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Don Hammond

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About Don Hammond

  • Rank
    120db
  • Birthday September 11

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Portland Oregon
  • Interests
    Car Audio, Golf, Work

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  1. Yes I metered all my wiring I always do, being an electrician that's always my first rule. Test for opens, shorts, ground faults and impedance before anything goes live. It is not clipping all gains have been set accordingly using a DD-1. The DM 608 also has a clipping indicator for each active input and there is no clipping coming from the headunit into the DM 608. I am thinking it is a Kenwood issue even if its rated for 2ohm mono on the 5th channel it does not like it if it goes a little below that while playing. I will install the sound digital tonight and see if it has the same issue.
  2. No good ground, 13.35V when running and volume up , all wiring is skyhigh OFC 1/0 & 4/0. I even did the big 3. I thought it could be a loose wire from the DM 608 Remote out but I double checked everything and nothing is lose. She wants a small system so I figured a 5 channel amp. I have a sound digital 4 channel and a sound digital 1200.1 2ohm evo maybe I will throw those in there and see if they do the same.
  3. My wifes has a 21018 Mazda CX5. The Kenwood amp shuts down while playing music and sometimes when she is on the phone. The amp i heard shuts off when it goes into protect mode and you physically have to shut off the car and turn it back on for the amp to turn back on. The few times my amps ever did this they come out of protect mode after i turn the volume down. Is this a Kenwood issue. Is there a better 5 channel amp that I could go with? I am curious if when the base hits and the sub drops slightly below 2 ohms is it causing the amp to go into protect mode. I don't know much about the Kenwood amps so any help would be great Factory head unit Audio Control DM608 Front Focal PS 165 v1 4ohm Rear Focal AC 165's 4ohm Sub DC Audio Lev 3 D4 12 wired to 2 ohms Amp Specs CEA-2006 Standard 60 W x 4 RMS Watts per channel @ 4 ohms, 1% THD+N 400 W x 1 RMS Watts per channel @ 4 ohms, 1% THD+N 78dB Signal to Noise Ratio (Reference: 1 Watt into 4 ohms) Max Power Output - Rated Power Output 14.4 V 60 W x 4 / 400W x 1 (4Ω) (20 Hz - 20 kHz, 1.0% THD) (20 Hz - 200 Hz, 1.0% THD) 75 W x 4 / 600W x 1 (2Ω) (1 kHz, 1.0% THD) (100 Hz, 1.0% THD)
  4. Awesome the Helix was the other one I was looking at. I appreciate the input ToNasty
  5. Thank you, have you used the GUI, the dm 608 is ok but was hoping this one is better
  6. Does anyone have this DSP unit. I am looking at getting it. I had an audio control DM 608 but installed it my wifes car as she has a factory head unit. I am looking at getting a new one. any thoughts, Ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
  7. I am currently running 4 dc audio level 3's. 2 subs to each amp @ 2ohm. kicker 2400.1. You cannot strap them but you can go from output amp1 to input of amp 2. If your speakers are in the same enclosure make sure your gains are set exactly the same on both amps. If each sub is in a separate enclosures they need to be set super close to the same. I took mine down to a few shops and no one had the Oscilloscope or DD1 to set them the same. I used ohms law and a multimeter
  8. Man I cant wait to hear how those sound and what you think, my buddy has the same truck and that's all I have been telling him about....he is new to the car audio world. I figured this setup or something close would be a good start ...Keep us posted
  9. Yes. If the sub failed do to manufacture issue they will replace it for free, if it blew do to abuse, misuse etc they will charge you. When the Q class L7 first came out they had a lot of problems with them. I went thru a few of them & kicker replaced them free each time

     

  10. I hate this forum 😂😂. Ever since i started watching these damn videos, I keep spending money now, new amps, new subs, new alt, new batteries, SMD fuse holders, distrabution blocks, wire. Have not built a system since late 199O's early 2000....It all started with Robs bucket O bass video

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