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TheBKG last won the day on May 15

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  1. The Mid Amp won't work. That's a Monoblock amplifier which means it doesn't have Left & Right Stereo. Running your Midbass Mono will sound terrible. Did you mean that between the doors and center console there will be 6 total, 3 per side? Also your concept of Midbass in the doors Plus center console isn't going to work well. Again because of stereo imaging. The only thing that can get away with being Mono and still sound good are the Subs. That's because below 100hz our brains can't process the location of sound the way they can for everything else. Leaving them running Mono will sound good. I don't believe this would even fall into the subjective category, it simply won't sound natural to the human ears at all. By the same token placing the Midbass in a L+C+R but leaving the upper Mids and tweeters in the far L & R the overall imaging won't sound natural either no matter how much DSP you use. If you feel you truly need that much Midbass then you will have better results placing 3ea 6.5's in a custom sealed enclosure in the doors, running them down to 2.67ohms. 1500 Watts at 2ohm amp ought to work. Though finding a 2 Channel amp with those specs could be challenging. You could use a smaller Monoblock amp per side. Or... You might also find using 2 5-Channel Amps could work nicely, 1ea per Left & Right sides. Channels 1 & 2 would power the Upper Mids and Tweeters, you could then add some rear Coaxials (or even separates since you'd have the additional amp channels) powered by Chanel 3 (again both channels 3 & 4 if using separates), then Channel 5 which normally powers a Sub could then be used on the Midbass. Just a thought.
  2. Thx for sharing Bro. I've seen that before, I'm just wondering if he has a video or write up explaining how they work?
  3. Never heard of it. But if he didn't come out of it with 2 blown ear drums and virtually deaf for life I'm calling BS. The shear force of the air pressure along with the massive shifts of pressure back and forth inside the box is such that I'd have a Very hard time believing the human ear could survive it without Good Protection.
  4. Mids and Highs is where the Subjectivity of Sound comes into play more than anywhere else. Ask 20 ppl and your going to get 20 different answers. The Best answer is to go find stores and install shops that carry speakers your looking at and go listen to them. Thats the best way to figure out what you like and don't like. Any other method risks spending money on and installing speakers you end up dissatisfied with. Ultimately you risk loosing money. For example there are nearly a dozen different Tweeter cone materials that fall into one of two categories: Hard or Soft Dome. Only listening to them will determine what makes you happy. And to quote a well known HiFi Reviewer Andrew Robinson, at the end of the day the only person who has to be happy with the sound of your system is You. I always recommend using tracks with certain elements that will reveal exactly how speakers will sound and test their ability to accurately reproduce. Those elements are a good quality Male Vocalist, true Piano (not a synth) is difficult to reproduce and absolutely separates decent speakers and below from truly good ones, and a mix of Trumpet and String instruments will tell you exactly whats happening in the high frequencies. Yes I know no one here listens to that kind of music, but they are excellent tests of not only how the speakers will sound and the quality of their reproduction, but especially in terms of the high frequencies you can quickly determine if you'd be able to listen to them for hours or if listener fatigue is likely to become an issue. If they sound harsh playing good brass instruments then even if they seem ok with the music you listen to all the time there's a strong possibility that after 45 minutes to an hour you'll find yourself turning them down or off without knowing why you didn't want to listen anymore. Now, what we can absolutely discuss is your choices in speaker placement. 2 questions, how important is Imagery/Sound Staging to you, and are you going to be using a full featured DSP?
  5. I honestly don't understand the logic of running them 1 Ohm with the very strong potential of blowing them just to gain 25 Watts per Sub. That's only a +3dB gain. Running them at 4 Ohm is totally safe as long as gains are set thru the system to run without Distortion. You can let them amp do its Max in that setup and the Subs will be slamming. Switching to 1 Ohm only adds the Bare Minimum Audible difference that most people can perceive. It will sound just a touch louder while being just a tiny twist of the gain knob away from destroying the Subs forcing you to have to replace them. High Risk, tiny reward. Not very wise. If something so much as brushes against the knob it's over.
  6. 950 Watt would equal 475 Watts per Sub. That's not underpowered that's perfect. You don't have to match the exact Max RMS power rating. You couldn't hear a 25 Watt difference.
  7. I just checked. Here is the Distributor in Europe: Germany: MASORI Daniel Hoppe masori.de Tel: 49 (177) 293-3128 Facebook: @masoriaudio Instagram: @masoriaudio
  8. The problem with using 0dB is consumer audio equipment is built around a -10dB reference. Whereas for an alternate example Pro Audio gear is based on -4dBv = Zero reference. Some ppl go with -5dB or -7dB as a safety buffer. But at 0dB your definitely leaving a lot of gain potential on the table. As for your methods they're spot on. Lookup the DD-1. That's a tool sold on SMD's store (on this website) that can tell you exactly how high you can take both your HU and speakers until they Clip.
  9. Narrow, yes. But not tiny in comparison to others. Though I guess it does depend on the space a person is trying to fit it in as to what meaning they make of "small". And that's as far as I'm gonna go cuz the Tight Rope is Thin on trying to avoid the colorful jokes!
  10. I spent 25 years mixing sound at my church which does full band high energy worship plus 16 years working in the Pro A/V industry. I've trained my ears way beyond my budget. Blessing & a Curse.
  11. LOL!! Bro I Love D'Amore's stuff. I really do. But I don't think those fit into the Small Form category!
  12. I agree that Class D have gotten far better. But there is a reason every serious SQ competitor uses AB. There is an audible difference. I still use D on Subs. The energy draw is dramatically better and the SQ isn't any different except in very specific uses in classical music reproduction. But I don't listen to classical much.
  13. Skar's website does not seem to like my browser for some reason. The embedded pics will not open up for anything.
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