Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

11 Good

About Sequoia_Bass

  • Rank
  • Birthday 05/31/2000

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Spring hill, TN
  • Interests
    I enjoy developing my skills and growing in my passions.

Recent Profile Visitors

1688 profile views
  1. Psi audio also has a 10inch for $170 its the bassline 10. there is also a HP upgrade that allows for more power. You can also customize the sub alittle.
  2. In my current box design i have 2 6.25x6.25 ports that are basically weird L's. Inside the box the two ends meet parallel two each other. My question for today is how close can they be to each other. Currently i have them planned out to be 3.5 inches apart am i going to experience negative effects? The tops of the ports out of the box are already 3 inches from the glass of my trunk lid so its a tight fit.
  3. I was able to get a port configuration figured out. 2 6x6 inch ports tuned to 33hz, not the best port area but plotting it in winsid it should be louder than my test box was, with a broader bandwidth too. The test box did have some port noise but not too bad for me to forfit it. the new box design with new ports will have 14.4 square inches of port area per cube vs the 11.4 the previous test box and port has. It's not ideal but for limited space i found it to be the best for what i wanted.
  4. i totally understand your system being under construction, good luck. props to you for dealing with limited space though. unfortunately i only have 3 inches from the top of the box to the trunk lid. and then i have about 16-10 inches of box depth best case i could fit a 10inch port without a bend haha. i did try a single 8 inch port tunned to 30hz tonight, same style as yours and it was better than i excpected but i had port noise, i know there is potential being wasted. also it took 28inches so, 8 inches were sticking out of the box wich wouldn't let the seats fold up. want to trade cars haha. maybe a slot port is the only way to go with this system. it just takes up so much air space for the amount of actual port area you're getting. and less efficent than aero ports
  5. While shaking your car is fun when you first get into larger subs. After you progress into it more you'll find out that any flex you have is just db's being lost. i'd focus on a more balanced system. Buy a single larger sub, take time to make a nice ported enclosure.And spend time bracing and sound deadning your ride. not only will bracing and sound deadning your ride makeyou louder but it will always help reduce hearing any rattling when playing music. Wich makes it easier to hear the music your playing. Rattling doesn't sound good, i know being heard far away is impressive to some, but rattlling isn't. I used to want to make coins dance ontop of my roof when i was first starting out, now i'm trying to be braced and sound deadned so well that a coil won't move when i'm full tilting. the latter is alot harder Save up, take your time, and know there isn't a rush to enjoy your passion. Everytime you hear someone who's loud, or is louder than you, know that where you are now is better than where you were before. that's how i see it, it's not a competition with anyone else, only with yourself.
  6. nice setup you got there, got a youtube i could check out? always enjoy watching peoples progress vids. i need to somehow fit the ports onto of the box for two main reasons, first the only good space for the port/s is onto of the box... the mids and highs amps along with some fusing needs to be on the back of the box. The sub amp (ampere audio 3800.1 with sub wired at .35ohms )will be on the front of the box(viewable with the trunk lid open). battery of course under the box. The second reason being is that since it's a hatchback/liftback style trunk, the best configuration in my opinion is for the port and sub to be positioned ontop of the box firing toward the trunk lid. now A 8 inch port wouldn't be too bad to fit into the box except that it would need a 90 degree bend. i could have 3 inches out of the box, about 5 ish inches down then the bend and then about 20 inches till it hits the sub magnet. thats with the same box as pictured with the sub all the way to the left of the box. now if i could get sub and port somehow configured to where the port can extend beside the sub then i'd gain another 6 inches of port. i'd like to tune it under 33hz. 28-30hz would be great but 31-33 is totally fine. i know due to my space i'll have to compromise somewhere in the box. that's what i'm having trouble with, is designing it to be the most efficient with the compromises The only thing is that on the amount of power i'll be on, a 8 inch port is too small. after bracing, and sub i have 5.02cubic feet net to work with. not a whole lot of space to still cram a port in there aswell. i was totally spoiled having my old car, a 2006 toyota sequoia with no rear seats. i had a 8 cubic foot box gross,6 cubic foot net tuned to 31hz doing 148.3db at 33hz wich would be nice to have in the scion tc but sadly i don't think ill reach or surpass those numbers until i wall the car off or loose the back seats, i want that to happen but not for several years
  7. haha yes it was a tight fit. I had to fold the rear seats down, pick the box up over the trunk as far into the vehicle as i could and then drop it down and slide it back.
  8. One of the things many people face with limited box space is fitting a decent port in. I'm having trouble even designing a port for over 12sq inches per cube wich is way too small. I have a 2015 scion tc, the tire well is so shallow i had to weld in a frame so i could fit a batter under the sub box. I have the frame and then a "false floor" then the box. the usable dimensions for my space after the false floor is 38'' wide 24.25'' deep 18'' high at the back and then 11.25'' at the front. 18 inches at the back is pushing it though i would rather it be 16. but 18 is totally fine if i helps. I already made a box with these dimensions. except it is 16 inches high. although with the 16 inch high back i had to put another panel ontop of the box because the sub was taller than the enclosure. my trouble though is that i'm having a really hard time fitting both the sub(sundown zv5-15) with the ports. i'm going to have to make a new box but i was wondering if anyone was willing to assist me with designing the new one. p.s the welding done on this was my first welding project, it's not pretty but it's strong.
  9. the whole panel starting from the back of the door/b pillar to the back of the car is unbraced. now i was able to sound deaden and brace alot of the panel using sound deadner and expanding foam. The open area behind the speakers in the 3rd and 4th pic is the only place i was unable to brace. Would a few wood shelf braces glued with loctite x8 be okay for this area?
  10. Not sure if there are any places to use rivet nuts but tonight i'll take out the interior plastic panels starting from the b pillar and going back and post some pictures. I just read your post about bracing last night and thought about using wooden shelf bracing and loctite plx8. But i've seen mixed thoughts on using loctite plx3 or x8 for roof bracing. The panels will deffintely not see as much flex as a typical unbraced roof though.
  11. I just bought a 2015 Scion tc and have a system planned out. but i'm wanting to brace the inner panels of the car before i start building. It's not going to be walled off(yet) and so alot of the car will be vulnerable to flex. I'm wanting to use angle iron cut to the length of the panels and weld it on. My question though is how thick does the metal need to be to be effective. and will welding on the inside of the car make the paint bubble or burn on the outside? If so is there any way to prevent it? I'm putting a Sundown zv5-15 on a ampere audio 3800.1 in a 6cu ft box tuned to 32hz. I put a psi platform 1 15 in to test it (hooked up to a house amp) and it was already flexing :-( There are some areas of the car that i will just use sound deadner like rear hatch area or headliner. but i'd really like to brace as much of the car as i can. If i cannot weld the metal, are there any metal to metal adheasives strong enough to make a secure bond? or would using wood and a strong adheasive work? Any input would be great
  12. This is one of my favorite Topics,Good reason it's pinned. So much information to absorb
  • Create New...

SMD Chat Room

SMD Chat Room

Please enter your display name