Neo_frog

I gave my LVL5s 4k right out of the box and they smelled for a minute or two. They have been slowly getting louder and louder every day with no smell.

Well if you're really into the extremely low notes, you should tune lower than 36hZ. It becomes increasingly difficult to get lower tuning out of such small boxes With my last wall, it was tuned to 32hZ and the car peaked at 36, and with my new one (not sealed front to back/not tuned) the box is tuned to 29hZ and I'm peaking at 30 right where I wanted it. I was worried about sacrificing a little port area to get the desired tuning, but my subs have >9cu per with tons of power and it's doing wonderful. Just make the box as big as you can, and find the max length you can fit and use a TI-89 to solve for Av. You'll have to make adjustments to Vb each time, but it's worth the extra work. Do you have the equation or are you using a program?

Holy fucking shit balls. I've been doing it all wrong.

Use a dremel with a bolt cutting bit to sink a small slit in it. And as said, use a screw driver to turn it out. If you torqued the shit out of it (which I'm guessing you did) then you might have to drill it out and retap it.

Neil Barber bassraces 159.9 with his car off.

Fixed.

They are completely useless in car audio. Disregard anything anybody tells you otherwise.

Men lose their high and midrange hearing. Bass will not make you go deaf unless you are exposed to insane amounts of it constantly, which Steve is not. Hell, not even Chicken will go deaf from his bass. Go look up Fletcher Munson or equal loudness contours and that will give you an idea of what I'm talking about. And yes, Steve has posted quite a few times (along with other members) that he's passed a DOT physical which includes hearing test.

The original coil-rite bags I ordered had a major delay so I bought some actual sleeve bags instead. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEWNX%3AIT I'm hoping this will be more sufficient, but I would like some expert input. I'll be putting them on myself so any pointers would be helpful also.

^ Haha holy shit. Wall the bitch. :hairtrick:

Alerting the bureaus places the fraud alert on the account. Anybody who has had it stolen wishes they had followed these steps. It just requires any new credit to be verified by you. Don't forget, some people carry their social in their wallets. I'd do it if it happened to me.

I hear ya. I just rented a trailer to get it to my buddy's and I had to stack 2x12s to get it up on the trailer so it didn't bottom out on the drive ups.

You could buy some heavy duty towing springs if they make them, or buy a bag kit. Mine is so bad it's sitting in my buddy's garage waiting on the bags. My rear tire wells rub the back tires. EDIT: spelling

I'd love to see the look on anybody's face if they broke my back window and saw what was behind it. But yeah man, keep up on that shit and don't just let it slide. Fucker will keep doing it until he gets hammered.

Here are a few things I’ve come across to protect yourself from identity theft. I thought it would be good info to pass to all. Hopefully you can benefit from this information. 1. Do not sign the back of your credit cards. Instead, put 'PHOTO ID REQUIRED' 2. When you are writing checks to pay on your credit card accounts, DO NOT put the complete account number on the 'For' line. Instead, just put the last four numbers. The credit card company knows the rest of the number, and anyone who might be handling your check as it passes through all the check processing channels won't have access to it. 3. Put your work phone # on your checks instead of your home phone. If you have a PO Box, use that instead of your home address. If you do not have a PO Box, use your work address. Never have your SSN printed on your checks. You can add it if it is necessary. But if you have it printed, anyone can get it. 4. Place the contents of your wallet on a photocopy machine. Do both sides of each license, credit card, etc. You will know what you had in your wallet and all of the account numbers and phone numbers to call and cancel.. Keep the photocopy in a safe place. It’s also a good idea to carry a photocopy of your passport when you travel either here or abroad. We've all heard horror stories about fraud that's committed on us in stealing a name, address, social security number, credit cards, etc.. 5. We have been told we should cancel our credit cards immediately. But the key is having the toll free numbers and your card numbers handy so you know whom to call. Keep those where you can find them. 6. File a police report immediately in the jurisdiction where your credit cards, etc., were stolen. This proves to credit providers you were diligent, and this is a first step toward an investigation (if there ever is one). But here's what is perhaps most important of all: 7. Call the three national credit reporting organizations immediately to place a fraud alert on your name and also call the Social Security fraud line number. The alert means any company that checks your credit knows your information was stolen, and they have to contact you by phone to authorize new credit. Now, here are the numbers you always need to contact about your wallet, if it has been stolen: 1.) Equifax: 1-800-525-6285 2.) Experian (formerly TRW): 1-888-397-3742 3.) Trans Union : 1-800-680 7289 1-800-680 7289 4.) Social Security Administration (fraud line): 1-800-269-0271 Also, for those of you looking into LifeLock, these are all the steps taken by that company; a service for which you pay $10 a month, only to have a disclaimer against a defect in their services. Chances are, if your identity is compromised, you will not be reimbursed by them if they’ve done the steps above. (Just an extra note I’ve picked up with research).

I love history threads. X2 on the good score.

Hidden kill switch. When you get pulled over (unless you are the ONLY person on the road) show him that you don't have beats because the "amp is blown". It worked for me twice, but then again I've only been pulled over twice since I put it in. I generally don't bump unless I'm on the highway though.

I was under the impression the rolling volume helped with impedance rise. That's why the high rollers always do it for SPL in the extreme class. Now I know for a fact they do it, but my reasoning could be dead wrong. My vote is buy another amp and wang it.

Exact same problems I was having. I've already had to warranty two 2400s with Kinetik and they are very smooth and easy to deal with. Just have them replace it and use something simple in the mean time. I suggest throwing a PM D3100 under the hood like me. It DOES fit.

Hmm good to know. I've never done this before so every abnormal condition (including safety tips) helps out. Thanks!

When electricity is applied to different materials, metal will be more conductive than a non-metal. If I test conductivity of metal, it will be higher than a non-metal. Something simple like those should suffice.

You REEEAAALLLYYY should......go for the best. @ other guys. Intel is some good shit if you can get TS clearance. Plus depending on where you end up working, you can score some bad ass jobs after you're done. Semper fi.

Well that's what I was talking about!

So I'll be removing the entire A/C system here shortly. I'm just wondering if there is anything I should be concerned about. My thought was to bleed the pressure off before cranking wrenches, but that's the only thing I can think of. Let me know what you know.