raytard

someone has some 3-8 year old kids for sure koolaid all over that console that looks ill though, its amazing what some vinyl and suede will do for an interior

damnit wish i went to school a few hundred miles closer....or else i'd come through and see them loud ass cars=)

somewhere around 5k for audio, prob 2k on repairs this car has definately seen like 4 hu's, 3 different sets of speakers, a few amps, and alot of different subs. durango before this, dumped prob 6k into, all repairs though....in a year....bad idea to take that thing offroading, punctured a gas tank, 4 new wheels (fancy bf goodriches), 3 thermostat housings, a dif, brakes, transfer case. That truck was the worse thing ever invented....now my sister has it and thinks its the coolest thing ever cuz she got it for free and doesnt pay for gas. My 45 mile commute was a 2-300$/week problem car before that was a 93 camry....didnt even get it an oil change, blew up after 3 months and scrapped it. My uncle spent like 2k on it trying to make it run(technicaly was going to be my cousins, but he didnt have a license yet, and i lived with them and drove him to school, so it was kinda mine, plus i needed to get to work)

everyone on here has something different, there is no "best" subwoofer, chances are there will be alot that work for you. from preference, 2 tens is great if you listen to anything other than rap, but a 15 will def get loud and be clean if you build everything right. jbl gto 14001d amp is 1500rms@2ohm and like 400bux, theres def better deals, but i like it what kind of car is it going in? thers no point in us telling you to run 2 12's if you have a 200sx

avalon ftw....the older ones are some of the most comfortable cars ive ever been in, i dont mind 6-12 hour trips in mine at all, really smooth ride and aslong as you dont play mario andretti you get 20ish mpg, which isnt bad i think i'm up to like 2k in maintenance in repairs over a year and a half, never a problem to work on it. I broke the front cv's in the snow doing donuts and then hitting dry pavement....that was an 800 dollar mistake. most recently i needed new brakes and abs sensor, another 500ish ftl maybe take a look at an older infinity Q or I series, the Q's are some baller ass comfy cars

http://www.termpro.com/storefront/ basically 650 plus whatever addons you want, like extra mics, rta add ons, whatever you like need a laptop with windows to use it

save up to do everything and do alot of research in the meantime, by EVERYTHING i mean 0guage, terminals, rings, amps, subs, wood, nails, glue, tools, batteries, alternator, etc honestly, by the time you have the cash saved up to buy everything in on shot, you should know enough about what youre buying to make an informed decision and if youre trying to go that route, plan around a 5 grand budget, at a bare minimum and also realize that if you do the install wrong, you will most likely blow your subs, amps, or destroy your car

after the amp its ac, higher voltage current. 12g is waaaaay more than enough for that amp (the box says 1200rms@4ohm and 1500rms@2ohm), 12g speaker wire is fine for the speaker connection, but because of the 160amp draw that it has, youre going to need 0g run to the back, and then a distro block/stepdown/extra batt to step down to 4g for the terminals and honestly, a btl is only the way to go if you have the cubic footage and amperage it needs, if you cant put up the power and space, going a step down is almost always louder and cleaner.

ugly=loud i like the "only 160 sumthin", 160 is hella loud, most people have problems getting over 150

i still say hid's are the coolest thing i did to my car for everyday convenience, and 8k's are pure sex post up some pics

i've run h/u's at 2ohm before, and im guessing after rise yours was over 2ohm as well. the radio def ran way hotter than usual though. not sure if all h/us's will take it, which is why i said 4ohm

hey we all know half the battle is getting the funds for the projects and its not like any of us would turn down cash to build a sick system for someone

i think a ford contour may just have nothing to block the sound, plus the seat folds down, and in mine i have a luxury car sound deadened trunk and a thick ass airtight leather seat in the way. it was sooooo much louder without a backseat, like painful loud, make your hair move when the sunroof was open loud. now its kinda...ehh

those samsungs are teh sex, i wish i had the cash laying around for a 42ish inch one. When i got mine (westinghouse) it was 1/4 the price of the samsung i wanted, and had half the response time, and since i got it just for xbox 360 that was important, but looking at yours its prob time to upgrade, that looks so ill

good luck bro, that training can be mad useful, never really going to be looking too hard for work if youre willing to do those hours and are certified for it. i love how my college teachers tell me "if youre trying to get out of college with a 50k/yr job youre going to have to learn this stuff" and all i can think of is that i'd make 50k a year if i worked full time out of highschool, and everyone i know that didnt go to college gets more than that, my buddy is 21 and gets 46$/hr and double overtime doing like gas lines or some junk in nyc. he works 6 days a week 10-12 hours, and has a 3-4 hour commute, so he ahs no life, but rakes in cash, not rare to get 5k a week, and the employer paid for all the training

i learned how to do the spinning sub thing, its definately not an all day every day thing, its a show-only application. basically, they built a mount on the magnet of the sub in the center, and had 2 copper rings, one positive one negative, an armature for lack of a better word protruded from the box and had 2 brushes, one up and one down, each one touching a different ring. as far as as spinning the sub, it was basically mounted to a lazy-suzan type bearing thing, spun from the bottom

hey, didnt you guys know that rattles are louder than subs in those cases? if theyre trying to be heard and attract attention, what better way than a 140some db's of metal clapping? i actually caught flak from some of my buddies when I dynamatted my car and got rid of almost all the rattling, its so much quieter outside, but a noticable amount louder inside

http://www.termlab.com/storefront/ basic termlab is 649 or so

as long as its a 4ohm load you should be fine those speakers prob wont be driven anywhere near their capabilities, and youre going to have to do all the work again to wire ti to an amp, but you should be fine

theres a reason everyone uses termlab, nothing else is really accurate in comparioson, AC mics are like half the price, but measure "volume" not actual pressure, so if you ahve a really loud rattle, itll pick that up over the subs. you can buy some ghetto ones, like what you see on "pimp my ride" or those cigarette lighter plug in ones, but its not uncommon for those things to be like 20-30db's off, hence the reason people with pyle 12's and a sony xblod amp post up 168's all the time

my buddy ahd a ford contour with 2 12inch alpine r's and 2 image dynamics 15's, the 15's faced up, the 12's faced back, the 12's were ported, the 15's were sealed. some random 1000watt amp powered it, and it friggin beat, it shamed my setup. some of that funky stuff will work, but it will always make you look real ghetto

local pledges at a sorority made some apple ish jungle juice for a party tonight, it was probably like 100 proof. that and keg busch lite. i have no idea where my roomate went, but he was definately passed out when i got here moaning into his pillow. whoa, this kid is puking on his bed.....he's gonna have a fun morning

the only way the door handle sets it off is if you have a car like mine where the light inside turns on if you lift the handle. 99% of cars dont do that though, so u have to settle for shock/all points of entry http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6687_Viper+560XV.html <next step up in dei basically, more range, shock sensor, trunk release, remote start

x3, to make it simple just cut out a piece of mdf to fit, cut holes for your mid/tweet, mount it and go for it. Pioneer has a really good replacement in their d-series, as does kicker with the s line. 5x7s fit if you want to use something like eclipses or alpine type r's, but no serious sq speakers come in ovals.

if you can find a premade one, theres no reason it wouldnt work, just check the crossover frequency and slope since that's the only thing you can really vary anyway. if you manage to find blown component sets of speakers, or if a friend of yours blows his, take the crossovers, 99% of the time a speaker goes, crossovers are very durable fr the most part