siucsaluki11

i wish i had a friend with a system....i also wish i didn't have to completely pull out my rear seat to get to my amps....its a bitch to put back in.... i may just have to shell out the dough in hopes that it is the issue. theres no way for me to wire the HU to my speakers...well, there is, but it would take more time than i have to spare at the moment. EDIT: Now that we have unofficially confirmed my amp is TOAST, any suggestions in the 160 range? The hifonics ZRX1000.4 looks good, but i can't find reviews on it.

The amps share a ground, they go to the same grounding block and are grounded to the same spot. Yes i checked that when i did the install, its a good ground. I doubt it is the HU since i loose my mids AND my highs, which are run off 2 separate sets of channels (l/r) from the HU itself (CDA9887), rather than running rear speakers, i ran 1 set to the mids, 1 for the highs. and i loose both at the same time. Its not even at a high volume. I turned the sub amp off at the HU (it doesn't power it down, just doesn't send it signal) and it still happens. It happens as low as 15/35 (and i can't go past 17 or it WILL happen), and the internal amp on the HU has been turned off since i installed it, I've never used the interal power amp once. It doesn't matter if the sub amp is on or not, the 4ch cuts out. The amp has been installed for about 3 years now in this car, and I've had subs along with it the whole time. Even when i had the BRZ and my stock battery, i killed my BRZ, but the 4ch stayed strong. i think years of voltage drops have finally taken their toll on my poor little alpine 4ch. Good thing i have a new battery under the hood. but that does me fuck all worth of good without mids and hits.

....but i didn't get any feedback in the Amp section, its kinda a slow board i guess... So, in the past 2 months, my old sub amp died, bought BRZ1700.1D.....killed that cuz of too weak of an electrical system i think. So i bought an HC1400 for under my hood. I put the replacement BRZ (the one i got back after i sent in the fucked up one) in, and my new battery, had it running for a day and a half, and my alpine MRP-F300 died yesterday. My mids and highs cut out randomly but the bass still plays, so I'm assuming its the amp not the HU. If i turn it down, the sound will come back for a bit, then it goes, and i have to turn it down, it comes back, then it goes after a short bit. Im looking to keep my budget to 160 for a new 4ch, looking at onlinecarstereo and sonicelectronix, I've had good luck dealing with both companies. Im looking at the Hifonics ZRX600.4, but since the ZRX1000.4 is only $10 more, thats a serious contender. But I'm open to other suggestions. Also, does anyone on here have any experience with these amps, anything you could say about them as to why to or not to get one of them? I only need ~50w RMS per channel, but headroom is nice to have, so I'm not opposed to getting the ZRX1000.4 and keeping the gain turned down. Currently my BRZ is being run at 2 ohms, but in the future i plan on going to either a pair of 12s or single 15 at 1 ohm, and putting something new in the doors, hence me leaning towards the more powerful amp....especially since its only an extra $10. But if you guys can throw out some other good ideas for the 160 or less mark, making 50+ w RMS a channel at 4 ohms, I'm all ears. Thanks in advance.

I have the BRZ1700.1D. I have a fused dist block between the battery and amps, so i fused the power cable for my amp there, didnt wanna risk it if there isnt a fuse in the amp. If the internal fuse blows that would blow (assuming there is one) since it voids the warranty by opening the amp

its all about the driver itself....research some yourself before you start posting bad advice man...not to be a dick, but seriously, research some more....my 2 12s in my blazer hit a 141@37Hz with ~1kw going to them...thats loud, and low. It all comes down to the driver itself, the enclosure, and how they fit with the vehicle you're putting it in if you wanna get that technical. (I'm not saying the sound wave produced by a 8 is different from a 10, 12, etc., I'm talking about things more on the actual acoustic properties of the vehicle and what not)

Which model, which VCs...cuz you say 1 ohm, is that dual 2s wired to 1 ohm each, or dual 4s wired to 2 ohms each, then parallel to 1 ohm final load? Personally, i wouldn't do that to them...you can buy a 1200w amp and leave the gain turned down, headroom is always a good thing to have. I personally am not a huge kicker fan...Ive had a set of clarion PXW1251s for about 4-5 years now, rated for 500wRMS a piece. Currently I'm feeding them around 600 a piece. To be honest, if they blow they blow, they are 5 years old, one has a hold in the surround that i sealed with silicone 1 hour before a comp back when i had my blazer (hit a 141 at 37Hz on music that day). If and when they blow, I'm going with a single 15, dual 2, that can handle 1700wRMS daily. Again, i would advise against pushing them 50% past rated power....thats ballsy... Give them a good clean 800w RMS and be happy (1kw RMS MAX!!!! i wouldn't feed these more than 500RMS each if were you, and even then, id stick closer to the 400, if you want to run 1200w, buy new subs), build a large ported box to get the most out of them....when i had my blazer, my box was ~4.2cuft i think, tuned around 32Hz, with ~16 in of port per cube.... Current box is ~3.8 net, 14.5 in/cube, 34Hz, but its in a trunk...it doesn't hit nearly as hard as my blazer did, but it still hits....

