raytard

lost chime. thats it, those cars run chimes through the radio, aftermarket deck=no chime. Technically may not pass inspection depending on where you live, seatbelt chimes are required in some areas.

get a shotty. The most fun I have is going with a few friends to shoot skeet. Targets are fun but I like the challenge and competition. Not to mention the fact that its hella fun to whip out a 12g pump on the range and beat the guys that are all geared up using expensive over/unders. Just my .02, but trap/skeet is the most fun I have with a gun.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-332 x4 -200 bux (10 in pa mids) http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-534 x2 -80 bux (horn loaded tweets) http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-455 x1- 160bux (15 in ib sub, ib's are usually better suited to horns) thats kinda getting you close to your limit already without crossovers/amps, but would be insane or just get two of these http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=248-4578. self powered, full range pa cabinets.

mtm is always a good way to go, but to fill a big space, consider building a tapped horn. The spl levels are questionable in a car, but in a big open space they really shine. Nothing is more impressive than a properly done tapped horn in a huge space, I guarantee no other configuration will give the bandwith and output of a tapped horn in a room that size. visit partsexpress.com for product, I'll take a look and see what I can come up with too, but theres always more than one way to skin a cat.

I do have it but it's honestly a lot less severe now that I no longer have a crazy system. I've always had it (always rode dirtbikes/gokarts since I was ~4, shot guns a lot but always used plugs). I don't know if its just me but it def seems to have decreased since I stopped abusing my ears. It used to be reallllllyyyy annoying, I had to sleep with the TV on because voices were nowhere near as annoying as the ringing.

No. Crossovers are only designed for a certain amount of power, putting two sets on one crossover means that you are very likely to start blowing up caps and burning coils if you decide to power the speakers properly. Also, changing the impedance seen by the crossover means that the actual crossover point is changed dramatically(raises it) so the mids play less efficiently (because they have to handle a wider range) and are more likely to blow.

glass break is a microphone and basically is cake to install. car already has door pins so you dont need to add them. the links you posted dont work, but I would suggest a 350 viper system if you want security, or a 5601 or 5701 if you wanted remote start as well. Whatever you do, spend the money on a 2-way system, alarms are useless if you don't know they're going off. And consider professional install, its not a simple thing to do, especially if its your first time. Wiring and programming can be daunting, I know my first install took 8 hours for something a good tech could do in 20 minutes.

either an mrd-m605 of mrd-m1005, take a pic of the fuses and I'll know, its kinda hard to tell because they look almost exactly the same besides the size and fuses edit: looked closer, 4 fuses means its an mrd-m1005. Don't burn yourself, the thing never cuts out but runs hotter than most stars.

skullz, ever meter a tweeter/woofer from a component set? you'll find that the woofer and tweeter of a 4ohm component set are 4ohms...the crossover has its own resistance (notice the resistors in there? among the caps and coils and such? take a look). moral of the story, he wants to get a 4ohm tweeter and woofer that is normally 4ohm at the crossover to be a 2ohm load. it cant be done reasonably, but if the tweeter and woofer were paralleled it would be 2 ohms, although you would destroy it pretty quick with no crossover in the middle.

yes, but it will be running off one channel and have no left right separation (so you wont get the power you want and itll sound weird) so, basically, its a technical yes but its a stupid idea that wont work well. hook it up normal and buy the right equipment next time.

not everyone uses squares for the same reason we dont all live off caviar and wine, better on paper doesnt mean better. Yes, increased cone area leads to an increase in sensitivity (because more air is being moved), but that same increase can come from a more powerful motor on a round sub, or even just a tighter gap or different top plate, the cone difference is nearly negligible when the whole speaker is considered. Also, corners have never worked so well, rounds have a nice smooth contour allowing better strength and linearity.

higher voltage=lower gain thats it in theory, you gain a higher dynamic range (since there is more room for distortion-free voltage differences) and a reduction in noise (noise is amplified less because gain is lower) but few sub amps have noise, and even with 2.2v you should have more then enough dynamic range for a subwoofer. Especially with orion, they dont like high input voltages anyway. It literally has nothing to do with how hard the amp works or how loud it can get. So long as the amp can reach its peak output with the signal provided (which i guarantee that orion amp can) than you gain nothing from higher input voltages.

