Nightshade

Yes $240 for the pair. Is there any way to tell if they are really old just by pictures? Also how do you connect a regular automotive post to the battery? I've been trying to find out but came up with nothing. That last part about the dimming is a complete bummer. Is there anyway to fix that at all? There should be a manufacturer date printed somewhere on the battery. If it's not there anymore you can see if the seller would let you get the serial number to use to call Deka and find out when it was made. Chances are they're not much more than 2 or 3 years old since Deka hasn't been popular in the car audio world much longer than that. Your probably going to expect a life of 4-6 years out of one of their batteries if it's been properly taken car of. They don't last as long as something like XS Power does with a 10 year life span. The diming can be conquered. The solution is to have more amperage coming from the charging system then the amplifiers are pulling. For example if you have a 3K watt amp and it's pulling around 250 amps from you alt and batts at full tilt at night you would need at least a 290 amp alt to keep the lights in better condition. The extra 40 amps gives you electrical system the extra juice it needs to run the lights, turn signals, fans, and other electronics that pull from it when the car is on. Another way to achieve your answer is to just wire an independant alt for the stereo. If you isolate the batteries and alt that are used to power the system then the alt that powers all the other electronics in the vehicle won't see the stress from the large current draw that comes from loud music at night. It's kind of shitty that you would need 2 alts, but it may be the better solution in the end, but I've not ever done it personally.

Deka's by far if they aren't super old. I have a Deka Intimidator G34 under the hood of my Focus that's been there for 2 years or so and it's going strong. Iirc the Deka's outperformed even the Kinetik 2400 in a battery test on ROE a while back. They are strong for sure and worth the buy at $240 for a pair of them. Also just adding batteries without a proper charging system isn't going to cure your headlights diming. I have a total of 4 batts in my car along with a 260 amp alt and multiple runs of 0 gauge and I still get dim at high volumes.

I've got 2 Sundown Nightshades that are full subs that you could tear down to build into 18's. One sub is very close to needing a recone and the other is working just fine. They are the NS V1 motors and weigh in at around 60 pounds. They support a 9" spider and 3" voice coil setup. I would do $500+shipping as they are right now. I've got a couple of pics stored of them if you'd like to see.

If your having trouble breaking that sub Brandon must not be around. If he gets his hands on it it's just a matter of time before it ends up in pieces, lol. No one else can sheer a magnet clean off the basket like Brandon can.

Don't hate on 8's You didn't even list them as an option so here's what I'd suggest. Run 4 Sundown sa8's, and they can be in a box that is right around 2-2.5 cubes max depending on what your looking for. Four 8's is nothing to laugh at especially when it's the sa's. Off of around 3K in a hatch there's no reason you shouldn't be in the high 140 to low 150 db range. If you want to get even crazier do 6 of them bitches, which would need around 3-3.5 cubes. That's more cone area than a pair of 12's and in the same box size or smaller. 6 8's= 301sqin of cone 2 12's= 226sqin of cone 8's are a win for limited space. Call Jake now!!!!!!!!!!!

In case I missed it what kind of vehicle is this going into? To me that is the most important question to ask before deciding what size sub and how many to go with. That is unless you plan to just wall it, then pretty much everything is game. For example, there are several accounted applications where a pair of 12's have been louder in a small hatchback vehicle versus a pair of 15's. Even with both size subs in the proper airspace the actual area around the enclosure plays a big part in how they will act in vehicle.

Damn Jake that is some serious abuse that little thing is taking. The throw is incredible for the type of woofer it is. Now let's see some spl test results! My guess is that they aren't more than a db and a half behind the sa's.

I'll 2nd this. Speaking from experience I run right at 1.6 cubes per 12 and 11.6sqin of port per cuft. I have each set of sa12's wired to .5 ohms on a saz3500d, which is quite a bit more powerful than the saz2500d. Make sure your guy isn't playing way below tuning since that could cause the coils to heat up quicker than normal as well.

