Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

About dudeogo

  • Rank
  • Birthday 07/22/2000

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Springfield MO
  • Interests
    Car audio, Cars, Saxophone, and guitar.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,577 profile views
  1. Well I wanted to. But it made more sense to tune higher. He had said it was 35hz but it looks more along the lines of 37 to me.
  2. Yeah sure. Ill post imgur links in just a minute
  3. Output and Demoing. It was originally supposed to be 30hz because the original goal was to be a hairtricker, but with the size of that port the box didn't have enough clearance to the hatch to mature a wave. So we opted to tune to where I got quite a bit of cabin gain instead
  4. Selling old equipment and getting ready for a rebuild. In the process of building a 8 cubic foot net box tuned to 37hz designed by CSCStang Customs. Subs will be 4 Deaf Bonce 27 12s at a 1 ohm final load on the Deaf Bonce 7800. Plans for electrical aren't set in stone yet. But I know I will be using Northstar Battery and Team GP alts. In my 2008 Mazdaspeed 3
  5. I would enter but I just had to take a leave of absence from work and I won't have any income for the next two months... The wall build will have to wait.
  6. you may just be wanting too much out of that system. I feel like it should be louder though.Why do you say your signal is clipping if you say you also set your gains with the DD-1? is the DD-1 saying there is distortion?
  7. Even though you tuned with a dd1, did you tune with your head unit at a reasonable level? for instance the highest my kenwood headunit will go without sending out a clip/distortion is 26/40 so therefore i tune my amps at 26. if you have your head unit too high your amp will distort regardless of gain.
  8. So I'm working on the design for a 4th order wall in my jeep. Still saving up and buying equipment so I have plenty of time on my hands. The question is, when constructing a 4th, is it required to have the full manufacturer spec sealed side for each sub/ should it be larger or smaller? 4 EVL 18s are going in my 98 ZJ Grand Cherokee
  9. People who always brag about their abilities, or what they have and they either cant back up what they say or what they have is shat. for example. kids at my highschool who say theyre master installers and say they're louder than me when they have 2 w0s in a prefab box on an off brand 1000 watt MAX amp ran with 4 gauge CCA...
  10. I had one SA 15 in a ported box in the trunk of my bonneville tuned to 34 hz and youre right the lows were shat below about 30-28. Stick with your two 12s just build a lower tuned box and/or 4th order. you want lows? do a 4th order with the port tuned to about 35 and the lows will be nuts! Not near as much upper bandwidth obviously though!
  11. dudeogo

    Bass is cutting in and out After Sub change.

    1/0 silver tinned OFC. And yes.
  12. dudeogo

    Bass is cutting in and out After Sub change.

    The amp was protecting, however it was because of a melted fuse block.... Everything is fixed now
  13. dudeogo

    Bass is cutting in and out After Sub change.

    I haven't yet had the chance to check if its going into protect or just cutting out. and no I'm not trying to get the same output. the gain is still at about 35/38% same ish as for 1 ohm
  14. Okay. I believe it still says it in my sig but ill repeat it just in case. I used to have an Alphard Audio Hannibal FX30D2 wired to one ohm on an Audio Pipe APCL1500.1 D. Worked great, zero issues. Recently I got a Skar EVL 18 D4 as part of my rebuild and have it wired in parallel for a 2 ohms impedance to my amp (which is one ohm stable obviously) For a while it worked totally fine, but then it would cut out at my highest volume I would play at (27 of 40) if I would turn it down to say 25, then back up to 27 everything would be fine and it would come back on. Now the bass will just totally cut out and I have to wait for it to come back on. I have 1/0 inputs into the amp. So Is my amp dying? Does my sub have a bad coil already? Is my voltage low without me knowing it? (never had voltage problems at 1 ohm so I don't know why I would at 2 ohms....) I have a 150 amp alternator and a group 34 under the hood.