MECHMAN

That is correct. It even acceots the stock alternator plug.

It includes a dyno sheet, so you will see exactly what it does at all RPM's. We are very proud of our output curves.

No, yours is slightly different on the front half of the case. Same specs and performance though. This will fit vitrually any GM with a 2.2L 4 cylinder engine.

Considering that they are soldered rectifier connections on a 4G Ford, that is likely not the case. (it not like an SI or CS where there could be loose nuts on the stator leads) We use solder with a melting temp of 450+ degrees, and at that point the stator laquer and insulator sleeves will be smoking like crazy. Thanks fot the input though.

Everyone is going to be out of stock for a while, and you won't be able to get them for $300 anymore. (powermaster upped the price a ton)

$249 shipped- you're not going to get a custom machined competition alternator cheaper than that anywhere!

Actually you are incorrect, your output at idle WOULD be worse than stock. You can usually get some low RPM performance back by going to an overdrive pulley on the alt, but it all depends.

In order to produce and sell alternators that cheap, corners have to be cut. Not to say that it is a bad product per say, but low voltage at idle is typically a result of low amperage at idle. This comes from using a "hotter" stator, and an OE (cheap) rotor. Having custom rotors wound is not cheap, nor is having custom regulators built to handle the beefy custom rotor. Anyone can slam a $25 stator into a stock alternator and get 200 amps, but it takes a little more engineering to get good low RPM output- something to consider when shopping for alternators.

I guess he couldn't swing $4 for an adjustable battery hold down from walmart? :confused:

Sounds like a smoked stator. Usually this is caused by depleating battery too far, then starting the vehicle. It can also be casued by poor connections on the ground or positive alternator cable. Where is the alternator grounded? Where does the positive cable run? What size are the cables used? Did you use the ring terminals provided in the kit? How many watts? How many batteries? What was the lowest battery voltge that you encountered? BTW, the alternator is most likely damaged, and you are just driving around on battery power, that is why your voltage is 12.2 volts. Give me a call or PM me so we can get you an RMA # for repair.

PRICE LOWERED TO $299 SHIPPED

It ends up looking clean if you are carefull about how you route the cables. 3 ring terminals stacked on each battery terminal turns out looking OK.

Don't use the post adapters, just crimp 1/0 ring terminals on the cables and run a bolt through them into the battery. Cheap, clean and easy.

Just stack 2 300 amp fuses. You don't need a custom fuse block ,just some spacers between the fuses and some longer screws. It's a piece of cake.

I'll do them for $10 each if you still need some.

I still have this unit available. I know there is a lot of S10 guys on here.

oh, my bad. LOL.

You will need to buy a 1/2" shorter belt to get enough tension on it. I am fully aware of how tight it is on those cars, we have a kit that puts a late model large-case unit in that spot; it can be done.

The D3400 is slightly smaller than a 2400, it is the stock group size for your vehicle and will fit perfectly.

Bump.

Powermaster D3400 is a DIRECT FIT with the Ibar system, gives you the side post adapters and everything. ...and it is cheaper/performs better than an HC2400.

It is fine, leave the 5 rib pulley on. Dom probably puts the 5 rib pulley on because he doesn't have access to a smaller diameter 4 rib pulley. It needs to be smaller diameter than the stock pulley to get the low RPM output up. If you put the stock larger diameter 4 rib pulley on that alternator, it would kill the low RPM output. It doesn't hurn anything to have more ribs on the pulley than on the belt. The belt will just run on the inside 4 ribs of the 5 rib pulley.

Use a standard 40amp relay, it will keep the stress off of your head unit, and will supply a better turn on signal to the amps. You can get them anywhere for less than $5.

This unit is still available.

You probably won't have any dimming running just mids and highs, they just don't draw nearly as much power as subs do.