I have a Nightshade V1. 15 with dual 1 ohm coils. It has 2 hard and 1 medium spider on it. The sub is also fitted with an aluminum machined pole plug for coil cooling. The spider rings have been added and are used to bolt the spiders down for added structural integrity. I've personally been able to burp a 152.6 on the dash sealed in my car at 52hz with this sub. The amps were clamped making 42XX watts. This sub has mostly been used for daily though and given around 1750rms for that purpose. I'm willing to do $275+shipping on it if your interested even though it's not a dual 2 ohm coil sub. Thanks, Nightshade

Yeah dude your fucked unless you completely replace the entire lead with a longer new one. To do that you need to remove the dustcap and unsolder the old leads. Then resolder new ones and carefully run them through the cone to the terminal. Had the same thing happen when I owned a pair of Level 4 12's and was told it was probably my fault no matter what because there was no way that it wasn't done right from the build. I was pretty pissed to be told that I didn't know what I was talking about and getting told by the manufacturer that there was no way it was something on their end. So I switched brands and have been running those ever since with the smallest amount of problems from them as I could ask for. Not to mention much better customer support upon product failure, opposed to the pointing the finger at the customer technique that I previously experienced. My advice, get a sub with sewn down leads and it shouldn't happen again, or if it does not because the leads are too short. If it happened with sewn down leads it's more than likely going to burn the lead and not snap it, and THAT can be a reason to blame the customer. Good luck bro!

Yep, either of the ways that I mentioned should work out just great. If you want to play low freqs I would say that even doing subs up and the ports back would be the best solution for that since facing the ports back will allow them to load off the hatch creating somewhat of an extension of the port that will cause it to play lower. <<<<How's that for a run on sentence, no comas in sight

No problem, I hope it works out well for you. I'm sure with a pair of those little 10's and the juice that your gonna be running to them that shit is gonna wang.

With that type of power if you were just going for a pure spl setup I'd say that .6-.7 cubes would be just fine. If you actually plan on listening to the enclosure then I'd go no smaller than .9 cubes. I've played around with boxes this small before with other subs and though they weren't nearly as capable as the sa10 in approx. .85 cubes ported per sub 2 Pioneer 10's sounded great and played into the mid 30hz range quite well. Thanks a lot bro..... Enclosure to be built for this sa10"s are pretty much for music which I'm not quite familiar since I'm more on the spl side. This infos will be very helpful for me. Do you happened to know also the sub displacement for a sa10"? It wasn't included when specs were given. Was is 0.10 ? I know that the displacement for the sa12 is .14 so I'd guess that .10 is probably about right on. The only difference in the 10 and 12 would be the size of the actual basket since they use the same mag as one another. I'm not sure how much a few hundredths of a cube would affect the actual box if at all so if you went off of that number you should be good.

What I was planning on doing was port up and subs up. So what you are saying is I should put the port up but put it on the driver side? What I mean by port on the driver's side is putting the port on the actual side of the box meaning the side that's on the driver's side of the car. That would have the subs firing up and the ports firing out the side of the box towards the driver side of the vehicle. I am willing to bet that you'll be louder with either the subs firing back and the ports up or the subs firing up and the ports to the driver's side then you would be with everything firing up. My first install in my ZX3 with 2 Nightshade 12's was both subs and port firing up. The score it did on the dash was a 145.8 off of 1800 watts. I built a new box with the subs up and ports back and did a 147.8 off the same power. The only other thing I changed other than the way the ports were firing was that I used flared ports instead of a slot port like I did in the first try with the setup. In your case I'd have to guess that loudest will be the side firing port configuration, but subs back and ports up may just sound better since the woofers have a direct wall to load off of making it so you don't hear some of the mechanical noise that they may make.

Imo, I'd go with 6 cubes total after woofer and port displacement. Then I'd probably use either of these 3 combinations for ports, a single flared 10" port, 3 6" flared ports, or 6 4" flared ports. The length of the ports depends on the desired tuning of the box. In my case I have 4 of the sa12's in 6.5 cubes after displacement with 6 4" aeroports that tune the box to 36hz. It plays very loud and very low too. It peaks in my car around 39-44hz just by the ear since I haven't actually metered the box yet. Also for your box I would do either the subs up and port to the driver's side, subs up port back, or even subs back and port up. I've tried all 3 of these combinations in my car with different enclosures and the loudest I've scored with is subs up and port to driver's side, but subs back and port up wasn't too far behind. Good luck and if you need any help just ask.

With that type of power if you were just going for a pure spl setup I'd say that .6-.7 cubes would be just fine. If you actually plan on listening to the enclosure then I'd go no smaller than .9 cubes. I've played around with boxes this small before with other subs and though they weren't nearly as capable as the sa10 in approx. .85 cubes ported per sub 2 Pioneer 10's sounded great and played into the mid 30hz range quite well.

