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  1. And keep in mind you have to get the enclosure into the trunk unless you plan on building it in the car. I've seen a lot of boxes built that didn't take the trunk opening into account. It's a small but important detail lol
  2. Angled won't matter with the subwoofer the bass frequencies aren't nearly (if at all) as directional as with midrange and highs.
  3. There's definitely something not right. I have a single x15 and with 2000W going through it and even the wipers bounce a bit on the right song. 2 of them with more power should absolutely slap you silly. I agree with Audiofanaticz that something seems off with the gains. Any chance you have a subsonic set too high or a lowpass set too low that's choking off the subs?
  4. Assuming the amplifiers in question are of similar quality/price point I think it would come down to how the rest of the specs look. In the average car, which is a horrible environment for sound, nobody is going to hear the difference between an amp that can span a wider spectrum than 20-20k and do it reasonably flat. Other specs like distortion and frequency response will have a far greater effect on what you hear.
  5. For what it's worth and this is likely an unpopular opinion... You're building an SQ daily driver. The amount of time you'll be running the system hard is will be far less than listening at "normal" volumes. 1500W total system capacity on a 130A alt I'd do all day long. Hell I have a SIA3500D in a CX5 with less alt than that and, because it rarely gets played at ridiculous volumes, my voltage never really suffers. Even with the sub up enough to vibrate the shit out of everything voltage doesn't drop below 13.5V. Admittedly I'm probably not near the limits of the amp but it just goes to show you can get pretty damn loud without a ton of power. Realistically, 95% of the time you'll be running at less than 500W. 3% of the time you'll probably tap 1000W...the other 2% of the time when the system is maxed will be on the odd full song or that "this part of the song is fucking awesome" passage. If you can honestly say that you'll be playing your music loud all the time (and you really need to take into consideration how little watts it takes to play really loud) then I might consider looking into a better alt but I honestly think you'll be fine. Upgrade whatever power and ground wires (some vehicles it's easy and others not so much you'll have to research your car) you can to make the flow of power as efficient as possible. Nothing wrong with small sealed enclosures but consider ported if you can spare the space. A good ported enclosure will be bigger than a sealed but will play more efficiently and save you some wattage needs. Speaker sensitivity can play a factor but I wouldn't get too hung up on it. Find components you like the sound of first and foremost. If by some fluke you find two different sets that you like equally and there's a fair (2db+) difference in sensitivity you could get the ones with a higher sensitivity and get a minor increase in volume for the same watts. Personally I wouldn't worry about it but if you're trying to get every last bit of loudness it's something that you could consider.
  6. This. Now, if you're looking to improve on the factory sound without going crazy (which I think is what you're alluding to) cost wise don't get too hung up on multiple amps and processors. EXCELLENT results have been had with a simple 4ch amp for mids/highs and a good monoblock powering a modest subwoofer. A good set of components in the factory locations and a small 10"-12" (hell even a good quality 8" is lots for a true sq system not based on overall sound output) sub will be miles ahead in sq than the factory system. Your biggest challenge will be making it all play with the factory system. If you're lucky you can bypass OEM amplification and retain full bandwith signals for your aftermarket amps. If that isn't an option then you'll have to research which OEM integration processors best fit your needs and budget.
  7. It might be worth checking your crossover settings. If the low pass is set too low you'll be chocking off a the output of the subwoofer. While tunning does play a part in output you should still be getting a good amount of volume at your current tune. For reference I have a single 15 tuned around 29Hz that will blur your vision all the way up to 50Hz where I have it low passed. This is in a crossover SUV that is bigger than your vehicle. Frequencies heard outside the car aren't within a specific bandwidth as the bass range, with sufficient output, will easily be heard. What type of music are you usually listening to that you want heard? Honestly, tunning 32-35 will slap hard for most music types and still sound good doing it. You could tune higher but output gets peaky and your bandwidth really starts getting narrow.
  8. I'm thinking he'd want to use steel instead of aluminum? Much better fatigue resistance and I've never seen an aluminum part used with seats/restraint systems. I realize the risk is low (I had a pickup lifted with hockey pucks years ago so I'm not a safety nut by a longshot) with the aluminum but for the peace of mind I personally I think steel is the way to go.
  9. Simplest way would be to open the rear deck up with grills as you were thinking and just let the bass pass through that way. Less dicking around with routing ports and such. Lots of trunk cars pull deck speakers out to let the bass pass through and it works well.
  10. Nothing wrong with building an enclosure from plywood if you design properly. If it's Baltic birch ply it's one of the best materials to build with IMO. Builder grade ply from home depot (which I'll assume is what's been bought) not nearly as good but can work if you understand it's limitations and design properly. With 5/8" I'd say laminate the sheets together giving you a strong flex free enclosure. If it's Baltic I'd say given the lower power you could get away with using the 5/8" but bracing it all up very well and a double baffle for the sub.
  11. It's possible you just wire each amp to a single coil of the sub. You'll want to make sure you match you gains perfectly along with your crossover points. Eyeballing won't do it you'll want to measure it electrically. Beyond that it's a fairly straight forward process. EDIT: Looks like Dafaseles posted right before I did lol
  12. I guess technically it would be stereo but your stage would be panning front to back and not side to side. Whatever signal you send to an amp's L & R inputs it will sum them when you bridge it. Whether or not you send a stereo signal or two monaural signals won't matter. It'll sum what you send it. Like Joe X said though it probably won't sound good.
  13. Give us the dimensions you have to work with and we can better guide you to some options. If the sub was going to be removed when not it use and not sitting in a moisture rich environment I'd say don't worry too much about it being marine grade or not but longevity could certainly be affected. I've known a few people over the years who have used non marine grade subs with great results but precautions were taken to ensure they didn't get moisture damage.
  14. The amplifier will sum the inputs when you bridge it so your speaker will see a mono signal.
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