Well, i got it in finally, and put the new amp in, put the gains between 1/4 and 1/3, drove around, sounds right. Tomorrow ill burn a disc with a 50 Hz tone at -0dB and actually set my gains properly. (as well as you can without a DD-1 or an o-scope) Went to advanced auto parts, got one of thesehttp://shop.advancea..._A|GRP2005_____ Here it is, with everything back in under the hood, its much smaller in depth than the OEM battery, but a bit taller, and roughly the same width. The cable from the battery to the fuse holder to the back is attached to the binding post rather than the new terminal i bought (i drilled the ring terminal out to 3/8" and just screwed the binding post on right through it), and its hidden under the factory air intake. That fuse holder I'm surprised is still there. I made it out of 1/4" aluminum bar stock we had laying around at home, held in place with some self tapping screws iirc. I need to get the big 3 done....but i went for a 20-30min drive, blasted some jeezy, love and lights, amon tobin (had to cover a few different genres), and everything sounded good, lights never dimmed, and the amp didn't even get warm to the touch. When i got home, i shut my car off right away and started it right away, just to see how it held up....My old battery would have sat there for a few seconds cranking, this fired right up....this battery is a beast. Now i just need to get the big 3 done....then maybe down the line, new box, new subs, take the amp down to 1 ohm instead of the 2 its at now

If i got the HC1400R the terminals would be in the right spots, im on the phone with sonic right now about returning the battery. Im not sure i wanna toss my spare, even though to get to it takes 15-30 min if im by myself. the back seat doesnt fold, so i have to fully remove it and slide the box out into the cabin since its too big to go through the trunk opening.....so now idk if im going to return it, for the 1400R (if i turn it around it would match up perfectly with my terminals), try and make it work as is, or put it in the trunk and ditch the spare...decisions decisions....

if you fed those kickers 1500RMS you would fry them quick. They are ment to take 800RMS as a pair. As long as you design the box right, you should be able to put 1k to them without hurting them, but 1500 is a bit much.

chevy, i bought posts yesterday, the cables wont reach. thats the current problem, and the positive terminal is too loose to clamp on the post....plus sonic is supposed to be sending me replacement posts.

alright, thanks. Ideally id put an AGM battery up front that would match. But its not working. So if i cant extend the terminals, im putting it in the spare well. If i can, i may just replace it in all.

I would prefer to just exted the battery cables/clamps myself too. Im going to look into something to do this. I may call the dealership i bought the car from and find out if mitsu sells anything, if not, back to napa...

do you happen to have any builds in mind off the top of your head that have a battery in the spare tire well? Ive been searching for a good part of the day and i can't find much. I found one, then closed the tab, and can't find it again...

oh, really, just 7 years? holy shit thats some battery life.....the way everything i had read made it sound it sounded like it would make it last a year or 2 tops. Well shit, if thats the case, ill check my OEM batt when i get home, put it back under the hood, order some wire and ring terminals from KNU, and get that battery in the back. I just have to figure out where its going and how to secure it. My box takes the entire trunk (minus some spots towards the back of the trunk since the box had to fit between the wheel wells. But it won't go through the trunk opening, so i have to remove my back seat if i ever need to change a tire. Since I'm only driving ~10 miles a day round trip now I'm thinking ill just put it in the spare wheel well....just trying to think of how i can keep the terminals safe and the battery secure in there.

i know 2>1, but it isnt going to ruin my brand new battery? Im going to be pretty damn unhappy if i piss away +$200 from just putting it in the back and having my old battery up front. Either way, im done for the night, but tomorrows a new day....i wont be back from school till 530PM, but still, its the first thing im going to work on tomorrow....till then ill do research to find out how much damage not using an isolator could cause, and how likely it is to do so.

Haha could do that too ya just need the 1/0 to run it back there. I have a + run of 1/0 already, i just need a neg run....which would be a PITA to squeeze in....FML....im giving up for today, its almost 10, i havent ate dinner yet, or started on homework, dont think ill be sleeping tonight.....

trust me, thought about it, but the battery under the hood is a 3 year old OEM battery, with +50k miles on it, all with a sound system....wont that kill my battery in back without an isolator?

idk that i can replace the cables, under that chunk of red plastic (which vanished the other night...fucking gremlins....) is 6 wires, all fused, and the fuses are in that chunk of shit that bends at the battery....i got it almost reaching perfectly...but now i cant fucking get it to tighten...GOD DAMNIT

fixed it with brute force, problem now, the clamping terminals wont clamp down on the new posts, they are too thin for their liking...WTFUCK?

This is what it looks like with the old battery....the new terminals are farther into the battery than the old ones were, so it wont make the stretch from the edge of the battery to the cable. Im ready to sell my fucking car right now and go back to a 2000 blazer....fuck gas mileage, i want something that is easy to work on when youre fucking 6'6", and easy to work on in general. This fuse block on the battery terminal is fucking retarded. If i could meet the engineer who designed this, id kick him in the face.

OK, now the problem is that i cant make the cable reach the new terminal. Im starting to get pissed the fuck off at my god damn car. I miss my fucking blazer right now.

Just got back from napa, 3.88 for terminals, and i bought a new bulb for my rear license plate light. Last night i got pulled over for that being out and got a warning.

I mean the actual post for the battery, not the part that is clamped on, and yeah, napa said they got em need terminals, not just bolts.

thanks, i called napa, they said it would be between $5-15, i may run over, or i may just wait, the new ones will be here in a few days....

"clarion 746 whateverthefuck" i never seen one of those!! OMG made me laugh pretty hard xD good shit i got $20 that its the EQ746..... I bought one years ago, never installed it. Now i wont cus it would ruin the setup i have. I run 3 way active off the HU. Cant do that with that EQ.