Should be there to pick mine up tomorrow since I got delayed on Monday and couldn't make it. Kinda sad that I don't get to see all that was there since I'm sure a lot of it will be sent out by the time I get there to pick mine up.

Trade for a single 4 ohm Fi X 12? I have one of them in my wife's car and I'm looking for something to get her amp down to 2 ohms where it will make max power. I clamped it playing around and at 4 ohms nominal it rises up to 7.4 ohms and the amp is making 164 watts. I'm definate that dropping the impedence down closer to where it should be run will make quite a difference. Let me know if your interested.

Trade for some 1/0 wire? I have 25ft of Silver Tsunami 1/0 with a 4200 strand count of ofc wire that I would be willing to trade. I've owned this amp in the past and it is very nice and well priced. Edit: Also have some Second Skin Damp Pro in black, and Second Skin Spl tiles if that is of more interest to you. Plenty of references as well.

T3 T2000 since it's the highest quality driver that you listed. JD is one of the best guys out there in the industry and has worked on several of the best woofers in the world. He has a history and the experience to make a superior product to most out there. Also his subs are just fucking sexy as hell too. If I didn't run Sundown Audio you can mark my words that I would more than likely have T3 woofers in my car.

Micah bought an amp and some 1/0 terminals and paid very fast. He is a great guy to deal with and I would reccomend him to anyone.

Steve, I want the other one for sure then since they're selling out from under me when I was the first to ask about it. I can either pay you now via paypal or whatever you want to do. I won't be able to pick it up for a little bit though, or I can just get it from you in Greenville. I'm going to text you back now so you see that before this, but I got dibs on it.

I will more than likely want one from you Steve. Did you send me a text about these batts? If so I'll respond to you there.

You might be better off putting something like that on ebay. I've seen them on there quite a bit and seems to be the market for them. Good luck with the sale!!!

Here are the results for the show if anyone is interested in them. My score that I did was with my 2 15 daily box instead of the 1 15 spl box that I normally use in NSPL. It still was louder than what I did with the spl box at NSPL finals and would be loud enough for a new world record in the class. Anyway the spl box is a little bit over a db louder so look for some mean scores coming out of the ZX3 here very soon. I'm officially looking to claim the title of world's loudest ZX3 without a wall and I think that I have it, just need to get a certified score so it's legit. Thanks go out to everyone who was able to make it to the show today! I think the new time frame for the show helped thinks flow smoother and we finished on time. We will be announcing the future dates in High Point this week upcoming, so for now go get LOUDER! Eastgate Electronics 3/21/10 Class Competitor Score Place Beginner 1001-1800 Jason Hess 130.3 1 Car 3601-up Team High X-cursion Zach 152.7 1 No Wall 0-24 Team Eastgate Ryan 147.9 1 No Wall 0-2500 Team Eastgate Ryan 147.9 1 No Wall 0-2500 Jason Huneycutt 146.3 2 No Wall 2501 5000 Team Pawn Way Nick 149.4 1 No Wall 25-48 Team Pawn Way Nick 149.5 1 No Wall 25-48 Jason Huneycutt 148.5 2 No Wall 25-48 Kevin Bishop 137.8 3 No Wall 49-up Brian Williams 151.1 1 No Wall 49-up Team Eastgate Lendell 141.6 2 No Wall Hardcore 0-24 Team Eastgate Ryan 150.6 1 No Wall Hardcore 25-up Team Pawn Way Nick 151.3 1 Streetbass 120-129.9 Kevin Bullins 129.9 1 Streetbass 120-129.9 Team Eastgate Dee 129.7 2 Streetbass 120-129.9 Team Eastgate Ryan 129.6 3 Streetbass 130-139.9 Team High X-cursion Zach 139.9 1 Streetbass 130-139.9 Team Pawn Way Nick 139.2 2 Streetbass 130-139.9 Team Eastgate Malcom 139 3 Truck/suv 1801-3600 Team Eastgate Anthony 147.9 1 Truck/suv 3601-up James Woods 146.7 1 Trunk 0-1800 Team Eastgate Dee 145 1 Trunk Hardcore Team Eastgate Dee 146.9 1 Wall 5001-10000 Team Eastgate Auten 151.5 1 Wall Hardcore 5001-10000 Team Eastgate Auten 157.4 1