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get bags in the back I dont think thats what hes going for. He simply wants his rear suspension stiffer so people can ride. Do you have excess weight (Large stereo) in the trunk making it sag? or is your rear suspension just beat? If its just saggy, by new coils for the rear and new shocks. If you have a big system in the trunk then remove the rear coils, take them to the junkyard, find a heavier car or truck and pull them from it and make them fit in your altima.

I hope you guys can resolve this, looks like a big mess ...

good shocks will help, but not magically make it ride like a cadillac. Sloppy steering could make it ride bad, but it would be much more noticeable then anything and i think you would have said something about it in the first post if it was that off. i dunno man, blazers ride a little rough i guess, do what you can to try and make it better. you can also check to make sure all your wheels are perfectly balanced, cause that would make it ride rougher. otherwise i dunno man

larger shocks for a bigger lift, not really for the lift you already have. I hate air shocks, your better off getting a nice set of billstein's. they ride super smooth. and if you really wanted to ditch leafs, then you would have to do a 4 link and all out lift coils and shit, and thats gonna cost hella bread... I am kinda surprised you think the ride is that bad, that just seems odd for a blazer. Are you used to a mercedes or luxury car and just not used to a ride in a truck/suv? Cause that would make it seem realllllly bad

I just sold my 07 TBSS, there fun little trucks. Before you question if your going to bag yours, start reading. If you havnt had anything bagged before, you have alot of research to do. Trailblazers are not the most popular trucks laid out on bags, it can be done, but its not as simple as it is for other cars and trucks. first, you need to think about your budget, cause its not cheap. second, your gonna have a period of time without ur truck, and will need a back up, third, if your not doing the work yourself its gonna cost alot more money... price varies. DIY with propper tools and equipment, is a 'few' grand. with your truck, there arnt many 'bolt on' pieces such as a arms and link systems. everything is gonna be custom made. A shop will probably start around 6 grand for a regular S-10 or Silverado WITH bolt on parts, so yours will be alot more. It also highly depends on the equipment your using as well. With air ride, you dont want to go cheap, and it will cost more. cheap fittings fail, and cost more down the road then nice fittings. Same with cheap valves, air compressors, and link systems. Deciding which parts is right will be discussed with the shop doing the work. Im a dealer and sell parts, and can give you lots of input when you get to that stage, and can also sell you the parts. Hope this helps to get you started, EDIT - just reread your post and i completely missed that it was a 4x4.... that makes it WAY more work and will cost even more money. yikes man. It may be able to be done after basic 4x4 shit is removed, but i dont know anybody thats bagged a trailblazer that was 4x4. Some other trucks people have started with a 4x4 and have been able to make it work but it is way more headache.

Rule of thumb is lifting = stiffer suspension therefor not as smooth as you would want. There are other measures you can take to make it ride a little better with different style shocks (tho larger ones get expensive) and tires with alot of rubber on them. It will be noiser, but smoother. I kinda like the noise

this is my second auto ever, all my other cars and trucks have been sticks, including the S-20 but i feel ya man, fuck autos and all these stupid problems. i just want to drive already without stupid petty crap messing everything up!!!!!!!!!!!

Alright today i got the plug loose (that bitch was like super glued down or something) found the correct wire, ran the new lead to the main ignition wire on the ignition switch, 15a fuse inline. Took it on a test drive and everything was cool. problem with this is iv gone 2-3 days before it would screw up, so im not out of the water yet. hopefully its fixed but like i said before im not holding my breath. if this dosnt solve the problem im not sure what will.... but the tranny guy wouldnt touch it till this problem was fixed. he wanted me to change the whole ignition harness, but thats a chunk of change for just one wire to have a possible short. god i hate transmissions

and i was right it started fucking up again. so 2marro im running that wire, first thing in the morning. there are two pink wires, so when i pull the plug im hoping they both goto the same pin. if they dont im just gonna test them both with the multimeter with ignition on, and whichever is hot when ignition is on is the one getting tagged, then im running the wire to the column, putting a 15a fuse inline, and tap to the column ignition where my alarm and other accessories connections are made. Hope this works, if it dosnt I dont know what to try next, or what the guy at the tranny shop is gonna tell me to try. wish me luck, and post any other ideas you guys think it could be???

