dudeogo

I would enter but I just had to take a leave of absence from work and I won't have any income for the next two months... The wall build will have to wait.

you may just be wanting too much out of that system. I feel like it should be louder though.Why do you say your signal is clipping if you say you also set your gains with the DD-1? is the DD-1 saying there is distortion?

Even though you tuned with a dd1, did you tune with your head unit at a reasonable level? for instance the highest my kenwood headunit will go without sending out a clip/distortion is 26/40 so therefore i tune my amps at 26. if you have your head unit too high your amp will distort regardless of gain.

So I'm working on the design for a 4th order wall in my jeep. Still saving up and buying equipment so I have plenty of time on my hands. The question is, when constructing a 4th, is it required to have the full manufacturer spec sealed side for each sub/ should it be larger or smaller? 4 EVL 18s are going in my 98 ZJ Grand Cherokee

People who always brag about their abilities, or what they have and they either cant back up what they say or what they have is shat. for example. kids at my highschool who say theyre master installers and say they're louder than me when they have 2 w0s in a prefab box on an off brand 1000 watt MAX amp ran with 4 gauge CCA...

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9l Limited

I had one SA 15 in a ported box in the trunk of my bonneville tuned to 34 hz and youre right the lows were shat below about 30-28. Stick with your two 12s just build a lower tuned box and/or 4th order. you want lows? do a 4th order with the port tuned to about 35 and the lows will be nuts! Not near as much upper bandwidth obviously though!

1/0 silver tinned OFC. And yes.

The amp was protecting, however it was because of a melted fuse block.... Everything is fixed now

I haven't yet had the chance to check if its going into protect or just cutting out. and no I'm not trying to get the same output. the gain is still at about 35/38% same ish as for 1 ohm

Okay. I believe it still says it in my sig but ill repeat it just in case. I used to have an Alphard Audio Hannibal FX30D2 wired to one ohm on an Audio Pipe APCL1500.1 D. Worked great, zero issues. Recently I got a Skar EVL 18 D4 as part of my rebuild and have it wired in parallel for a 2 ohms impedance to my amp (which is one ohm stable obviously) For a while it worked totally fine, but then it would cut out at my highest volume I would play at (27 of 40) if I would turn it down to say 25, then back up to 27 everything would be fine and it would come back on. Now the bass will just totally cut out and I have to wait for it to come back on. I have 1/0 inputs into the amp. So Is my amp dying? Does my sub have a bad coil already? Is my voltage low without me knowing it? (never had voltage problems at 1 ohm so I don't know why I would at 2 ohms....) I have a 150 amp alternator and a group 34 under the hood.

Thanks for this video! I have been waiting for a real dyno!

No, but thats a good idea. I mean like this where the entire ported box is open. (Hopefully pics work) these are the same subs I'm getting for the same vehicle this box went in.. https://imgur.com/gallery/rL4D5

So I've seen on a lot of 4th order enclosures the ported section of the box is basically just missing one side and it's almost as if the entire box itself is the port? How does that work with box size, and how do I find tuning for that? Just wondering it's been driving me crazy. Any answers are appreciated!

Yeah I figured that's how it works. I change my mind on equipment so often that i figured I'd have changed my mind by the time someone replied lol!