Neo_frog

As far as wires to the sensors, they seem to be alright. I haven't followed them out from there though.

Ever since I put in my new air filter, my engine has thrown out two codes. I installed it about a year ago and have since lost the stock filter *slaps forehead*. I'm throwing P0135 and P1193. I don't know how to fix them! Replacing the O2 sensor should have gotten rid of P0135 and replacing the Intake Temp Sensor should have killed the other one... I can't pass emissions or get plates now and I can't find any more answers. Does anybody have ALLDATA or something of the sort to give me a hand here??? 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser 2.4L DOHC Thanks guys.

Are the subs the quad 1s? (I can't see pics at work if you showed them..)

More cone area @ same power = more air movement Cause: Looking up Raven Riley Effect: Sticky Keys is permanently activated.

I would sing along the WHOLE hour as loud as I could.

Bump Make an offer!

Down to two subs for sale! $130 shipped! Let's get these sold!

Le Tigre - Cars That Go Boom

One of my drunk friends punched my screen and cracked the hell out of it so I was hoping someone would have a non-functional one with a good screen for a good price. He is no longer allowed over.. EDIT: pm me if you have one!

BTW if anybody wants, we can set up something on eBay so you guys get that 10% coupon off your order (select eBay members only I think??). Just message me on there if you're a serious buyer and I'll set up a multiple sub listing (as one item) so you get the discount on all of them. That's only good until the end of November! EDIT: If you don't trust me on here, you can always go to eBay and get them for the same price. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=230310122581

It'll be 65 shipped per sub to anywhere in the continental US with tracking #s. So 780 shipped in all original Memphis sub boxes and transport boxes. You'd get six tracking numbers for this.

Two seconds later and this pic was going up. 10 subs available right now. They are also on eBay. 65 shipped per sub. I suggest buying in pairs so I can ship them in the original Memphis cardboard boxes.

I've seen it done!

Heh, I figured that much, but I'm wondering when it becomes dangerous and how to know. EDIT: With different applications of course.

I see what you're saying entirely. I try not to hold grudges with these online entities we call mods. But they are all people too. And yes...it would be different on the street. I haven't had mods tell me to stfu, but when I see them do it, it's usually for a good reason. These guys know their shit, but if they bash my work, I tell them how it is without being belligerent and ask them for advice. I think that being ridiculous and freaking out is what gets people banned. There's no need to get ridiculous on here. Opinions are like assholes.

I've heard that underpowering large subwoofers can burn it up due to air not being able to get to the coil.. How do you determine this? I'm asking because if someone has two 18D2s and they run two amps for competition, then one amp @ 2-ohms for daily, that would only be 1/4 of the power getting to the subs. Do you base it solely on excursion? Example: 2 Fi BTL 18s D2 (since everybody seems to know them) 2 4000W amps for competition and just one for daily... Could that potentially burn them up? I haven't seen any threads with this question.

Here's what i came up with: 16cu. and 15x15x22.5 port I guess I could reduce to 12x12x12, but I apparently wouldn't have enough port area. I don't think this will work...I need to make the box bigger. I just don't want to sacrifice sound for the box to work. I gotta make it about 20cu at least before displacement for proper fit... But each sub would get 2.5 with that. Reason is, my front face must be 36x36 for all subs to fire forward.

Alright thanks! Love the sig.

Ok...that sounds like a better number. With that, I'm gonna build it about 16cu internal before port and drivers. I haven't been up to speed to calculate port tuning, but I would have max front face port dimensions of 12x12. I want to tune to 33hZ. Could someone point me in the right direction for port tuning?

I figured. But does anybody know the 'real-life' application? These numbers just don't work.

The specs say for a ported enclosure, the 10" Fi BL needs .5 - 1.2... If I did eight of them on a wall, I seriously only need 9.6 cu.? That sounds ridiculous. It would almost be hard to build that small! And do they really take 1000W RMS? What's the * for on the website?

My electrical system is completely upgraded from stock. Big 3 with double 1/0, 4x 1/0 front to back, 4 Kinetik batteries and 300A alt. Is this really "basic"?

While running you mean? They hover at 13.5V at idle with no draw, and the initial screaming subs drops it to 12.9 then slowly drops to 12.5 before I kill it (.1V / 3 seconds @ 45hZ full volume).

Well according to Memphis techs, they say my amp pulls 400 at full tilt. So wouldn't I be losing out even more with the t4k? Maybe I should just get a shit load of MCD1000s... I'm gonna buy some more 2400s and the module. I'll just do what I can and rely on storage. My new design has a battery bank area so I have room. Thanks for the info guys! You've been very helpful. EDIT: And according to EVERYBODY, there's no possible way to go >300A or install more than one alternator on a PT.

Do they share the same low current trait as the T15K?