ah never thought of it that way. the weirdest thing is every single time it would fuck up, if i would go somewhere, park for more then like 10mins, come back it would shift like nothing was wrong!! maybe that was the confused MAF, but it would only do it when i first drove the truck after it being off the entire night that it would do it, so basically when its dead cold. god so i hope it dosnt come back and that MAF fixed it, otherwise im gonna start with running that wire to the trans, THEN if its still fucking up, im really gonna let the guy at the tranny shop get a fuckin earful.... cause this shit is ridiculous

the last 2 days iv had a bunch of doctors appointments. but the last two days its shifted just fine... But im pretty sure the truck will run and shift without it.... very weird it makes me wonder if the MAF had something to do with it? Im gonna keep testing it each day and when it starts fuckin up again im gonna get the plug pulled (now that I know the correct way without breaking it, cause that would be real expensive and difficult to replace) and try to hardwire the pink wire(s?) to the ignition, then go from there. does anybody know any further about that MAF ? To me it dosnt make sense, but im sure theres somebody on here that can explain if it could be responsible, cause it dosnt seem like it should to me, yet the truck has ran fine since i swapped it. is it just dumb luck? Big quinceedince(sp) and it has nothing to do with it? what do you guys think??

good to know il try again. I did try that last time but was scared to yank to hard, and not knowing if that was the right way in the first place. il give it another go, thanks man!

damn thats all bad! mine is on tranny number two, but hasnt leaked any fluid. god i hope thats not the next thing to go wrong tho, right?? horrible luck with this damn thing! iv never had to take any vehicle to a shop before ever, this is a first because i dont kno trans, or shit about them. example, the trans in it now is one i bought on craisglist 3 years ago to do a 5spd to auto swap in the s20. counted splines and it bolted up to my silverado when the trans went out. BUT that craigslist tranny is causing me all the problems now, and add that to a shady ass shop. i got fucked. live and learn i guess, but i have to get this shit under control. i dont have the money to buy a new one, or even pay for a rebuild. thats why i got a repair instead, and wish it was any other shop in sacramento. ud think an old timer would be the best guy to take it too, but hes the fucking WORST

I know right?? we were just texting about this! I do hope you DONT let 'Transmissions Only' off el camino touch your shit. And i do hope yours goes well, and i hope mine gets figured out!!! god do i want your amp too, but just dont have the cash (unfortunatly is probably what youv heard alot of trying to sell it lol) GL with the sale tho, that things a powerhouse EDIT: bro i love that avatar, where the hell did you find that?? lol!

Update: so yesterday i did change out the MAF sensor since its been throwing a code for a while now. today i got under the truck and couldnt for the life of me remove that round transmission plug. i was scared to death to break it, so i wasnt letting the anger make me do something stupid... as you know the angle from under the truck to see the plug, is real difficult, and all you can see is like a 1/4 of the rear of the plug, where there were no tabs to push, tabs to lift for removal, and feeling around couldnt feel them either.... I DID NOT WANT TO BREAK IT!! but after this i did pull the loom from the wire, to see two pink wires very close together. now if i could unplug the damn thing i could follow them to see if they go to the same pin, before i start tagging wires. and its gonna be near impossible to tag that wire with it plugged in, and still difficult to do with it unplugged. I just need to get that thing unplugged so i can start soldering

thank you! your one of the people i was hoping to tune in and i appreciate your response! He did tell me that there was a way to wire a 15a wire to the transmission, but made it sound like it was rocket science and dint understand what i can do (remote starts, etc) so he said before even 'thinking about that' i need to get my ignition switch fixed. i dont think theres anything wrong with it, and the only reason he does is becuase his fancy dancy snapon scanner scanner reccomended it as a possible problem. but before i buy a 100 dollar switch i will try and hard wire a 15a ignition wire to the pink wire you reffered too and see if it works. it does sound like something electrical, but im just not a tranny guy and i dont kno how to work on them. 2marro il start digging around and following wires, and when i find it key on and see what the voltasge is at. problem is it could be at 12v and only be getting like 2 amps thru if there is a problem or partial short in the wire, but if its getting power and no luck il try and run a new one to ign, ad a 15a fuse and try it and see if it works. thanks for your input again, is there anything else i should do?

