The Performer

As long as you didn't burn the coils or it sounds distorted now with normal listening I would bet it's still fine, just don't do anything that's not meant for it from now on. I doubt you damaged the sub if anything, those models are made for alot of wattage and I don't think a common stereo receiver puts out that much, even if you're giving it too much load. If anything I'd be worried about the receiver.

I don't know man but I better get to hear this when you're done! That's gonna be alot of sub... I know who can meter it here in town though when you're done, PM me.

:ban: Just kidding man, but that was funny what steven c said.

Haha, yes that's bad for the receiver, as well as the sub. Putting a heavier load on the receiver is going to stress it just like bridging a non bridgeable amp. I don't think that sub was meant to do any frequencies higher than 180 hz if even that. That's a decent sub you've got on your hands, no need to ruin it.

That's gonna be a hard one to find dude. Either E-bay or LMC would be my guess.

I'm not to experienced with alt upgrades or rebuilding them, but isn't that alot of amp gain just from changing brushes? I can see maybe 10-20 gained, but twice as much sounds a little too hopeful. What's the output from a aftermarket alt?

My dad's got a miller mig welder, Not sure of the model, but I must say it's a great brand to go with.

You'd like the alpine 9887 then, excellent built in X-over, VERY customizable EQ, and just about anything else you need. Good deal though getting it working man, let's get some vids.

No probs. Always willing to help.

I'm guessing it would take you about the time of half of the song to get it turned up that far? Alpine has it down a lil bit better, there's around 30 levels of volume, the sweetspot is at 22-24, so if you have to cut it down in a quick hurry it's not too far from low. 62 is just pointless. Is there that much of a difference between level 51-52 that you need that accurate of volume levels? Not to mention usually when people run speakers straight off of the H/U the speaker is going to distort at about 35-40, so do you need that extra 20 to go? Eh, just a rant of mine about pioneer...

Polishing compound? A fine wax? Hell if I know, that sucks man.

Learn a skill or talent and be a performer. I did close up magic at my school for tips and such, You'd be surprised what kind of money you can make... In one class our teacher asked for use to go around at lunch for a week and collect money from everyone for a charity for some kids or something on christmas, (spare change, donations, etc...) It wasn't required to participate and at first I wasn't and the first day I didn't care to participate. (I'm not necessarily a caring person.) But I ended up getting talked into helping by my classmates the second day so I went around campus during lunch and did a few shows. For me that meant the entire school cafeteria was in an uproar with over 300 people crowded fighting to see what was going on. After the show I would ask everyone to give what they had to all the people walking around with the cans and that's what we did for the next 4 days for about an hour and a half a day during lunch. At the end of the week the teacher called me out in the middle of class and thanked me personally and announced that under my guidance of the ordeal I had contributed over $500 of collected money in those 4 days. That's less than 7hours total. And I really wasn't even trying. If you really want to make that money, I think you can figure something out.

That unit might not have a removable face plate. Not sure... I also believe whoever said there's the radio fuse under the hood is correct. I've got an 03 silverado and I'm pretty sure the radio fuse is in the fuse box under the hood, and not in the dash fuse panel. As for the problem, I am going to guess that if I remember right, after 03 on our vehicles, there isn't necessarily an ignition input from the factory harness if I remember correctly from installing my headunit. I used the harness that was for the pre 03 models in which there is no chime module and such, and my constant 12v and ignition is together giving me the option of having the radio on without the keys when I want. I'm assuming that with the door chime module it's decoding a data signal to tell the radio to turn on, because I remember there being a harness pin that wasn't used and I'm guessing it was the data wire or similar that worked in conjunction with the stock radio. Maybe with the install of the alarm/remote start it's giving weird signals through the electrical system causing some weird things to happen with the headunit door chime module. If you think about it, (alarm>uses door pins>door pin switches work with door chime>door chime is in the H/U harness.) Just my guess.

Congrats man, glad to hear you got it workin for ya. Im personally not a fan of pioneer's and others for that one reason about the 40 and up levels of volume. (Who needs that many steps of volume for a car stereo?) Anyways, sounds like you got a great deal man.

Hah!

What is autotune?

I spy particle board... Post pics after covered.

Yep.

That's a powerhouse! Definitely PAI's logo down there on the bottom of them. So from what I understand those are distributed for you guys over there in the phillipines? I'm assuming yall are using them in your builds, how's everything with that going? Hope those beasts are working bad ass for you guys, they look killer.

Is it on the car at the moment?

That's why I stick with my simple flip down faceplates. Sucks to hear that man, I'm sure you've tried this, but I would just try and coax the faceplate in the movement it's supposed to go while it's doing it by pressing the button.

Last time I heard stone cold lived in san antonio area. Had a friend that worked at a restaurant was his waitor. Funny thing though, got a buddy here in CS that works at one of the movie theatres, and a celebrity from navasota area comes to frequent our movie theatres and other places quite often... My buddy found his phone in the theatre one night... None other than Chuck Norris himself.

Isn't that the same plates they have in europe?

You know what's safe to bridge to a mono block by calculating your ohm loads of the speakers. Running two 4 ohm subs bridged on a mono block will present the amp with a 2 ohm load. Find an amp that puts out twice as much as the rms of one sub, because (two 100rms subs bridged need 200rms, 100w for each sub, get it?) also make sure the amp is stable at that ohm load. Now if you've got dual voice coil subs it's a little different just a few more wiring options. Post up what you have let us help you do it right the first time and not just the cheap work around way. I would not do any of those 3 amps you are looking at for the pure fact you're probably going to pay more for a multiple channel amp for a less powerful amp in the end. Take the time to learn about what you're doing and do it right. That alpine in the original post looks like a great amp so let me explain what it'll do for you and you can see if that's what your looking for. It's stable at 2 ohm. Which means if you bridge two 4ohm subs to it, it will be perfect for them. At 2 ohms it gives out 500 watts. That's 250 watts for each sub RMS. Now are your subs going to be fine with 250 watts RMS? If all that sounds good then that alpine is your amp, get it and quit making it more complicated than it should be.

:ban: