230 new....is this a good option? How about the Massive Audio D8004 or any other suggestions? Thanks in advance!
  14. Update: I think my head unit may be too cheap for my setup, here's why. I got the SMD DD-1 and I set the eq's on my Head unit to flat. My HU is the DUAL DV625BH. I chose this model because it has 2 video outputs for 2 headrest dvd players. This way if I play something on the HU, it could be displayed to the headrest dvd's. It's pretty slick and I didn't know if other units did this...had 2 video outputs. Also, the rca's front/rear/sub are all 4 volt. This unit is also supposed to be CEA-2006 Compliant..so for $189...I thought it's a steal, even if the interface isn't as nice as more expensive head units. Well, attached the dd-1 to the units rca. I have a clarion xc1410 amp that gives my door speakers 50watts rms x 4. (BTW, This sucker is CEA-Compliant too and it really does more than 50 watts, I've busted 55watts rms kickers and right now I have the 75watt ones and they are taking a beating with this amp too. HPF set at 90.) I took one of the rcas coming to the clarion xc1410 and played the 1khz track on the cd and fired up the dd-1. I got up to volume 31,32 of 40 before the distortion light came on. I then proceeded to do the same for the subwoofer rca. I took the rca coming from the hu's rca into my monoblock and connected it directly to the dd-1. I played the track with 40hz db-0....and got to volume 24 tops before it distorted...then went down to 23 and it went away. volume 23 of 40 for the subwoofer output does not seem too good to me. Is my headunit to crappy for running my setup? I didn't even bother using the leads on the dd-1 into the amps speaker terminals to adjust the gain at this point. I figured something must be wrong. Most video's I've seen using the dd-1 get up to like volume, 38, 37 of 40. Any feedback is appreciated. other info: running a diesel truck, 2 batteries, no big 3, 2 gauge wire for power and ground, very little dimming of lights parked....hardly noticeable driving.
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