Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About 3000iphones

  • Rank
  • Birthday 01/09/2000

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

170 profile views
  1. continue doing research into that evo if that's what you want, but just from my experience, my taramps smart 3 has been perfect to me. i've been beating it's ass for months and it's running strong. planning on running another one alongside it. very good on voltage, and safe taking voltage drop, though i keep mine above 13 usually.
  2. it's body on frame. may as well ask. what type of battery charger would you suggest to charge an agm and lead acid?
  3. me removing the rear battery didn't do much besides lower voltage under load. singer suggested an aftermarket voltage regulator so i can boost idle voltage myself up from 13.9-14.4 max.. would a higher idle voltage gain anything noticeable under load, or is it just for show? honestly, i could run it as is.. idling i rarely drop into mid 12s. singer also suggested adding a second d3400 to the trunk, and i was thinking about running two smart 3s eventually. i bought an md-5k from a taramps dealer and the fans didn't work, so i don't know if i should try another one or just double up.
  4. i went to singer with some questions. maybe he knows some common or uncommon issues with his or any brand alts. i'll still do some testing on my end. sorry for all the problems! this doesn't seem very usual, so i hope it's something simple.
  5. i checked the front battery instead of alt, so i'll check that today. i'm losing about .3 from front to rear batteries at idle. i'm checking from the batteries themselves. my interior voltmeter reads at the sub amp, and i checked front to back with a dmm multiple times. interior voltmeter hasn't been calibrated for a second battery, but it still reads the same as the dmm, just for reference. i do want a battery charger, i was just hoping since the battery is relatively new i'd be good for a while. thanks for the suggestions.
  6. hello. i know it's hard helping people with electrical issues over the internet. to sum it up, i grounded my rear battery with one 1/0 and one 2/0 wire, about 8/10 inches, about as short as it could be while making the wires easy to work with. i grounded both amps separately and hard to the body on clean metal, bolting through like i was told, which was easier than i thought it'd be. one 1/0 coming from the front battery and one 1/0 from the rear battery onto the fuse block with one 4 gauge coming off and one 2/0. front battery grounded hard onto alternator case and frame with stock grou
  7. i'm gonna ground the smart 3 to the left side frame, ground the battery to the right side frame with two 1/0 or 2/0 grounds, and try to nut and bolt the 4 channel.
  8. or i could get someone to help me nut and bolt it from below.
  9. i cut the hole for the existing frame ground with my drill and a step bit. i'm gonna cut another one on the right side for two battery grounds. i don't know why i didn't think of this, but i can do the same on the left side for the sub amp(s) and send those to the other side of the frame. the wire in the picture is 4ga, so i should be fine self tapping it, huh? i have waterproof grommets and have the existing hole cut under the carpet and out of sight.
  10. i'm gonna mount the ground wherever it can be cut shortest, if that makes sense. it'll probably be cut down to about 4-6 inches or so. i can't imagine how i'd bolt it down in the trunk like that. i guess i can tap it for a bolt and not use a nut like i did the frame. i've only seen people use self tappers and washers on the body. i'll look into a few options.
  11. for the sake of having fresh information, i recall seeing that my frame grounds were good because of the thick bolt and washers. it's recommended self tapping the lugs to the body with star washers, right? is that stronger than self tapping a ring washer down onto it? also, the way i had my grounds set up.. i was under the impression that the ground block itself acted as a ground instead of having to be the middle man and still needing to run down to the frame. i can see why that was incorrect.
  12. it's been raining on me, so i couldn't throw everything back in, but i cleaned everything up and got some pics of potential ground locations. the ground shown is old and painted over, i just cleaned it up to show a potential ground. i can use both sides of the "shelf," just not the middle, as there's a gas tank there. the four channel is going on the right side where the fuse and ground blocks were.
  13. i painted over front and rear frame grounds. and i mean i have two power wires coming from the rear battery. is that necessary?
  14. so i should do..... TWO grounds from battery to frame, and each amp ground to a separate spot in the trunk, correct? and i can run both battery grounds to the same frame bolt? thanks for your time!!!!!!
  15. so i should ground the battery to the frame and ground each amp to the body in the trunk? what about the extra power wire from the rear battery? is that necessary?
  • Create New...