someone must not have been paying attention in school power=volts*amps. power (Wattage)=volts (12ish in cars)* (times) amps (current draw, whatever your fuses are rated for) moral of the story, whether it is a 1v in or 11v in, 2500 watts is 2500 watts, same amperage draw, same heat. Higher voltage does have some benefits, like increased dynamic range potential and lower noise, but it will never make an amp work less, only decreasing output (volume) does that edit: i know that is a little complex, but think of it this way. Your carrying shingles up a ladder. Thats work. It's hard. It requires power (Wattage). Input signal is like your boss yelling at you, the louder he yells, the more voltage. It might get through to you clearer (less distortion), and you might not have to pay attention as closely(lower gain) but you're still hauling the same shingles up the same ladder doing the same work.

run it free air, boat subs are meant to be installed exactly as you have there sealing it actually decreases the already low sensitivity, and ported makes for a horrible moisture-filled space (for a relatively small gain)

in most schools, electrical engineering is more than 4 normal years in school, and I know my business admin requires an extra class to squeeze it into 8 semesters. Sit down with an advisor and see whats involved, anything engineering is going to be intensive and have some crazy math involved, and business admin is one of those majors where you end up doing a ton of work towards the end (I'm looking at a 12 minute presentation, 2-15 page papers, 2 essays, 5 midterms, and 8 short essays in the next two weeks alone. ) moral of the story is, unless you have the resources and time to spend an extra few years, you might have to choose just one or take extra classes.

i know you have a truck and its not going to far, but a 150a fuse is 0g territory, I personally don't use 4g for anything past 100 amps

just bustin your balls bro i just looked at a wire and a box of deadener for 3 minutes waiting for you to show the cool stuff and you never did.

you made a video of wire, and aluminum foil stuck to butyl? is anything cool going in the delta? or do you just love making videos? The products didnt even make fun of eachother's prices or anything like that funny video all about stuff sitting there.

get a panasonic microwave sensor reheat FTW! throw anything in there at any temperature and press that magic little button and it just beeps when its perfectly hot. No joke, whether its a full size chicken or a single pizza bite, comes out perfect.

yea, i know that whole thing isnt done in one shot, but do you know how hard it is to come into a corner, even one you know, flat out, spin it literally backwards, and fly through at redline with all 4 tires smoking, and still manage to love-tap the apex cone? I'd imagine someone with that much skill could not be last atleast once in a season. (i know he podium'd at x-games, but he hasn't won or atleast placed anything that wasn't basically an exhibition match)

he has such amazing timing and car control why the hell is he sooooooooo slow? He's finished dead last all the rallys I watched and I just checked the wrc boards, he literally doesn't even have a single point. http://www.wrc.com/results/ -he's easy to find, he's dead last. What gives?

you're not the only broke college student on here, join the club. 60$ is going to get you a 4g kit with a 0g label, dont waste your cash unless its some sort of brand name (knukonceptz, kicker, jl, monster, stinger, etc) 280 for an alt? make sure its not just a stock with a 2in pully on it, you wouldnt believe how many "high output alternators" are stock ones with a smaller pully. and if you're getting 150 for ass to mouth than put in a full weekend and get an ill setup, listerine doesnt cost that much for a weekend worth

homebuilt ftw well that and dta and level matching.... installation and tuning matters more than what you spend, headphones have no tuning(well, outside of your audio drivers if you're using a pc). Work much better out of the box, and for 99% of people they will work better than any stereo, but for the 1% of us that know what we're doing the options allow a much better experience.

man up and spend some cash, and dont run at .5 cuz thats just asking for heating issues 1500@2ohm can come from alot of amps, rockford 1500bdcp, jbl gto14001, kicker zx1500, the list goes on you might notice that those amps are all 3-5 times as expensive as the hifonics, and there is a good reason for that they do their power and dont suck so either you can pay less and get less, or pay more and get more. up to you. if you dont want to spend more, you already have the best you can get.

we're both gods, its cool and no, I wouldn't run anything that cheap at .5ohm...I'd be surprised if it even came on