Nightshade

Crazy comrades! That's a very nice score out of a brand that some spl competitors like to think has no business in the spl lanes. Here Team Sundown is proving themselves once again in the lanes with another record under our belts. I'm not sure Jake, did you catch the brands that were being run in the other vehicle they beat

In my opinion I would go with a 4 cube after displacement box. The ports that I would use in this case would be 3 4" aeros instead of the single 6. There are a couple of reasons for the 4's instead of the 6" like they are 9.42sqin of port more then the 6", and it increases the port area per cuft to 9.42sqin over the 6.8sqin that you have. This will increase output and efficiency. Also I saw someone mention that the 6" will be close to the back wall of the box and that's absolutely correct. Whatever the width of the port is how far away you need to keep it from a wall on either end be it in front of the port or behind it. If it's a 6" port then you need at least 6" from the end flare to the back wall of the box. If you use 4" ports you will have extra room, but will actually need to make them longer then the 6" port since they have more port area and I've suggested a .5cuft smaller box. There's a few things that you can do to fix this. Either make the box a little deeper to help get the added depth that you'll need. Or you can increase the box volume to help with the length of the port being shorter, but I already believe that 4.5 is too much volume for the woofer to begin with. It's up to you, but no matter what port configuration that you use it would be best to put it closer to the driver's side of the box instead of being centered between the woofer and driver's side wall of the box. This allows the wave inside the box to develop more before exiting, and when you throw it right in the middle where you have it in the design it may not reach it's full potential creating pressure inside the enclosure before it's forced out into the cabin of the vehicle. I've personally tested several enclosures and port placement and I've found that 99% of the time as far away from the woofer as you can set the port up is going to result in the enclosure being louder.

lol DC fanboys getting shit but here we have someone with the username "nightshade" recommending... a nightshade. plus the sundown audio banner in the avatar. lol sorry man, but thats funny to me. It's cool bro, I just said it's not too hard to believe that DC is winning. They've been the forum bonner for a long time now and it's not a bad thing by any means. Of course I'm gonna suggest a Nightshade though, but also because he has a saz3000d. Those two are a nice match together. Also Punky, a Nightshade will eat, chew up, and spit out a fully loaded BL. I'm not sure who gave you the idea that they were comparable to a Nightshade but that's not true at all. The Nightshades in a woofer swap test were louder then the last style loaded BTL's with the UFO mags. If you wanted a sub to compare a Nightshade to output wise and even sound wise then I'd say it's SIMILAR to the RE Audio MT woofer. They do happen to sound a bit better then the MT's imo, but even output wise the Nightshades happen to test a few tenths louder. This is the NS V1 that I'm refering to, then if you wanna throw the NS V2 in the mix output is quite a bit better then the MT's, with even better sound then the NS V1's. Anyone that's owned a Nightshade will all tell you the same thing, they are stout badass motherfuckers. They will play the lows when broken in and in the proper enclosure to do so. So don't attach that stereotype to them of not being able to get down. There's a reason that Jacob is sold out of the V2's right now, and is the only reason that I would think you may want to do another sub. Unless your willing to wait until he gets more built of course. In the end it's up to you, and I'm just throwing my .02 out there since that's what the thread is about. Shit buy a couple of different subs that you listed try each one of them and then go with the one that you think performs the best for your setup. I'm sure you won't have any trouble selling the others here since each brand listed is a quality woofer that is sought after by many here. If you were close to me I'd even let you try out one of mine to see if you like it, and so you can also see for yourself that the Nightshade is as mean as those of us from Team Sundown say it is.

I still have realestate available in my car for some more speakers. I've found something to go in the doors where I wanted to put the neo8's and couldn't because of depth issues. I think these would fit nicely in the kicks. Any chance you will have a nice LOUD tweet to match up with these Jake?

17,173 watts at 1.37ohm That's just fucking crazy talk right there. I think there are plans in Russia to convert the NS1's into ICBM's and launch those bitches back to Jacob by their own power. This is truly the deffinition of overkill, the good old American way, lol.

Be careful when you do travel this way. I was driving up 74 on the way back from Myrtle Beach and my rear passenger tire blew out. Dumb ass from AAA shows up and is like I'm here to put your spare on, wtf. I told them on the phone there was no spare and if there were I'm sure I could probably handle that much. The dude definately looked unhappy when he saw 200+ pounds of enclosure where the spare was supposed to be, lol. You still have my number? If not I'll pm it to you. What's the front stage look like to keep up with the beast in the trunk?