when he told me that, i felt like he was just trying blame anything, but il check it. Any other ideas of what to check for? i still think the guy screwed something up and is giving me the cold shoulder. after a 1600 fucking dollar repair im just a little ticked off at the guy

I know SMD isnt a place for questions like this, but there might be sombody out there thats been in the same boat or that has more knowledge then me on the subject.... i have this on other websites as well trying to get help I have a 1998 silverado 5.0L. about a month ago my tranny went out. I had a 4l60e in my garage i bought on craigslist (big mistake) for my other truck. When we removed the old trans and did the swap, counted splines, it was a direct fit and it was good to go... for 2 weeks. then that that one lost all its gears... so I took it to Transmissions Only here in sacramento. 1600$ dollars later the guy 'repaired' it and i got the truck back. it drove great for a week, then it started having a problem.... when the truck is cold, like after going to sleep at night, coming out next morning cold, when you put it in reverse out of the driveway, then put it into Drive its in 2nd or 3rd gear... and when i start driving, it will not go into 4th. Also when i get off the freeway back into town, i try putting it in 1 2 and 3 and it still dosnt bring it down. so the light turns green, im in 3rd gear pushing on the gas. so when im on the freeway doing 65mph at 3200rpm im guzzling gas. so after i get to where im going, if i shut off the truck for around 10 mins or more, when i get back in the truck it works wonderful, shifts no problems, downshifts everything. I took it back to the tranny guy today and he plugs it into a Snap On Verus digital scanner thing. he showed the codes it was throwing: - p0102 mass airflow sensor voltage low input - p0740 torque converter clutch circuit open - p0785 shift timing solenoid when he repaired the transmission, he changed the tourque converter, both shift solenoids, gasket seal kits, transco valve correction, carbon fiber clutch kit, bushing kit, epc solenoid,pan filter, and atf. we cleared the obd2 when i left the shop, and it did drive fine for 2 weeks with no problems at all. so after those codes showing, he did some bullshit on the snap on and it 'recommended' due to the other data it collected that my ignision switch could be to blame. is this true or do you think its bullshit? i kinda feel like hes giving me the runaround, but i just dont understant transmissions.... ignition switch is a 100 bucks and im not gonna buy it unless other people tell me that could be the problem... im sorry guys i know this post it long, but i wanted to try and get as much info in as i could, pleeease help

I dont kno shit about monteros, all iv done with them is stereo and alarms. depending on your suspension setup, if your trying to lower it enough to need those notches, you are trying to get pretty low and might as well put a real notch in and go all the way down. regardless, you said thats not what you were going for, so I would keep looking for a big lowering kit that dosnt require that notch and see how you like it. if you get it and its not enough, then think about notches.

for an alarm?? thats alot of soldering!!! lol

i dont have a cookie, but have this beer!

FIXED!!! i went to check the ignition wire and it looked fine, until i unplugged it. the metal contact wasnt in the ttap!! im really embarrassed i cant belive i didnt catch that..... but its fixed thanks for everyones input!! im happy all my programming was correct, this is my 4th remote start, and last time on my 07 tbss i had to have jack help me. cars are getting to smart these days! Thats why you dont use t-taps! what do you use?

FIXED!!! i went to check the ignition wire and it looked fine, until i unplugged it. the metal contact wasnt in the ttap!! im really embarrassed i cant belive i didnt catch that..... but its fixed thanks for everyones input!! im happy all my programming was correct, this is my 4th remote start, and last time on my 07 tbss i had to have jack help me. cars are getting to smart these days!

no dice.... didnt work.... i am very curious about this resister thing im going to try and do some research. if somebody knows how please chime in. thanks!!! keep the ideas coming guys!!

THANK YOU! im going to go try that right now. if i did go the resister route, i have a radioshack 5 mins from my house to get the resisters, can you explain a little further how to do that? in the meantime im going to go try the trick you stated above. also in the programming i should have the brown wire disconnected while programming the resister value if i remember correctly also im pretty confident i have the right resister wires,a nd i found all three at the same place. but please xplain a howto for doing the resister, id like to know for future reference as well, and other ppl reading this thread would like it too!!! thanks again brotha!!!