CaptainzPlanetz

Depends on what sub your talking about, as brewer stated I was sorta using the AQ subs as an example when I was explaining it, 2000rms on a copper coil HDC3 wont be a problem now once we get past 3000rms it probably wont like it unless you know what you are doing. Now 3K on a Aluminum coil HDC3 wouldnt be a problem at all.

I think one of the links that comes up everyonce in a while is DealerCostCarAudio.

The coils dont really make a sub louder, the reason people go with aluminum coils is that aluminum disipates heat better there for giving the sub a higher power handling, if you had Sub A with Copper coils, and Sub B with Aluminum coils both off of 2K you wouldnt notice a difference while Sub A is reaching its thermal limits Sub B still has alot of headway before it reaches its thermal limits.

Is this the guy you are talking about, he used to have level 5's then he switched for the DP, then I havent heard anything since. name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>"> name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350">And I agree with Eric B, they are on 2 different levels, the BTL at 5K is pushing its limits, but then you see the Wardens in Beajays build and they are laughing at 7K a piece and hardly moving, and those are the 15's.

I agree with everyone he has cone area on you and double the power and then some, is his box build to specs? Or like Boon said is he using the shipping box it comes in LOL. I also have 2 CVX 12's and they get down, but I know once I upgrade to the LVL4XL's or BTL's that it will be a huge difference.

Impendence rise shouldnt be factored into your decision unless you are doing burps at a specific Hz, as it changes with Frequency. What will determine if you can run your amps at .5 ohms is your electrical to back up the amp, and of course if your amps can handle a .5 ohm load. So if your planning on running your amps at .5 then make sure you have the electrical to keep them happy.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ That or get one from MechMan or DC Power Rob.

I hate those little rattles that you cant find anywhere even though you already deadened your whole car, I had one for instance that took for ever to find, it was the a fuel line that seemed to me when the bass was down pretty damn secure, but when the bass goes up you find that the deadning quest never seems to end.

They would be basically a perfect match.

I didnt get it.....I figured it would basically be sorta like Halo 3, my money is going to Modern Warfare 2.

Yep Props, and I would of wrote more but I just spent the last 30 minutes making a giant SMD logo out of smiley faces to fill this post up, finding in the end I can not use that amount of smiley faces in a post LOL, I think it consisted of like 400 smiley faces LAWLZ.

I have heard they are great amps, and do rated, they are Zed built amps If you dont know who Zed is they are the same people that design the Arc Audio amps and Zapco amps.

On my car I have the subs toward the cabin sealed off from the trunk, it is about 4 inches from the seat at the top and about 7 at the bottom, and even when I put the seats up it still pounds maybe only about .5 to 1 db loss on the ear-o-meter. Though it would probably be a bitch to seal it off from the trunk since your seats dont fold down, also I have ran subs up port up, and subs back port back, with the same box before I sealed it from the trunk, and I couldnt tell much if any difference in my car, but I did notice an increase once I sealed it from the trunk.

A nice ported box, would give you a great increase in output. Do you have the width specs of your vehicle, and the height and depth you would be able to go.

The only time I spent more than like 20 bucks on a shirt is when I was at Mayhem Fest last year, and I got band T-shirts at the concert and a few I got signed by a few bands.

x2 Audio aint cheap, I dropped 1K just for my HU, but if you want to get the subs later, and just do a mids and highs upgrade for now you could probably do it with 1K, I would look on Sonic Electronix they have great prices, just research the stock speaker sizes and go off of that.

x2, Beast of a Sub.

Thanks for the reply, the amp is in the trunk, and the box is behind the sheet metal frame, and when my seats are up there is like 3 inches between top of the box and the seat.

If you have your subs firing into the cabin with the seat folded down sealed off from the trunk, is it still considered a trunk score? Just been wondering about that for a week or so.

LAWLZ, cant forget the hook.

Well you could have a cheaper amp that does like 30-40% what it is rated for, and doesnt output the cleanest power, or you could have a reputable amp that most likely puts out 10-15% more power than rated and does this with a very clean output. Edit: The only Crunch amp I would ever own is the Crunch3000GP.

Ok Gotcha, Not to mention it looked like it would be much easier to mount em up top then in the box.

Are you planning on changing your tuning Steve? Just wondering since you took the port off of the box.

If you want a Loud SQ sub, I would go with an RE XXX.