Ben Building

I think Craigslist is potentially much better for buyers than sellers.

I have built ported boxes that downfire, upfire, backfire (Wait, that didn't sound right!) and never had any problems unless the port is smothered by something. Just keep your port clear and your enclosure will not care which direction you turn it. Your truck will though. With an underseat truck box, it would be great if you can get that floor moving because that's where your "cabin gain" effect will come from. Don't build a sealed box unless your sub NEEDS a sealed box. If it will work in a ported box, definitely do that.

How can being Black be a gimmick? They should have AutoTunes for posts....

I didn't see it in your sig, but what kind of car do you have? What are your rear seats like?

X2 The 2150SX's were beasts! I wish I still had them because they would be in the trunk right now. The Class-D amps were revolutionary, for sure, but that old AB power was great. My last Orions were 2 little 225 HCCAs that ran red hot on .5 Ohms daily for about 2 years. I miss those too. Regardless of what people say, we HAD flex back in the day. Those 600 watt RMS Orion amps sounded as loud as some 2000 watt class-D slugs do today. Go figure. My 2150sx's kept tearing the cone off of 2 Crunch Pro Cast 18s, but sounded ungodly in the process. That system would literally shake the ground next to it! On topic, those HCCA subwoofers are just a continuation of the impeccable reputation Orion has maintained for years. Nobody ought to be ashamed to run those woofers. Believe me, all the FI and DC guys respect those HCCA subs even if they are not running them. The HCCAs are tremendous subs and, if you put them in the right box, nobody will be able to argue with the results. :hairtrick:

LOL, man! Nice, creative vid. Funny as hell, too!

If you don't want to spend a lot, Honda CRX's are a no-brainer. They are small and tight with a relatively large square space to play around in. Also, there are tons of cheap aftermarket parts for these cars.

How do you know that your current box is tuned to 34hz?

That looks much better than your first design. Just make sure to brace the inside of that port wall. I could never use up the seat space in my Ram for an enclosure, so I am looking forward to seeing how yours turns out. GL

You need another box. Your subs should be making you famous right now. It appears from your post that they are making the ENERGY they should, they are just using it on the wrong frequencies because of your box. I have gotten some good results by placing subs in EBS ("Extended Bass Shelf") alignment, but primarily for smaller subs that need assistance for adequate low-bass extension. There is no free lunch, however. You will give up output, which, apparently is not what you want. Build another box... :hairtrick:

Thanks, Alec! Basically, you guys are telling me that I need to stick to what I have. Cool. I have enjoyed owning the laptop so far, but it is understood that I need to be looking to replace and not upgrade. For some reason, I went into this thinking that laptops are modular, like desktops, where you can mix and match things and still expect them to work. Since my screen cracked, I have had the occasion to hear some horror stories about people tinkering with laptops. Now, I just want to get mine closed back up and see that green light on when it leaves the shop!

Will I need another video card or something for this? Also, they have 1 bulb and 2 bulb versions. Would I be correct in assuming that the 2 bulb screen would be brighter, but would use more power?

Here is a link for the 17 inch version for $169. http://www.nylaptopparts.com/index.php?mai...products_id=498 $169 < $1300. My screen may even be cheaper than this one because my screen size is 16.5". Any information would be appreciated.

Anybody out there?

I had a small accident with my computer last night that resulted in a crack in the lower right corner of the screen. There is a black part in the crack that appears to contain some sort of constellation and there are lines running vertically up the screen. The computer is a Sony Vaio VGN-FW170J. It has a 16.5" 1080p screen and all the options you could pay for in 08. Other than that, the computer has never been opened. Obviously, that will have to change shortly. My question is where can I get a screen for this laptop that performs better than the factory version? The Vaio has worked out very well for me so far so I am not ready to upgrade quite yet. My only gripe with the computer is the dimness of the screen. It is detailed, sure, but it is not very bright and the blacks are kind of grey. How can I do better on the replacement screen? Alternatively, if I am stuck with a factory replacement, where is the best place to get one? Finally, since the computer is going to be opened soon anyways, what can I do to freshen its performance up some between now and whenever I decide to get a new laptop? The computer is reasonably fast, however, it is a LOT faster than my wife's slick new ASUS. I was thinking of adding RAM, a video card, and a bigger HD to mine, but since I am pretty satisfied with its performance so far, should I leave well enough alone and just fix the screen?

Steve Meade has people thinking crazy. lol

Have you checked out the American Bass VFL 100.1? Great amp.

Take a look at these: http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/subwoofe...ew-lanzars.html They handle a conservative 1600 watts RMS each and can be had for around $200 each.

x2. If you don't know the parameters of your sub, then the wt3 would help you measure them. You can do it manually, but this way is far better because the computer won't make a human error. Manufacter's parameters can be off sometimes, even enough to affect your end results. It is always better to measure them yourself. Since you've bought one of the best subs out there, we will assume you don't want to take any chances with your bass.

Amps are square on the ends, which means that fluids, like air, will create turbulence on the low pressure side while trying to flow around it. Turbulence is the opposite of what you want inside of a port because it is so chaotic. With a turbulence-inducing shape inside, the port will behave like a much smaller port. How much smaller of a port would be virtually impossible to calculate beforehand without some serious number-crunching power. But don't take my word for it. :01nocomment8so: Build it and see for yourself.

If you put an amplifier in your port, then you will destroy any predictable flow characteristics for that port. Translation: your enclosure may sound ok, but it will almost certainly perform worse than expected with an amplifier clogging its port.

Have you tried that box with the subs to the rear?

I agree with this also, in theory. The rear port right in front of the external one will cause over/under pressure disturbance in the front port (degree depending on power level and tuning).

Nice Box! If you get the ports right, it will bang!! :hairtrick: :hairtrick: If I were you, I would not put the internal port right in front of the main port. The reasons for this don't pertain to tuning (it will be about the same), but rather with port noise. If the internal port is right in front of the other, then you will be able to hear any noises the internal port makes. Tucked over into the corner, it will be shielded by the wood. If you haven't done a box like this before, I would highly recommend using round ports for the internal, just in case you need to change tuning. I apologize for this unwanted advice if you've already done a test box and already know where to tune... Good luck.

So will 2 Optidrive 1233Ds. Like these: http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/subwoofe...ew-lanzars.html ...for about $475 for two.