usmc7980

brings up a good point what size is your box gonna be?

it just falls into corners, but like bangin said DO NOT get the KLM its coper clad aluminum. Been through this on ROE but I'll do it here too. If you use KLM use the 4 gauge KLM where you would 8 gauge OFC and so on. This will make up the difference in the loss of conductivity you will have with mostly aluminum wire. Hope this helps

just get a good silicone and call it a day

VAS is not what to build an enclosure to. You will need it when using T/S parameters for certain calculators, but again it is not the size you build your box to. What brand and model subs are you going to use, maybe we can help find your info.

I've gone from 200lbs to 275lbs in 4.5 years since getting out of the Marines, but I have realized all that exercise bullshit was highly overrated.... beer tops it all

got no 2x dickies shirts for my fat ass

I use a synthetic silicon called Dow Corning 795. We use it at work to seal metal roof seams. It stays exposed to the elements all year and have I never seen a failure in 5 years. Don't know if you can get it at home centers. The good thing about it is it is fully synthetic so you can put it on the seams and drop the subs right in and not worry about the surround eating away from the curing fumes.

look at the manual and it will say sub disp or something similar. It should be in cubic feet or a similar measurement. Multiply that # by the amount of woofer and plug that in for example ...... you have 2 subs that displace .071 cu ft. You need a 3 cu ft sealed box(for simple math). Take 3 and .142 (.071x2) and build your box that big.

I do have good low RPM output and the only reason it was not good was the terminal post was broken at the connection. The new one has had no problems and I intentionally tried to pound it into the ground for 2 weeks straight before I started rebuilding, no problems ever came up.

build the shit out of, enjoy it for a while then auction it off or give it to a charity and write it off on you taxes.

interesting, apply for a patent and steal all his royalties

Yes it can happen but wouldn't placement make a difference also. If you can get everything in the right place I would think it could turn out ok. Just make sure to not put everything in the same box or on the same power, keep it all independent.

I ordered a 200 Amp for my Exploder and it looked great but when I installed it it was only charging at 12 volts. I called up DB and they said sorry and troubleshot on the phone but nothing worked. I was like shit I got crap and then the due at DB said "don't worry about it". So naturally I got kinda irritated and asked what do you mean don't worry about it? Point being they overnighted me a new one and upped it to a 220 amp at no charge and it went in and works perfectly. Turns out the post on the original was broke where it connects inside the alternator. With that being said, he guys up there at DB were really cool and I wouldn't hesitate to say go ahead and buy from them.

I have to say it War Damn Eagle and if all else fails Geaux Tigers

It seems that box is around 18 cu ft (40' x 45' x 18'=32400"^3/1728 is 18.75'^3 right?)before displacements so it would have to be smaller. Preferably in the depth I'm hoping to be around 20-22 inches or so. I don't have to have the subs in triangle formation ,they can go straight across the top and that would be fine with me. So I'm planning on using a 12 wide by 7 tall port opening so what should the depth be? I don't know how to figure that part. Still aiming for somewhere between 30-35 Hz.

So how would go about getting the right port area and figuring the tuning? I suck at math so bear with me if yall can. Can I just make the opening 12 wide and 7 tall for 84in^2 port area how do I figure the depth?

I'm not too good at plugging these numbers in, in real life, so the bold section would be for a square port at the bottom center of the box and it would need to be 5 tall and 10 wide and go into the box 7.5 inches for 50in^2 of port area? I though you should aim for around 15inches^2 per cube of enclosure, would this not create a port noise problem? And there are no dimension on that box a couple posts up so is that the one we're all talking about?

Build a wall with homemade speakers, what class would that fall under for comps? HAHA

here you go, cheaper than the fosgates http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KBT-30P

These are all external dims. So 45W x 18H x 15D will work perfectly. If you can help on the port dimension when you get a chance it would be cool Thanks Chris

I have a box currently installed and have had a few people express doubts on how it will sound so now I'm looking for a backup design if it does indeed turn out sounding like ass. I've got 3 12" Type R subs, they are Dual 2 Ohm. Each sub will get 500 Rms. I'm mainly looking for a subs up port back design. My dimension are 45" wide max 18" tall and ? on the depth. Im looking for around 30-35 HZ. I'd kinda like something like this. Thanks to anybody that can help

he AQ amp does 1300 @ 2ohms so that wont work for ya. I'd try suing two smaller amps and strapping them. Maybe the pa3000d like mrwigglezdj wouls work and still be budget friendly

How many watts are you trying to get and at what Ohms, I assume 2 ohms because thats what you said but want to be sure? And how much money do you have to work with?

I am talking about the remote wire and not the main power. I figured on using the relay but wanted to make sure it was called for, so a relay from AutoZone would work fine?

I'll be hooking up amps soon and was wondering if I need to use a relay? I have 3 JL 500/1 and ? for mids and highs(probably a Sundown 100.4) So will I need a relay for the amp turn ons or can i make a distribution bar then split it off to the amps?