Ford302Redneck

Yeah, almost all subs(for the most part) will play music of so sort. As that is the idea behind them all. But the Z doesn't have the cooling to play anything for long. Also the suspension isn't going to allow for much. As it will play music, it wasn't designed for that purpose, so why do it? Its like me using my mustang to tow my enclosured 20ft trailer. Sure it will do it, but my F-250 is designed to do it way better.

Yeah, I don't personally like 182db @65hz, but it's all in competition..And I'll respect the time and effort people put in those cars Why does everybody say this? Its like you got a nice fast street car, then saying, I personally don't like top fuel cars, but I respect the time and effort. Number chasing can be VERY addicting. Just cause you can't listen to music on it, makes it no good? A lot of people hate on extreme cars, but in al honesty, we need more in this sport. SPL is dead cause nobody wants to spend the time building a real install. Everybody wants to buy loud.

That's what it said on the old site too. I'm guessing that's a pure SPL sub? You got to be kidding me? You didn't know the Z is a SPL sub? Its hard to give a rating to a SPL sub. As it is not designed to take X amount of power for 5mins plus. That's why it doesn't have a real RMS rating. Yes it will take plenty of power for 1-2sec, but all depends on your setup.

I'd honest buy 6.5s and make adapters. Running mids off headunit power isn't "bad", you just won't get the full potential out of them. Go with a component set, then add a amp later. You can find plenty for ~100, that have good quality.

It doesn't have to be audio wire, but it has to be similar. Like posted welding wire works great. I personally like Knukonceptz, I've had good luck with anything I've got from them and reasonable priced. I defiantly would get 1/0+.

I honestly wouldn't use that wire. Just cause it was gave to you, doesn't mean you have to use it.

Not terrible. I've seen a lot worst.

Why is everybody putting limits on internet? Can't have unlimited and then take it away.

Bump

Yes, but going off of budget and what I would do are two separate things. But in the space provided, I'd like the XL better. Personal preference though I'm not 100% what a XL cost people. I know dealer. And I know the BL is cheaper... And I don't really think a BL needs a big box, I've heard a 15 in 4cuft and it wangged. And I've built a burp box of ~2.75 cuft for the same 15, and it done very well. 147 off a 1500watt amp, in a trunk car with no real testing. That's legal dash score btw. Outlaw was 149.

BL is cheaper than a XL. Lol. I mean I have different prices than what you can get. I can get AA cheaper than FI, so that's my next choice. I also can get DC but I like AA prices better.

I personally like Fi BL's, with anything less than 2k rms... They can really get low, but also have tight loud upper end bass compared to the Q and SSD.

Two 250s? I'd assume?

Bump

I think you have that backwards. Long bass note can really drain a battery and then u have to wait to charge it back up. But with multiples alternator your producing current all the time. A battery is only storage. For music, alternators are better hands down.

Eso, Puil, Soundmagus....those are the top 3 amp buildhouses, as far as quality control and technology go for entry to mid level amps...to step up you have to go to Britain and the US To step up to what? If I were looking for a couple nice sub amps, and highs amps, where would I look? I remember back in the day it used to be easy to judge amps, and you knew what was good and what was shit... Its a little different now days... I know JL has brought back a lot of their Higher end to being made in the USA again... Too bad others don't follow... Only good thing about Made in the USA is usually quality control. Not that we make better stuff, we just make sure all is made up to par in most cases.

Lol, I didn't call anybody stupid, damn man. I'm just saying, for 3.5kw, I would be doing a little more to my electrical than just one good battery up front and one H/O alt, my Mechman and my Kinetik under the hood was all I did for 2kw, I'm putting a few more batts in the back for only 4kw, and I'm sure I'll still see more voltage drop than I'd like. I was just saying, in most cases for that kind of power, they probably already have an axillary battery in the rear so that the run of wire would be short enough it wouldn't matter. There are exceptions to every case, like two batteries up front, but I was just speaking in generalities. I'd have like to see it have a second set of inputs too, but I can see why they deemed it unnecessary. Which could be part of the way they were able to keep costs down as much as they could and still deliver a great quality amp. Not trying to call people stupid, just saying my opinion. I'd rather have 1 H/O alt with auxillary batteries in the back by the amps than one good battery up front with multiple H/O alts. Why would u rather one back battery than multiple alts?

i know but its DD Just DD's name on a amp. not the amp the sub.... 2 DC 5ks on 2 9515s Gay. Lol.

Eso, Puil, Soundmagus....those are the top 3 amp buildhouses, as far as quality control and technology go for entry to mid level amps...to step up you have to go to Britain and the US Few weeks ago I was doing some research on buildhouse. I couldn't find out to much information. But then again I didn't know where to look.

i know but its DD Just DD's name on a amp.

Seems Sundown=DC, so whichever you can find cheaper. I'm sure DD won't be the cheapest lol. Unless you get lucky.

What if I have two alternators and two batteries up front? Do I need a battery in the rear just cause my amp only has one set of input terminals? You don't need a bank of batteries for 1 3.5k amp. In most cases a good H/O and a decent battery upfront will handle 4k plus... So what's your point? You calling people stupid who actually have multiple alternators instead of batteries?

I don't see where it makes any difference if you have your gain properly set with 2volts then... But whatever floats your boat. I don't mind having my gain turned up if I know I'm not clipping.

Maybe the DC amp doesn't make enough power to call for them... I'm sure their was reasoning behind it. I'm not sure it, as they are not my amps. I don't know the cost/performance difference. But I hope it was tested. they most likely make the power with no problem. i ran my AQs 3500D.1s on 1 set of terminals for MECA to lower my class and i lost absolutely no performance out of them. i don't see them not being able to make the power Was the wire a short run to a bank of batteries? Or from the front battery?

Well in adding a battery situation, it is best to match battery types. And wet cell is not good for trunk/inside car. Therefore needing two dry cell batteries, which could cost about the same as a H/O alt. Either way your going to spend ~500 dollars. I just like having current on tap instead of worrying I'm draining my batteries.