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3000iphones

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About 3000iphones

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    120db
  • Birthday 01/09/2000

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    Male
  • Location
    Detroit

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  1. the electrical in this car has been so damn confusing/annoying. my voltage is substantially lower/very inconsistent while idling in drive than park (between 13.0-14.0). only my rear deck speakers whine/buzz when i press the gas petal (even in acc, car off) or when the engine revs. the HU ground has been revised, and i've also bought ground loop isolators, ran with and without grounding. crescendo s4 4 channel amp (4 ga) ground has been changed multiple times, though i haven't tried grounding the amp itself directly to the alt, rear battery, or to the frame. my rear batte
  2. it's OFC wire by the way, a mixture of GP, rockford, and sky high.
  3. the battery voltages are very similar after sitting with the engine not running. you're correct, the rear battery's voltage is lower while idling. my rear battery is grounded twice to the frame with short runs of 2/0. the battery is located damn near directly above the frame grounds, so the wires are being pulled pretty tight. the only thing i can do is check them over again, but i clean the metal and tighten the shit out of them every time. my car, a mercury grand marquis, for whatever reason, regulates voltage in a way that any RPM i sit at gives the same amount of voltage at idle
  4. i have a 290a singer. (idle: 240+A, 315 peak). two 1/0 power coming off alt to front battery plus factory power. two front battery grounds: one to frame, one to alt.
  5. my rear battery is grounded twice to the frame with 2/0. front battery is grounded to the frame and alt with 1/0. i revised both grounds multiple times to make sure they're sound. im running two smart 3's maxed out. if that isn't scientific enough, i can probably look into how much power is actually being used.
  6. hello, back with more electrical issues/questions. i'll try to make this simple. my front battery "NAPA Power no.65" 70 Ah, cca: 675 A, ca: 830 A, sits around 14.1-.6 at the front battery terminals while idling, and from the few times i've checked, my d3400 starts around ~13.1 and creeps up to ~13.5 while idling. i charged my d3400 last night with hf1215 and it sat at 12.9 before putting it in. 2 runs of 1/0: front battery -> dual fuse -> rear fuse holder -> rear battery, though the connection from front to rear battery is unfused in the trunk. i just realized, maybe
  7. continue doing research into that evo if that's what you want, but just from my experience, my taramps smart 3 has been perfect to me. i've been beating it's ass for months and it's running strong. planning on running another one alongside it. very good on voltage, and safe taking voltage drop, though i keep mine above 13 usually.
  8. it's body on frame. may as well ask. what type of battery charger would you suggest to charge an agm and lead acid?
  9. me removing the rear battery didn't do much besides lower voltage under load. singer suggested an aftermarket voltage regulator so i can boost idle voltage myself up from 13.9-14.4 max.. would a higher idle voltage gain anything noticeable under load, or is it just for show? honestly, i could run it as is.. idling i rarely drop into mid 12s. singer also suggested adding a second d3400 to the trunk, and i was thinking about running two smart 3s eventually. i bought an md-5k from a taramps dealer and the fans didn't work, so i don't know if i should try another one or just double up.
  10. i went to singer with some questions. maybe he knows some common or uncommon issues with his or any brand alts. i'll still do some testing on my end. sorry for all the problems! this doesn't seem very usual, so i hope it's something simple.
  11. i checked the front battery instead of alt, so i'll check that today. i'm losing about .3 from front to rear batteries at idle. i'm checking from the batteries themselves. my interior voltmeter reads at the sub amp, and i checked front to back with a dmm multiple times. interior voltmeter hasn't been calibrated for a second battery, but it still reads the same as the dmm, just for reference. i do want a battery charger, i was just hoping since the battery is relatively new i'd be good for a while. thanks for the suggestions.
  12. hello. i know it's hard helping people with electrical issues over the internet. to sum it up, i grounded my rear battery with one 1/0 and one 2/0 wire, about 8/10 inches, about as short as it could be while making the wires easy to work with. i grounded both amps separately and hard to the body on clean metal, bolting through like i was told, which was easier than i thought it'd be. one 1/0 coming from the front battery and one 1/0 from the rear battery onto the fuse block with one 4 gauge coming off and one 2/0. front battery grounded hard onto alternator case and frame with stock grou
  13. i'm gonna ground the smart 3 to the left side frame, ground the battery to the right side frame with two 1/0 or 2/0 grounds, and try to nut and bolt the 4 channel.
  14. or i could get someone to help me nut and bolt it from below.
  15. i cut the hole for the existing frame ground with my drill and a step bit. i'm gonna cut another one on the right side for two battery grounds. i don't know why i didn't think of this, but i can do the same on the left side for the sub amp(s) and send those to the other side of the frame. the wire in the picture is 4ga, so i should be fine self tapping it, huh? i have waterproof grommets and have the existing hole cut under the carpet and out of sight.
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