Neo_frog

Depending on your Kicker rep and existing warranty, they should fix it at no charge. Take it to a dealer with the receipt and have them send it out for recone. Or order one and do it yourself. It's a good learning experience. Especially if you don't really care for that sub.

Ok, sounds like the EGR could be my problem. I'll check on all that tomorrow. If I still have problems I'll repost.

Yeah, the check engine light is on with 0401 as a code and it's been that way since I replaced my IAT sensor and knocked out three other codes. I know that's some sort of EGR fault and my new valve comes in tomorrow, so it's due for replacement. It's a 2002 PT Cruiser. So any of those issues could be an "all of a sudden" problem?

I actually called Chris today and he's looking into it. We both agree it's most likely nothing to do with the module, but he's researching it. That's what I've been reading. Is that right on the throttle body? I tapped it and pulled it manually a few times, but I don't know where the position sensor is.

So I just installed my MLA module and put my battery back in the car. I started it up at the engine was pumpin at 2000RPM. I put it in Reverse and it idled normal again. It only idles at 2000 in Park and Neutral. Everything else is fine. I made sure it had nothing to do with the MLA by looping back and not going through it and it still does the same thing. What could this be? Any help would be appreciated..

Mods please lock! They are all sold

The PRs are incredible. I've never had problems with them and I've been alternating PRs and M3s for a few years. I know my Memphis products They also have a lifetime warranty with the receipt which I have. I have 6 left and they take 500W of clean power easily. 55 shipped.

If anyone's interested, I'd like to trade my last six Memphis Power Reference 10s for one Kinetik HC2400 battery. Anyone interested? This is a great deal!

Two pending sale to DUBIE. 7 still up

9 left 55 shipped. This is as low as I can go... Make an offer!

Nah, I need the money more than other equipment.

Bump

And to be brutally honest, we all know my tunnel build was shitty.

Unfortunately, yes. But remember I said these are all trial builds for (A) my experience and ( find the perfect PT setup. I'm not even keeping the car all that long but why not build like crazy right?

3/4" MDF. It's not a super power build, but it needs bracing. I could probably get away with 2x4s and screws, but what if I upgrade ya know?

I'm currently building a horizontal clam shell. I've been doing it all at work, so I haven't been able to start a build thread or post pics, but I ran into an issue... I'm bracing the baffles with all thread 'outside' the box (inside the clamshell V), but they are obviously angled and the all thread goes straight up and down through them. I have all the nuts and washers for it, but I dont know how to tighten the nuts down without the gaps. I can cut little wood pieces to flush it out, but I just don't see that as looking clean. Kind of an eye sore if you will. Does anybody have a way I can do this maintaining a clean look? I am stumped and I can't post pics cause I'm at work building it. EDIT: And if you post a pic of how yours was done, I can't see that either until I get home

You'll be just dandy. I have four runs of 1/0 KnuKonceptz wire front to back all + and double runs 1/0 Big 3 with it. I'm running 8000W so your runs should be fine. IMO chassis grounds are sufficient rather than wasting time running negative leads from the front. But if you have extra wire, more power to you!

3 runs of 1/0 is better than one of 4/0 even. The ampacity tables might say otherwise, but you're getting less impedence through three runs 1/0. Or you can get some nasty buss bars and remove your firewall to run something like ^ Where can one find those bars anyways?

Make the best of it! Congratulations

Ahh.. Thanks!

I took that second battery out. In the second build, I put the breakers in there instead. And I left the original IAT on the car and put it into the new filter. I'm gonna try to buy a new one today. Maybe warranty my O2 again and check all my wires.

I now have ten left people back home suck at everything including life. I'll sell ten for 600 shipped. I need these gone!!! I don't know how to change the title otherwise I would do it... Or $60 a piece shipped anywhere in US

Jason West Crown Point, IN Neo_frog, Neofrog46307 Known as "the frog" out here.

I did the On/Forward/Reverse/Off(x4) method and then the ACC/On(x4) and the codes appeared on the odometer. I was under the impression that was an attempt to reset the codes. It didn't work though. I replaced the O2 sensor (didn't check the harness) and I just put my old IAT back in... It might be broken though.. I'll check tonight when I get off work. I should have more answers tomorrow! Thanks a lot for the help this saves me so much money.

Wow thanks a lot! That's the complete diagnostic test isn't it? I put the old one back in.