Not too hard to believe that DC is winning the vote right now, lol. Why not just keep it real and go with a Nightshade to match your 3000d? They go together oh so well, and I'd be happy to give you a decent box design if you wanted. I've ran Sundown just a tad over 3 years and couldn't be happier with Jake and the way he runs his empire. It's hard to even imagine using another brand amp/sub at this point in time since I see myself always anticipating what he's about to release next. Who needs another brand when the manufacturer you run is building new stuff all the time?

Looks good Adam. I like the choice of equiptment. Pink ports???? Just don't try sticking anything in them that doesn't belong That gives a whole new meaning to the term "blow job" Why don't you get in the car and drive this thing up to Greensboro so I can finally get a chance to meet you and hear your work?

Brain, showing us once again why the state of Wisconsin is good for the advancement in bass Always doing something that seems to earn you more respect from me then the last project. Never the same thing twice with your crew. It's nice to see someone dropping it old school with a multi 8 setup like were all over back in the day. The first really loud setup that I heard was 16 8's mounted in tubes in a soft top jeep, and come to think you have half the cone area here and probably a good 5 db or so on that setup

Oh crap these things are in Russia? They are going to come back more powerful than what they were before they got their hands on them. Everything Greg touches turns to gold or spl, lol. These guys will know what to do with them.

I'm very interested in one of these for my Focus. There could be a pair of saz3500's on the market here very soon if I can get my hands on one to test Any chance of that happening Jake? I'm free most of next week, I could make a trip down to the shop for the day and you could have another vehicle to reference the amp's capability? Also I just love coming and giving that Lemons guy a hard time too

4.5 cubes after displacement with 2 6" aeroports tuned to whatever you want it to. If you give me a freq you want to be tuned to I can tell you how long to make the ports. The 2 6" ports will give you 12.56sqin of port per cuft and should work out great. The 4.5 cubes is a bit on the smaller side of things but should allow your sub to take the 2500d all day long at pretty much full volume unclipped of course with no issues at all. If you were to go much bigger on the enclosure I think you might run into trouble with the sub getting hot over time at high volumes. If this is going into a hatch or a suv I'd see no reason why you won't be able to do 150's out of this setup. Depending on what vehicle too I'd say woofer up and port back or woofer up and port to the driver's side should work out best.

Imo, I would do 3 4" aeros for the 2 sa12's. That comes up to being about 38sqin of port and if you are doing 2 cubes per woofer it is 9.5sqin of port per cuft. Imo 2 cubes is too much per woofer especially with a 3500d on the pair. I'd do something more like 1.5-1.7 per sub which would look more like this with 3 4" aeros: 3 cubes total= 12.66sqin per cube or 3.4 cubes total= 11.17sqin of port

Yes $240 for the pair. Is there any way to tell if they are really old just by pictures? Also how do you connect a regular automotive post to the battery? I've been trying to find out but came up with nothing. That last part about the dimming is a complete bummer. Is there anyway to fix that at all? There should be a manufacturer date printed somewhere on the battery. If it's not there anymore you can see if the seller would let you get the serial number to use to call Deka and find out when it was made. Chances are they're not much more than 2 or 3 years old since Deka hasn't been popular in the car audio world much longer than that. Your probably going to expect a life of 4-6 years out of one of their batteries if it's been properly taken car of. They don't last as long as something like XS Power does with a 10 year life span. The diming can be conquered. The solution is to have more amperage coming from the charging system then the amplifiers are pulling. For example if you have a 3K watt amp and it's pulling around 250 amps from you alt and batts at full tilt at night you would need at least a 290 amp alt to keep the lights in better condition. The extra 40 amps gives you electrical system the extra juice it needs to run the lights, turn signals, fans, and other electronics that pull from it when the car is on. Another way to achieve your answer is to just wire an independant alt for the stereo. If you isolate the batteries and alt that are used to power the system then the alt that powers all the other electronics in the vehicle won't see the stress from the large current draw that comes from loud music at night. It's kind of shitty that you would need 2 alts, but it may be the better solution in the end, but I've not ever done it personally.

