missionman

Im looking for the same thing even 10 years later!

yea this thread runs pretty far back in time on the NightShade, by Derrick of course. Thank you for the reply. I wasnt so sure about what route I was going to take but if it can be side fired ill build the correct load bearing brace for it.

Im a little late to this thread but speaking of NightShade! I just bought my own Sundown Audio 10" Nightshade V6 and its about 65 lbs. I prefer my box to side fire. Seems to get more bass in my 03' 4runner that way, plus I use my box for a table. Its extremely convenient. My 4runner is converted to a camper so no back seats. just a 72" bed and a box. I plan to build a custom wood/metal brace for the motor slot (1/4") and high points of motor case (1 3/16 and 1 5/8 + the depth of the box from cutout, but only IF I CAN side fire it. It was very hard measuring this thing to custom brace it. Too bad someone didn't build level brace kits for NightShade and other subs. Id buy one or 2. Is this advisable? or should I not risk it? I have a heavy duty down4sound custom box so the wood at the sub cutout is 1 1/4 inch birch. I use heavy duty Allan T screws with 3 prong nuts to mount sub. give me your opinion and do people often side fire these heavy subs or do they always fire up? thanks in advance for any tips.

I have 1/4 inch pure copper threaded (binding posts) bolts installed in my set up with 2 pure copper nuts on both posts to sandwich the terminal connection outside the box. down4sounds Johny put them on my box free of charge instead of the not so great terminal cups they offer. the bolts are FAR FAR better by all standards especially for less resistance for power delivery and simple robust connections that do not come off even if you move your giant box. If you want clean constant power you MUST go with binding posts, minimum 1/4 copper. I think they make one size larger commonly. 3/8 or 1/2 or something. Ive heard the saying it keeps your enclosure uniform for smooth air mass but its probably negligible on small boxes and more true to massive installations with numerous subs on 20K power or something. In that case Ive heard of people blaming terminal cup cutouts causing high pressure unbalanced resonance that tore cones but i duno. My posts actually threaded in the wood initially but the birch wood threading doesn't last after taking them apart a few times. Still I use copper washers too and everything seals 100%. 2 tiny 1/4 holes in my box towards the rear lower corner. Cords lay on the ground when sub faced out or up. Ill never use terminal cups now. Seems unnecessary after using clean tight binding posts. I recommend Mine look like this but mine are 1/4 inch bolts and about 2 inches long and each hex head bolt has 1 copper washer, lock washer and 2 nuts. so 4 nuts total. https://www.amazon.com/Foyoram-M3-M16-Copper-Hexagonal-Conductive/dp/B0CJBV2VQT/ref=pd_ci_mcx_di_int_sccai_cn_d_sccl_1_1/142-1548593-0631613?pd_rd_w=kAFJi&content-id=amzn1.sym.751acc83-5c05-42d0-a15e-303622651e1e&pf_rd_p=751acc83-5c05-42d0-a15e-303622651e1e&pf_rd_r=K9KG9F4ATVKFH979CFJ7&pd_rd_wg=pj8QK&pd_rd_r=c3f99f71-70c6-4a46-9a05-b289f9286ee4&pd_rd_i=B0CJBV2VQT&th=1

nice! im looking up those other subs you listed a couple comments back. Hey what software did you use in that comment where you show that graph with my parameters inputted in it to show its peak curves?

thank you for this info. I am after sound quality but something that can handle my Taramps 3000.1 MD amp. If i could find it, Id like a high powered 10" sub dual voice 4ohm, thats got 3000w or less RMS and has a low Fs around 30hz not for SPL but SQ.

I understand what youre saying more than i understand that graph. The way Im looking at that graph is, I need to look for a sub with a Fs of 30hz or perhaps cut the hole bigger for a 12" sub and re-tune? or should I generally be ok? lastly, would I keep my subsonic filter to 30hz or keep it nearer to 34hz with the setup I have?

my box was software modeled by down4sound. Its a 1.7 cf ported box tuned to 30 hz. im using a 10" American Bass sub with a Fs of 34hz. this box for this sub is down tuned by 4hz. Is that considered more bad or more good or not a concern at all? Im just trying to get on the right page generally speaking using the above model. how well does a 30hz tuned box pair with a 34hz peak performance sub.

I been reading this thread and the more I read the more I began to feel unsure. I had a ported box made by Down4Sound for a 10" sub. Right now I have an American Bass Hawk DVC 4ohm sub and its Fs is 34hz. The sub isnt what i necessarily want to stick with but its a decent sub. My box I tuned for 30Hz. What are the pros and cons of this? Im still hunting for a 10" sub that has at least 1500 RMS DVC 4ohm with a Fs of 30Hz or close to it but I cannot find one, yet. Im more into SQ not SPL. My hearing is already poor from commercial plumbing and forgetting hearing protection. So is tuning a box lower than your sub by 4Hz bad or good? I might have gotten bad advice. Ive read to tune your box higher than its Fs by a couple octaves or Hz. What happens if you tune below a subs Fs? I set my subsonic to 33hz on my Taramps 3000.1 MD.