Nightshade

Weren't there only something like 100 of these being produced? It's pretty cool to see that you got a pair of them. I can only imagine what you are going to do with them. I wouldn't even know where to start with a 24" woofer as far as enclosure size and port area. It is a really different animal with a sub that large. Good luck with the build and I know that I am excited to see the finished product.

This way of wiring the subs is called a series parallel configuration. Meaning that the coils on each sub are wired in series and then the two subs are wired in parallel to get you to your 1 ohm load.

The way I would wire would be on each sub wire the + from one coil to the - of the other coil. Then the left over + and - that aren't wired together on each sub will go into the amp from each woofer keeping both +'s and -'s from the two subs together in parallel.

I am not sure about an SUV but subs up port up does not sound horrible in a hatchback. Actually it sounds pretty damn good and tends to get very loud in certain vehicles. A lot of Euro hatches do subs up port up and are super fucking loud!!! Anyway like I said I am not sure about doing both subs and port up in an SUV, but from personal experience sub up and port firing diagonal back into the corner of the hatch works very well for a single sub setup. The most recent SUV build that I did was a dual 15 box with a single 10" aeroport. The box was 5.5 cubes after displacement with 2 Crossfire XSPL V1 dual 1.4 ohm 15's. They were wired down to .35 ohms on a Sundown SCV3000D. The box was tuned to 47hz for SPL, however, would play over a 148 from 32-55hz. That is pretty damn cool if you ask me. It was an SPL box, but for some crazy reason was one of the absolute best sounding enclosures that I have ever built. Others that heard the box had no idea it was intended for SPL and not SQL. The best number that it put up was a 150.5 on the dash sealed with maybe 2200 watts after impedance rise. If we would have added more port area it would have probably helped to keep the rise down as well as increase the SPL due to more port area and the result of higher tuning. This more than likely would have killed any of the sound quality potential, and I say sound quality with the slightest amount of seriousness in my statement. If there is any interest in seeing the setup, it isn't pretty, let me know and I'll throw up a few pics that I snapped of it. It's not my build , but I did build the enclosure and do the box design. The setup is going to change to 2 Sundown ZV3 18's or quite possibly even 4 ZV3 18's ran off of a ton of power. The amplifier configuration isn't set in stone yet but will probably be a pair of Sundown SCV6000D's, SCV7500D's, or even a pair of NS2's when they are released.

If you don't want to wait for the recones from Sundown contact Bryan Chamberlin through Facebook. He works at Sundown and does a good bit of recone work on the side for Jake. When the wait time at Sundown HQ is 3-4 weeks Bryan can usually come up with them in 1-2 weeks or quicker. He can do custom work on them too. However, Bryan usually charges a little bit more than Sundown does due to the rush of the order and the fact that he isn't going to work for free, but you aren't going to find a nicer guy to deal with and he will stand by his work as well.

I second this Meade. This is only one of many reasons that this is the best car audio forum on the net. I don't even go to others anymore, just SMD on a daily basis. It's been cool to see this place grow over the years and is amazing how much it helps the community. Thanks for following your vision and providing this great and informative place for us like minded people.

35,417

Let's go with 23,745 watts total. I know these amps are strong but I even feel my guess is a little conservative.

I beg to differ sir. I have ran my saz3500's, saz2000's, and now my scv2000 at .5 ohms and not a single one of the setups sounded like shit. In fact the scv2000 at .5 that I am running right now has great sq and the woofer plays every note that I ask it to without issues. It gets lower than I could ever want and does not distort or stress at all. Just gotta know where to set the gains and count on box rise to get you into the 1-2 ohm range and it will sound just fine.

15324 is gonna be my guess. I would not be surprised if it bested that but I will stay conservative.

Nick, I have heard Jacob Fuller speak of you several times. From what I have gathered you have supported him in his quest in the industry in a similar way as Paul did you. Thank you for your contributions to the industry and for helping those out along the way. You never know the next little guy you help may turn out to be the Incriminator Audio of the future. Welcome to the site!!!!

Fucking ridiculous man! One of the industrial panel design places that I worked at used flexible copper bus bars instead of flex cable when the current got up to 600 amps. Before you know it that is the type of shit we are going to have available for us in car audio. Here is a link to the shit that I'm talking about: http://stormpowercomponents.com/shop-our-stock/braid

Damn Meade! Those fuse blocks with the smoked plexi and the volt meter installed in them look tough! These have to be some of the highest quality fuse blocks on the market right now. I love how you are making products for true bass heads that have been overlooked by the larger companies for years. Thanks for taking the time to provide us with the specialized shit that we have needed but never been able to buy until now.

1496

This thread comes to mind when I see some of the responses here http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/59517-what-vehicle-turnd-you-into-a-basshead/