LoudBurp

HAHAHA I recognized the area as soon as the video started. I was at Keesler all last summer. You ever went swimming at the Three Rivers beach?

drill new ones and tap them.......

HAHAHAHA ROTFLMAO!!!! now thats some ingenuity! funny thing is I have used vice grips for manual window handles. O and those wipers with the strings attached, I had to do it to my GF's car when her motors blew. (it was only temporary till it stopped raining and I was able to put new ones in the next day)

looks good, as long as you have metal-metal contact. just make sure you also try to get that black crap out of the threads. The more surface area of contact, the better.

x2

terminals 1&2 and 3&4 are soldered together inside the amp. There are just two of each that way your not cramming your terminals full of wire.

So, my 2004 Dodge 1500 has this massive crack on the passenger side. From me searching around, it seems this is a VERY common problem. I went and picked up some epoxy to see if I could fix it but, I am a little sketchy about pulling the dash out because I don't want to cause any futher damage. I had some of it off, but when I got to the AC vents, it looked like they were attached to the dash by screws that face the firewall. I don't want to just buy a cover and cover it up. I was wondering if A) whether any body has ever taken the dash off of one of these trucks and can offer some help. or B ) whether anybody knew where I could puchase an aftermarket dash that won't end up cracking on me again. Any help is greatly appreciated.

HAHAHAHA that would be a Kicker L5 check it out... http://www.crutchfield.com/S-C28ZcNWngXM/p_2062S10L52/Kicker-Solo-Baric-L5-S10L52.html The cones are different between the L3,L5, and L7's and they never made a 10" Solo-X from my knowledge.

For circle ports it Radius^2 x 3.14 x Lenth and for slot ports its LxWxH. If you still don't want to do the math PM me. Edit: for the flared Aero ports there is an actual formula to figure out what the flare volume is but, I kinda forgot it because High School was a long while ago. (you can find the average of the flare and use that, its close enough)

First, Ray thanks for taking a look. Your input means a lot seeing as, well, your the pro. Also, I was thinking that the port forward was kind of a bad idea in the beginning due to the fact that the 2 waves would never really interact w/ one another. Thanks for the confirmation. I won't even bother putting up the SketchUp of the new design, seeing as it's going to look like another ordinary box.

Just quick question... whats your TL @ 32Hz?

O and I guess I should add in that I chose to go with American Bass XFL-12's because I can get them for a better price than the AQ SC2.5-12's

Ya I was thinking the same thing but, there lies my delema. Should I shorten the port and raise tuning, pull the port out 3 inches and not be able to close the armrest, or try to make it go through where the factory sub is.......... AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH trying to make it look good while keeping it loud SUCKS!!!!!!!!!

How bout I save you some time.... The subsonic is a high pass filter, which blocks the sub/s from not going into those frequencys because it might over excurd it's self and damage the woofer(if your running a sealed box it is less likely to happen due to the air cushion of the box) and the low pass cuts off the frequencys above what you set it at(you don't want a 1KHz note to hit your coils). So generally set your LP @ around 80Hz and SS around 20Hz. (Steve Meade has a video on this) One thing you have to relize is that the filters work in octaves so although you set it at 80Hz, you will still play 90 Hz notes. The better the number in Db's of the filter the more sharply the cut off of frequencies is.

read the manual

He is probably talking either A ) thier older amps or B ) the VFL 200.1... OP, which one? Anyway here is the link to thier site, but for some reason it seems like thier site doesn't work right some times. http://americanbassusa.com/front/showcontent.aspx?fileid=11 Although Bob does have a new series of amps in prototype phase right now called the Phantom Series. I CAN'T WAIT TO GET AHOLD OF ONE!!!!!

American Bass VFL-18?

American Bass is great quality stuff. I am from Cleveland, so I used to see it all the time. Bob(the owner) has been building audio equipment for many years, and really knows his stuff. They make great components and door speakers. Also, thier amps are awesome too. I would recommend all of thier product lines.

So I measured it out through the rear deck and I could make the port 9x9 which is 7.5x7.5 and it would have to be like 22-26 inchs long which means I would have to put a bend in it. So, I am stuck. Should I do it like I have in the pics I posted on my last post(where the port is 2.25" away from the baffle)? Or should I run it through the rear deck by take out the factory sub? Any opinions? (I work all weekend, so I won't be able to post a SketchUp of what the rear deck port would look like till Monday....sorry)

So I was a retard when I posted the last box pics. I forgot that I resized the port for tuning. I resized it to the max allowable size and the port is now 22 inchs long. The only problem I can foresee is that the back of the port is 2.25" away from the back of the baffle. Do you think this could be a problem? Here is the Torres and SketchUps. Let me know what you think. The SketchUp file is here... http://www.mediafire.com/?m08njqm13j143b5

I was thinking of aeros, but I don't know how long they would have to be. I think the 6" would have to be sticking in the box like the port I have drawn up, and I have no idea how I would make that work. Although 2 4" might work. Let me play around with it and I will see what I can do. Thanks for the feedback!

Thats the problem, for the port to come in between the seats like that, that is the biggest port I can run. The hole is almost exactly 8x7 which leaves the inside dimensions at 6.5x5.5. That roughly 8"^2 per cube. I normally run around 12 per, but this one is giving me issues. So, do you think I should shrink the box a little?

Bump for input by others

Mechman, SingerAlternators.com(highly recommend), DC... the list goes on. Surf around a bit and read the forums about different companies.

I am doing a build for one of my buddys. We are going to deciding between 2 Sundown SA-12's or 2 AQ SD2.5-12's. They will be powered by a Sundown 1500D @ 1 Ohm. This is the box I came up with and was wondering if you guys had any advise on improving it. The top baffle will actually be cut to fit the sides of the trunk but I figured I would put it on there. The port is 15"s long and the reason why it sticks out like that is to meet up with a hole that is behind the backseat armrest, as you will see in the photos below. Also, when I do build it the port will be rounded off on the sides and where it goes between the seats will have a flare and be molded into the back seat. Here are the pictures of the car... If you want to make improvements, I uploaded the Sketchup file here... http://www.mediafire.com/?b0q8qnexp6mshh3 Thanks for looking and look forward to hearing from you all