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JerryWilliamson

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About JerryWilliamson

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    Colorado Springs, CO
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    Car Audio (obviously), subwoofer box building, woodworking, anything automotive electrical, coaching basketball, sports broadcasting, home theater, electronics, flying, cancer support groups, and riding in anything made by Honda or Boeing.

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  1. Helix or (even better if you have the money) anything by Audio Control. One of Kicker's amps has DSP connectable through Bluetooth to an app you install on your phone to set everything up.
  2. Yup! They are back now right on the front page where they previously were. Apparently they do read their e-mail. Now I just need $16,000 to get two of them. Thank you!
  3. Audio Legion has several (I mean *several*! ) subwoofer product series -- like eleven! --. For sake of example, say you are going with the Armada Series 12". Recommended box volume is 2 cu. ft. per speaker *plus you will need surface area for the port. That is 16 cu. ft minimum in the back of the cab. A total enclosure size would be something like 60" wide x 30" high x 16" deep. The concern would obviously be the width. In my Pilot, the maximum width I can do in the back is 55" or so unless I want to take out the OEM interior panels and go full custom that way (which is a one month project in and of itself), 55" is my limit. With a height of 30" (assuming you are removing the rear seats) you *also* will be losing at least some of your rear window visibility. So what I would do is simply get out your tape measure and measure the width especially. If you are short of 60" in terms of what will fit, you can have the enclosure point the outer subs (this is a 4 wide by 2 high layout) in at 45 degrees which will save you possibly 4-5 inches. But that is a very complex design which will require top notch fabrication skills not to mention some decent tools (including a table saw). Yes, it will be tight no matter which approach you take. If you do a 3 wide by 2 high layout (6 subs total), your enclosure dimensions then would be 45" wide x 30" high x 16" deep and I will guarantee you that configuration will fit in just about any truck or full size SUV. So the next question is do you absolutely need eight? Check out Steve's Escalade build on YouTube and that monster box he built (needed a fork lift to install it since it weighed several hundred pounds) used six 12" B2's. The enclosure looked like around 52" wide. Depending on your amplifier configuration, a six sub layout would likely result in a 2.66 ohm load (instead of 4 ohm load) so going from eight to six subs would save you space AND the lower impedance would still give you a higher power output with just the six. Just make sure your amplifiers are *at* *least* 2-ohm stable. I always recommend doubling the minimum impedance the amp can handle to allow the amp to run cooler AND to extend the life of the amp. It also further minimizes distortion which will improve sound quality. Clipping will kill tweeters and mids. With subs, you might get away with it but the system at max volume level will still sound like garbage. Get a distortion detector (recommend the SMD DD-1) throughout the entire tuning process to guarantee you can get maximum performance without damaging your speakers (or the amp) via clipping. Good luck!
  4. Awesome! A much older vehicle will probably be a little easier to fish out the line you want. Obviously no SRS to deal with. I found the following on YouTube that describes working with starter kill circuits:
  5. In my 2002 Civic, I installed a kill switch by routing the positive lead from the ignition (I had to mechanically remove the ignition from the steering column) through a relay. The turn-on lead for the relay went to my CodeAlarm. This is tricky work but I got it done. What kind of vehicle is this (year/make/model)? You may want to order the service manuals for this vehicle. Honda now has two service manuals for most of its vehicles. The main service manual covers everything *except* electrical. The Electrical Service Manual is what you want. It will contain wiring diagrams, harness layouts (including the wire colors), everything. At minimum, you will want to remove the fuse for the SRS (air bag system). You *can* disconnect the battery altogether while poking around but the problem there is you are looking for the 12 volt line in and out of the starter which you need the battery connected to tell you where it is. The ignition switch is in series with the starter relay and it will probably be 12 AWG wire -- thick compared to most of the other factory wires in the bundle. If you are not comfortable working on automotive electrical, you can probably find someone for $100.00 to fish out that wire for you. And, no, you are not a moron. Just doing something you have never done before.
