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raymo2u

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About raymo2u

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  1. Update #2 @1point21gigawatts solved the problem. I didnt have enough reserve with the one wet cell under my hood (after he helped me through wiring up the alt the correct way). When the cell is topped off I have zero issues so I will be adding a few cells as soon as I can.
  2. @The car itself does seem to slow down when I turn system up, but I suspected that was from the alternator causing more strain on the engine trying to keep up with the demand. The only real issue (aside from the engine working a bit harder is just the dash cluster itself, nothing else seems top cut or flicker. @1point21gigawatts has been helping me all day with wiring it up and with it wired up as JS and others have said, its still occurring. If I cant get this situated then I will try that.
  3. Update: I got a multimeter and turned the car on and the voltage reads 14.7v-14.8v and everything seems fine while driving. The issue is, when I turned the volume all the way up and have the bass knob all the way up the dash flickers off and on. The stereo and everything else seems okay but the car seems to slow and the dash lights drop off for a second. The voltage doesnt drop below 12.5v. This makes me think that I missed something....
  4. Hey guys, I recently got a new 250a Alt from JS and after installing it...I realized that the pigtail is a 3 pin while the stock is a 2 pin. The car is a 2011 Jetta SE 2.5L L5 and it had a Bosche 140a alt (07K903023c). I couldnt find any information on how to wire it up and I tried contacting them through instagram and email but I havent yet got a response. This is my daily driver and I need the vehicle to run as soon as I can, I would appreciate any help. Right now I went with my gut and stripped the wires from the old plug. The colors dont match with the new plug but there is a lighter color wire and a darker color wire and a third red wire (on the new plug) that doesnt connect to anything, nor does it touch anything inside the alt plug housing. So being that there are only 2 wires that seem to connect with the new plug and 2 wires on the old plug, I thought it would be best to connect those following the lighter/darker wire color scheme. Am I wrong, is there anything Im missing? I havent started the car yet as Im worried I have it wrong and I do not know what consequences await me if its backwards or wrong and start the car. If you need anymore information or pictures please let me know.
  5. Sorry to bother you but after looking through many enclosure threads and seeing your replies II thought I would ask, if you could design an enclosure for 2  Skar Zvx15v2's (powered by a SKv2-3500.1D) for a 2011 Jetta SE?

    I dont fully comprehend port dynamics....this is why I wanted to reach out. I am in no rush as I have a box/subs for now, but it is something I do plan on doing in the next few months.

    I have measurements that will allow me to fit a box through my trunk and have the airspace the subs require, but the distance between each sub, port, and other factors I cannot plan for with the resources I am using. I dont mind running subs up and port back or any other deal as long as I can either have the port flow into the cabin or the subs atleast facing the cabin through the rear seats. My original plan looks much like the Skar EVL Box with the 2 subs with the port in the center facing into the cabin but I doubt that will be possible with the 15" subs...

     

    Height: 17" (anything taller wont fit through trunk opening)

    Width: 35"

    Depth (top): 28"

    Depth (Bottom): 38"

    (Pics below of available area)

     

    I would like to use Birch or 1" MDF, have a decent amount of bracing and what ever amount of baffling you would think is necessary. If you have any suggestions or comments I would love to hear them. I appreciate your time and look forward to hearing from you.

     

     

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    20200405_162131.jpg

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