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Don Hammond

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About Don Hammond

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  • Birthday September 11

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    Portland Oregon
  • Interests
    Car Audio, Golf, Work

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  1. Yes I metered all my wiring I always do, being an electrician that's always my first rule. Test for opens, shorts, ground faults and impedance before anything goes live. It is not clipping all gains have been set accordingly using a DD-1. The DM 608 also has a clipping indicator for each active input and there is no clipping coming from the headunit into the DM 608. I am thinking it is a Kenwood issue even if its rated for 2ohm mono on the 5th channel it does not like it if it goes a little below that while playing. I will install the sound digital tonight and see if it has the same issue.
  2. No good ground, 13.35V when running and volume up , all wiring is skyhigh OFC 1/0 & 4/0. I even did the big 3. I thought it could be a loose wire from the DM 608 Remote out but I double checked everything and nothing is lose. She wants a small system so I figured a 5 channel amp. I have a sound digital 4 channel and a sound digital 1200.1 2ohm evo maybe I will throw those in there and see if they do the same.
  3. My wifes has a 21018 Mazda CX5. The Kenwood amp shuts down while playing music and sometimes when she is on the phone. The amp i heard shuts off when it goes into protect mode and you physically have to shut off the car and turn it back on for the amp to turn back on. The few times my amps ever did this they come out of protect mode after i turn the volume down. Is this a Kenwood issue. Is there a better 5 channel amp that I could go with? I am curious if when the base hits and the sub drops slightly below 2 ohms is it causing the amp to go into protect mode. I don't know much about the Kenwood amps so any help would be great Factory head unit Audio Control DM608 Front Focal PS 165 v1 4ohm Rear Focal AC 165's 4ohm Sub DC Audio Lev 3 D4 12 wired to 2 ohms Amp Specs CEA-2006 Standard 60 W x 4 RMS Watts per channel @ 4 ohms, 1% THD+N 400 W x 1 RMS Watts per channel @ 4 ohms, 1% THD+N 78dB Signal to Noise Ratio (Reference: 1 Watt into 4 ohms) Max Power Output - Rated Power Output 14.4 V 60 W x 4 / 400W x 1 (4Ω) (20 Hz - 20 kHz, 1.0% THD) (20 Hz - 200 Hz, 1.0% THD) 75 W x 4 / 600W x 1 (2Ω) (1 kHz, 1.0% THD) (100 Hz, 1.0% THD)
  4. Awesome the Helix was the other one I was looking at. I appreciate the input ToNasty
  5. Thank you, have you used the GUI, the dm 608 is ok but was hoping this one is better
  6. Does anyone have this DSP unit. I am looking at getting it. I had an audio control DM 608 but installed it my wifes car as she has a factory head unit. I am looking at getting a new one. any thoughts, Ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
  7. I am currently running 4 dc audio level 3's. 2 subs to each amp @ 2ohm. kicker 2400.1. You cannot strap them but you can go from output amp1 to input of amp 2. If your speakers are in the same enclosure make sure your gains are set exactly the same on both amps. If each sub is in a separate enclosures they need to be set super close to the same. I took mine down to a few shops and no one had the Oscilloscope or DD1 to set them the same. I used ohms law and a multimeter
  8. Go on Facebook to BBE $35 dollars for the design. You build I have a 2016 f 150 with 4 dc audio custom Lev 3 10's that I am currently building a enclosure for. (I Removed back seat) He did the design to my specs and communication was awesome.
  9. Man I cant wait to hear how those sound and what you think, my buddy has the same truck and that's all I have been telling him about....he is new to the car audio world. I figured this setup or something close would be a good start ...Keep us posted
  10. You can try Apex alternators. apexhighoutputalternators.com. I am running 390 amp alt it was less than 600.00. I agree I would not go below 1 ohm load on the daily driver.
  11. Yes. If the sub failed do to manufacture issue they will replace it for free, if it blew do to abuse, misuse etc they will charge you. When the Q class L7 first came out they had a lot of problems with them. I went thru a few of them & kicker replaced them free each time


  12. I hate this forum 😂😂. Ever since i started watching these damn videos, I keep spending money now, new amps, new subs, new alt, new batteries, SMD fuse holders, distrabution blocks, wire. Have not built a system since late 199O's early 2000....It all started with Robs bucket O bass video

  13. Yea I found out last night, searching and finally found a video. I sent an email to kicker to see if they have any other info. Thanks Mike
  14. Ok I will try and give more details this time lol. Apex alternator rated @ 390 amps, 2 xs power d3400 batteries, 2 KXA 2400.1 rated @ 2400 watts ea, 2 Q class 500.4 rated @ 500 watts ea RMS, 4 DC audio level 3's d2 with level 4 LR surround, just purchased. I ran 2 1/0 OFC SHCA power from front battery to rear(15' run), fuse holder as both ends. One SMD dual fuse holder after the front battery and one SMD dual fuse holder before the 2nd battery. From the 2nd battery I ran 2 1/0 to distribution block, from distribution block to SMD Quad XL fuse holder. I am going to fuse each amp as recommended, but what i am looking for is the fuse size between the batteries. I thought the bigger the fuse the better. Am I wrong?
  15. hmmmm well i guess i will find out when i get it all hooked up, it does have RCA input and output so whats the point of the RCA out if you cant mirror them at least
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