creyc

The recone +18" option will cost $450 for both, which would put me well on my way to getting 2 brand new, larger subs. Or that was kind of the plan I just came up with. Hmm, BL's or HDC3s... Will a copper coil HDC3 take 1500 rms daily?

I've got $600 to spend on subs

I'm trying to spend as little as possible, while still getting quite a noticeable improvement. Basically I'm trying to get my money's worth. AA Mayhems are a bit out of my budget, and BL's are pushing it. I was about to order BLs earlier today but felt like bouncing the ideas off a few people who've actually had experience with these particular subs so I'm sorry its a boring thread x100. I listen to music, so I'm not looking for something that will only play high. I know lots of people use HDC3s for SPL, but I've never heard one on lows/music. This sub is getting me very interested however, and the price is very reasonable. How would it compare to a BL on music?

I'm trying to figure out which sub to put in my blazer. I'll be running (2) subs, 18s most likely. I had been running 15" Havocs and they're loud and sound great but its not loud enough. I've been wanting to run Fi BLs for a long time but it's quite a few bucks. Optionally, I could recone my Havocs to 18s with upgraded soft parts and coils (8-layer alum) for half the price of the BLs. I have a feeling they still wouldn't be nearly as loud as the BLs however. What would you run run in my situation? Amp is a SAZ-3000D at 0.5 ohm DCR on strong electrical. I want to make a decision soon, I'm fiending for bass.

Yea its definitely the angle of the picture, the top plate and pole piece are perfectly aligned. Here's a slightly better pic. And you got PM scapelli.

Rather than recone these myself I've decided to just step up to bigger subs. SO, up for sale are my two Ascendant Audio Havoc motors with baskets. These are without a doubt the best SQL subwoofer I've ever used, and a quick online search will show I'm not the only one with this opinion. With sound quality similar to that of the Fi Q but with increased power handling this sub makes a devastating daily driver sub. If you're familiar with Fi Qs, AA Havocs, you know what these are. It's a triple stack Fi motor, 15" 12-spoke basket. Large pole vent for tons of cooling on daily pounding. Rated for 1250 rms, but play loud, tight, and painfully hard hitting on 1500+ from my SAZ-3000D at 0.5 ohms without breaking a sweat. I probably would have stuck with these beasts far longer but thanks to a poor recone without proper shimming, the coils on both subs failed in the same way, rubbing in the gap. They still had quite a bit of thermal power handling left, despite running them on my SAZ-3000D at 0.5 ohms. The gap is very clean, no shifted slugs or motor damage. Will ship with or without baskets. I'm looking to get around 180 each with basket. You can get a recone shipped for 100 bucks, making a badass sub on the cheap. Make an offer I might be willing to work with you a bit.

Eh there's a lot of dumbass shit talkers around my town. Thinking their 2 flea market brand 15's are the meanest thing in town, powered by an MTX knock off "2400 watt" amp. I let them have their fun. Then I'll do an install, recent example two Fi Q 10s behind the seats of my brothers SINGLE CAB truck and completely destroy these shit talkers without saying a word. Funny, now some of them are coming to me to build their systems. And because I never tried arguing with them in the first place, I'm now in a position to gladly take their money.

As long as you're playing un-clipped music that sub should take 1300 watts all day long, especially with the cooling option. I would re-check your gain and make doubly sure you aren't clipping. Play a sine wave (-3dB, 45Hz or so) and roll the volume up, you should easily be able to hear it distort if you're clipping. If you can set gain with an o-scope that's your best bet. Failing that I always set it by ear and double check on a DMM. Setting with a DMM has never given me good results in my experience. Just my two cents. And since you mentioned nothing of a burning smell chances are the sub is fine, but I would definitely let it cool (and my ears rest) every couple songs if it were me..

its true. And strength itself is definitely not the reason for crimping. I never suggested putting lots of force on the connections, but what happens when you get in a fender bender and some of your batteries shift forward a half an inch, enough to put tension on some random wire in your battery bank. Now is it gonna be a $500 bumper fix or a totaled ball of flaming equipment? That may be extreme but stranger things have happened. Besides, if you're skeptical at all...theres always that whole scientific fact of the better electrical connection which you can use to justify your choice to crimp.

BTLs will be louder. They are more efficient subs. They won't however sound as good.

Yea some options can't be combined OR ordering one option already includes other options. Like the cooling package, which includes the hyper pole option.

Running a completely new remote line to switched 12v takes a bit of work, and it might not even fix the problem. So why not run a short little "jumper" wire from remote terminal straight into the 12v input on the amp, with the 1/0. This will keep the amp on as long as its connected, so you can run other tests to see if it still shuts off at high volume.

I use the Hyperdynamics mic. It reads 1-3dB LOWER than a TL but I can't really complain for 80 bucks Plus it's consistent.

The only real concern with painting the amp would be for heat dissipation reasons. (and obviously warranty) As long as you keep the paint off the heat sink portion of the amp and just play around with the sheet metal, you can do damn near whatever you want to it.

Where are the holes, on the cone or the surround? Get pics of the damage first definitely.

So you're saying the DC Level 4's got louder than the BL's off the same amount of power? Seems odd seeing that the BL is quite a bit more efficient sub, just a bit below a BTL.

What are they anchored to? And do you plan on trimming it out on top and sides? It's basically already a wall for the most part..

Yea I just read some of the things they're changing. Larger permanent magnet, more motor strength, better cooling. Sounds like a good overall improvement and a major plus for the BL side!

I've narrowed my choices down, and decided to wall the blazer. Now its time for some subs. I'm trying to build a mean daily setup that pounds on music. I've got a sundown 3000 for power, and the electrical to back it. I'm not sure how much airspace I'll have but it should be a little under 20 cubes. I'm on a budget so I want to run two 18s with the option of expanding to 4 later on when I get more amp power. Both of these subs are competitively priced, with good reviews of each so the choice is hard. Right now I'm leaning towards the BLs.

By any chance, you are doing all this testing with the car running, correct? What voltage are you seeing on your dash?

Faceplates go for like $5 on the street in the right circles...pretty lame.

Trying to fit 3 of them in that trunk, I would probably go with sealed. Three 13.5's is a lot of subwoofer, trying to fit a large ported box in and out might not be in your future What are your max dimensions you have to work with?

that just looks louddd!

hah! Go read their warranty policy and then you can ask me if I'm "talking out of my ass". They don't have to do shit, nor would I expect them to if that were my amp. Sure sometimes you'll catch a break but you certainly shouldn't feel entitled to one..

Router is nice but takes a bit of setup to get the guide on and all. In the same amount of time I can freehand cut a hole out with a jigsaw, and you'd be surprised how accurate you can be by hand. Now if you've got 3 or 4 to cutout I'd setup the router.