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Mitchaford

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Mitchaford last won the day on October 24 2017

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About Mitchaford

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  • Birthday 12/07/1995

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    PC GAMES AND MY SLOW CAR // clxmax.com

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  1. Glue cracking at former/spider

    Well then that crosses that out. Could you have been bottoming out the sub at all? possibly the coil hitting the back plate, pushing it up and to pull away from the spiders. Making a stress point and crack. Or the glue may not have set correctly. Any air bubbles in the bead would cause for a weak point.
  2. Glue cracking at former/spider

    Winter does that sometimes.
  3. Threaded inserts for SMD big reds

    Ok thanks guys! Just want to make sure everything is tight and fastened down. Sub has a bit of weight on it, can’t take a risk 😬
  4. Does anyone have/use threaded inserts with the SMD big red self tappers? I can order online I’m sure but if they are at Home Depot/ Lowe’s then even better. Ive been swapping subs with the same box. I don’t want the holes to get too get too worn down. Probbaly should have done this in the first place.
  5. Which subwoofer

    Have a few more options than that skar. They're nothing to write home about imo.
  6. Which subwoofer

    Sundown E-series has my vote. You could also just do one sub around that $300 range and it would more than likey be around that 1k rms area. I'm a big fan of hard-hitting single sub setups. Really depends on what your end goal is. As for those w6's. They are nice subs, just pretty expensive. Are they in a sealed enclosure or ported? If ported, what is the tuning?
  7. Question on how powerful I can go (stock electrical)

    I ran 4k on a stock alt but not stock batteries. All batteries were agm, group 34 in the front, and two group 31's in the rear. Running off just batteries and no real HO alt is not for me. Voltage was at a dead stop at 12.8v, basically hit a wall and I had to really clip to dip into the 11s but that is not happy voltage for my equipment imo.
  8. Question on how powerful I can go (stock electrical)

    At 2ohms you will be fine. Tune clean. Get a voltmeter.
  9. I like GP personally. Never had a bad experience with them with anything I've ordered. I think where people draw some dislike is from possible false claims about certain equipment. *subs that can take 50kw no problem* type of talk. 99% sure their alts are fully sourced and not made by them. I've seen builds with their alts doing big things. No hate on my end, I just think its opinion honestly. Headunit is fine. not the issue. My CT knobs go off prematurely. We tested my buddies DD knob and it did the same. They're not the end all be all obviously. Its not the box that would be causing the clipping, I just thought that the box could be too big/small for the sub. If you have a box that is too small, it will take more power for the sub to reach its mechanical limits Larger boxes tend to be more efficient but will take less power to reach the mechanical limits. Its all about the pressure. Smaller box = more pressure. Larger box = less pressure. Also the tuning and port area plays a big roll in that. If the box is tuned too high or too low, you could be missing out on a bunch of bass. Your box 80% of your sound. Seeing that the box you have isn't really big enough for that frankenwoofer you have, if you can mount the sub inverted then you'd get more airspace in the box. I just don't want you to spend money if you don't need to. A proper box will make a world of difference in your sound.
  10. GP isn't very popular here Just a matter of opinion most likely. If you're only going off the clip indicator on the knob then I'll go ahead and tell you now, its not super accurate. What is the headunit you're using? Are you monitoring your voltage while you play music? I definitely think you should upgrade you're electrical but I just think there is another issue because a weak electrical is easy to blame. Could also be your box.
  11. Wait a second. You have two group 31 agms and you’re only on 2krms? You should be fine with your electrical, assuming there isn’t a weak point in your wiring. the “loudness” setting on your head unit should be at 0 it will introduce distortion. i feel like this might just be a tuning problem and not an amp problem. What’s the headunit you’re running?
  12. suggestions 10k plus amps

    Sundown NS-2 Crescendo 10k B2 M15R AA TFE IA.80.1 DC 10k Taramps Bass 12k or that banda you listed. You could also do two 6k amps. Little bit more selection if you went that route.
  13. You would be wiring the batteries in parallel unless you want to run a high voltage setup. agm+lithium is a great combo. Seen and heard many builds with it and the voltage is always solid. Just know that even if you have x amount of batteries, you need to properly supply them with an alt. Your electrical should be the first thing done a build. Do it right the first time and you'll save yourself money and a headache down the road.
  14. I have the caps in and wired. All my electrical is basically all setup. Going to add another bank of caps when they become available. Don't think I'll need it but limitless is selling them at a solid price. Besides the clamp meter being dumb, I'm having some issues with my sub One of my subs coils reads 1.6 - 1.7 but the other is reading about 0.4 - 0.5 ohms I measured it at the terminals and on the leads. Still getting that 0.4 Can't even wire it because my amp just goes into protect. The sub has seen zero power and its a fresh recone. Not pointing fingers but I really hope Fi checks their coils before they send them out. Looks like I'm gonna have to order another recone.
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