  6. My recommendation would be to get the second amp. At 390 amps, that should be more than enough current to run two 2250’s. They are Class D so assuming a *modest* efficiency of 80%, the maximum current draw at 14.4 volts pushing 2300 watts comes in at 199.6 amps. So regardless of whether you get a large single amp or a second 2250, your electrical system is fine. As for the x8v3’s, they are rated at 800 watts rms continuous. Could they handle 1150 watts for brief periods? Very likely. Also what is your goal here? Raw power and SPL means you will have two subs per amp in parallel to present a load for each amp at two ohms (since each sub will have their two-ohm voicecoils wired in series for four ohms). It will not matter whether you do series/parallel or parallel/series because you end up with two ohms either way. Yes, you *could* get a monster monoblock amp to drive all four down to 1 ohm but do you really need to spend all that extra money? As for gain matching, yes get the CC-1 (I just ordered one)! I used to use an oscilloscope (which I still own) but that is slower and less accurate. Basically you are visually scanning the screen for when that 40 Hz sine wave (for subs) starts to square off at max/min amplitude. There are two ways to blow a speaker — amplifier distortion which results in pumping DC into the voicecoils (frying them) [too little amplifier power] and simply overpowering the speaker with excessive power. I have never blown a speaker the second way but have destroyed more than a few speakers the first way with pushing an underpowered amp too hard. The other issue is that you likely will get much more than 2300 watts from the 2250’s. You will need to decide how much power your subs get maximum and then set your gains to never exceed that. Also, If you do series/series (if you want sound quality vs. SPL) then you will have 8 ohms per amplifier which means you lose 70% of your maximum SPL in a trade off for virtually no distortion at all. THD mostly shows up well above 100 Hz so you are not really gaining anything in terms of sound quality if you go that way but personally I would not. Unless you are building a competition system for SPL, my recommendation is to configure the subs at double whatever the minimum impedance the amplifier can handle. If the amp is 1-ohm stable, then give it no less than a 2-ohm load. It will keep the amp from overheating and will extend the life of the amplifier. Send us some pics when you get done!
  7. Yes. I noticed last week that their A-series amplifiers (the A1500.2 and A1500.4 that Steve used on his Escalade) are no longer visible on the website. I called late Tuesday to ask about this and have not heard anything; I left a message. My guess is that they are uber busy with limited staff to handle all the questions. When you call, it goes straight to voicemail.
  8. @audiofanaticz is right on regarding the distribution block and that probably is your best option. I had the same problem in my 1999 Honda Civic some years ago and that was the *only* way I was able to solve it. The Civic engine compartment is small and very tightly packed. The electrical harness includes *everything* in the engine compartment from the ECU bundles to the fuel injectors to the power buss and the starter cable (which is 4 AWG believe it or not!) . Literally "no wiggle room". I found a small area to put a Streetwires fuse/distrbution block near the left wiper motor (which is behind and above the firewall) and that solved the problem. To be fair, a Civic alternator only puts out about 90 amps and my system at that time (two MC140's and one D200II from Soundstream) was only 480 watts so really no need to go crazy with 2/0 AWG cable. At least you have an Escalade which gives you more room - just a question of how much surgery and relocation of "stuff" under the hood you are willing to tolerate. If you use any after market battery terminal adapters (KnuKoncepts makes some of the best) be extremely careful to check the height of the positive terminal to make sure it does not touch the hood when you close it! The clearance in my 2002 civic *with* the add-on terminal is *only* 3/8" (I used Silly Putty to verify this). Since I am on here now I will check out Sky High's products and especially the SMD hardware. All of the installs I have seen are just off the charts with these products and I cannot wait to start trying them out. Since you have the Escalade at least *that* should not be too much of a problem. Be careful and good luck!
  9. The 2012 Elantra probably can hold the third sub but with everything else going on in the back it would be a tight fit. The D1 subs are effectively an open air (infinite baffle) design. Anything 8 inches or larger will have plenty of open space on the basket design so that it will not matter which direction you point the cones in terms of SPL and sound quality. The only thing a third 12" subwoofer will give you an extra 5-10 db SPL and that is *if* you plan on adding a third amplifier to go with it. I assume you have each sub (dual 1 ohm voicecoil) wired in series (2 ohms) currently? The Crescendo 4K's are stable down to 0.5 ohms so, regardless of what your current wiring configuration is, the third amp would simply go to the third sub. Otherwise you are running three subs off two amps which makes things much more complicated. You could split the loads up and present 3 ohms to each amp but that reduces your power and defeats the purpose of adding the third sub in the first place. Also, adding the third sub will have very little impact on sound quality at normal listening levels. Without additional information, given what you have I would recommend staying just with the two subs unless you were planning on adding that third amplifier. Good luck!
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