Deka's by far if they aren't super old. I have a Deka Intimidator G34 under the hood of my Focus that's been there for 2 years or so and it's going strong. Iirc the Deka's outperformed even the Kinetik 2400 in a battery test on ROE a while back. They are strong for sure and worth the buy at $240 for a pair of them. Also just adding batteries without a proper charging system isn't going to cure your headlights diming. I have a total of 4 batts in my car along with a 260 amp alt and multiple runs of 0 gauge and I still get dim at high volumes.

I've got 2 Sundown Nightshades that are full subs that you could tear down to build into 18's. One sub is very close to needing a recone and the other is working just fine. They are the NS V1 motors and weigh in at around 60 pounds. They support a 9" spider and 3" voice coil setup. I would do $500+shipping as they are right now. I've got a couple of pics stored of them if you'd like to see.

If your having trouble breaking that sub Brandon must not be around. If he gets his hands on it it's just a matter of time before it ends up in pieces, lol. No one else can sheer a magnet clean off the basket like Brandon can.

Don't hate on 8's You didn't even list them as an option so here's what I'd suggest. Run 4 Sundown sa8's, and they can be in a box that is right around 2-2.5 cubes max depending on what your looking for. Four 8's is nothing to laugh at especially when it's the sa's. Off of around 3K in a hatch there's no reason you shouldn't be in the high 140 to low 150 db range. If you want to get even crazier do 6 of them bitches, which would need around 3-3.5 cubes. That's more cone area than a pair of 12's and in the same box size or smaller. 6 8's= 301sqin of cone 2 12's= 226sqin of cone 8's are a win for limited space. Call Jake now!!!!!!!!!!!

In case I missed it what kind of vehicle is this going into? To me that is the most important question to ask before deciding what size sub and how many to go with. That is unless you plan to just wall it, then pretty much everything is game. For example, there are several accounted applications where a pair of 12's have been louder in a small hatchback vehicle versus a pair of 15's. Even with both size subs in the proper airspace the actual area around the enclosure plays a big part in how they will act in vehicle.

Damn Jake that is some serious abuse that little thing is taking. The throw is incredible for the type of woofer it is. Now let's see some spl test results! My guess is that they aren't more than a db and a half behind the sa's.

I'll 2nd this. Speaking from experience I run right at 1.6 cubes per 12 and 11.6sqin of port per cuft. I have each set of sa12's wired to .5 ohms on a saz3500d, which is quite a bit more powerful than the saz2500d. Make sure your guy isn't playing way below tuning since that could cause the coils to heat up quicker than normal as well.

I have a Nightshade V1. 15 with dual 1 ohm coils. It has 2 hard and 1 medium spider on it. The sub is also fitted with an aluminum machined pole plug for coil cooling. The spider rings have been added and are used to bolt the spiders down for added structural integrity. I've personally been able to burp a 152.6 on the dash sealed in my car at 52hz with this sub. The amps were clamped making 42XX watts. This sub has mostly been used for daily though and given around 1750rms for that purpose. I'm willing to do $275+shipping on it if your interested even though it's not a dual 2 ohm coil sub. Thanks, Nightshade

Yeah dude your fucked unless you completely replace the entire lead with a longer new one. To do that you need to remove the dustcap and unsolder the old leads. Then resolder new ones and carefully run them through the cone to the terminal. Had the same thing happen when I owned a pair of Level 4 12's and was told it was probably my fault no matter what because there was no way that it wasn't done right from the build. I was pretty pissed to be told that I didn't know what I was talking about and getting told by the manufacturer that there was no way it was something on their end. So I switched brands and have been running those ever since with the smallest amount of problems from them as I could ask for. Not to mention much better customer support upon product failure, opposed to the pointing the finger at the customer technique that I previously experienced. My advice, get a sub with sewn down leads and it shouldn't happen again, or if it does not because the leads are too short. If it happened with sewn down leads it's more than likely going to burn the lead and not snap it, and THAT can be a reason to blame the customer. Good luck bro!

Yep, either of the ways that I mentioned should work out just great. If you want to play low freqs I would say that even doing subs up and the ports back would be the best solution for that since facing the ports back will allow them to load off the hatch creating somewhat of an extension of the port that will cause it to play lower. <<<<How's that for a run on sentence, no comas in sight

No problem, I hope it works out well for you. I'm sure with a pair of those little 10's and the juice that your gonna be running to them that shit is gonna wang.