siucsaluki11

way too small of a box. Keep in mind the port, sub and bracing take up volume too. And that 15 is going to want more than 3 after displacement let alone before. Pretty much your going to need to use your max dim you listed to have enough port area and be able to tune it where you want, and its still only gunna be about 3.2 cubes after displacement, which will work, but its a bit small IMO

another amp that does good at 2 ohms are the JBL GTO series. the GTO24001 amo is rated at 2400 at 2 ohms, but from what ive heard these do well past rated. And with 300A of fusing, i could see that.

was talkin to a guy at the maxxonics 3x show last weekend. He was running 2 9515s of a stetsom amp. He said he tested the amp and it put out more power than its 1 ohm rating at about 2.6 ohms after box rise. He said the amps are just beasts, and he ran it daily.

why an angled box? All that does is take away from your useable space for the enclosure.

id go to an AQ2200D or a sundown amp or something like that.

do the math, find the cone area of each woofer. the w 15s have more, alot more cuz theyre square. Therefore you give them the same amount of power as the BTL and efficiency of the woofers is relatively close, the 15s will be louder. Maybe the 2 12s are in an enclosre built FOR those woofers, unlike your box. Also, are those amps 1800w RMS or are they like mine that is roughly 900w RMS but kenwood says on the box 1800 peak (no i didnt get sucked in by numbers, the price was right and i needed a new amp).

14H x 48w x 15D and alot of port and that will get you close to 4 cubes tuned around 35

^^^ what he said.

Excursion on the RE audio XXX is way more than the BTL, but BTL gets louder. Its not about excursion necessarily. In your case its about cone area and power. The 2 15s in a propperly designed enclosure will be louder than the 18 in the right enclosure.

it was great meetin up with you too. Too bad i lost my disc in the shit at the disc golf course. But gimme a call anytime you wanna play somewhere else, lol. Sorry i didnt get ahold of ya yesterday, was busy doin shit all day, but we should play a few rounds next time youre free.

those 2 15s should be louder than the 1 18 off the same amp assuming they all wire to the same final load. More cone area off same power. And its a good amount more cone area. Unless the L7s are just horribly inefficient, they should be louder.

Thats what i was tryin to say, you would have a tiny bit of output cuz its theory, but in reality nothing is perfect. So he would have definately known, i was just saying it wouldda made a bigger impact than your post made it seem, thats all.

You sure??? I mean, in theory, if there were 2 subs exactly the same getting the same signals in a single chamber, they would completely cancel each other out, wouldnt they? If it were one out of 3 then the 2 would overpower it and it should only sound like there were 1 sub not 3. 1 out of 4, it should sound like 2 subs, i would assume, just going off what i remember from HS physics a few years back now.

If they were out of phase you shouldnt have gotten much if any sound iirc. I mean, the waves would cancel eachother out, and therefore there should be no sound. You sure it was out of phase?

I know the DD 9500s will. The HDC3A 18s will get low really well too. I took a ride in one last sunday that had 2 of them each on its own MM4000.1 and he played hood N***A s/c and it hammered the lows.

Dont make the one to the specs you listed for your dimmensions. like i said, with the dimmensions you gave that box is WAY too big. Those pioneers will not be happy

AudioQue SDC2.5 series. the 10 is 129 the 12 is 139 and the 15 is 159, just under your 160 tag. Ive heard their HDC line and if the SDC line is half of the quality of the HDC line as far as build quality, they are best bang for the buck.

install is everything. More cone area with the 2 15s. But you can put more power on the BTL if you know what ur doin. Like stated above, you can get flex of 2 12s. My roof has some decent flex, as does the rear hatch. And i only got 2 12s and 900w to the pair of em. Plenty of people here will design a box for a small fee. Like the 2nd post said. Footlongsam is supposed to do good work, i believe james does designs, ive toyed around with them, if youre interested, feel free to hit me up with a PM

^^^sorry if this is off topic but.. Why is it certain subs like DD need so much port and others need less? How do you determine these things? I know DD says make sure to give it a massive port. Does that apply to AQs HDC3 series? I know the AQs are supposed to be close to one of the DD lines, i just cant remember which one.

XL 18s are great bang for the buck, but they are still more expensive then the HDC3A 18, the one with the aluminum coils. Those are like 340 a pop. Cant beat that for a beast of a woofer that drops low, sounds good doing it, and will take +3500w if you know what ur doin. IMO Best bang for buck woofer is the HDC3 series with the aluminum coils, or even with the coppers if ur runnin around 1500w each, from AudioQue.

Even with having almost 17 in sq of port per cube that box would be way too big even after bracing im assuming. Thats closer to a 6.5 cube box. Im assuming that is way too big for those 12s.

Sat in a ride on sunday that had 2 AQ HDC3 18s in a box tuned at 38 Hz. He put on Hood N**ga c/s and played juicebox also. Lemme tell ya, after that demo, lowest id tune an AQ sub is 35 Hz. I couldnt believe it dropped so low with a 38Hz tuning.

well if i can do this itl be my first new car, im only 20, few months away from 21. I got good credit, paid off like 13k in loans early, so im hoping i can find a job, then get a new car. Thinkin an A3 or an Eclipse, but idk i need to find something roomy, seeing as im almost 6'6"

See, im just worried as to whats gunna go next on my blazer. By april i had spent 7k keepin it running this year. Jan-fuel pump and suspension stuff~2k Early april-new rear diff (upgraded to a aubrun gear posi unit and Yukon ring and pinion gear) ~ 3k The day i went to pick up the blazer from the shop after the rear diff i get a call saying the transmission is shot too. By this point in time im 5k deep this year alone, so whats another 2k to rebuild the trans? All together, about 7k this year in repairs, not counting the new goodies i put in for stereo stuff. Every day i drive it i wonder whats gunna break next. It sucks that they will destroy it, but if i am given the oppertunity, and i could get a car i actually like, i would most definately get a NEW car and not deal with the 14 MPG and even less if i use the air, and the constant worry of whats gunna break next.

I wanna say if you have an SUV you trade in you automatically get the 4500