kickass audio

then you can drive your ass up here and clean up the glass shards that will be all over the truck.

Ok, the one i have looks super thin when i looked at it from the side. Would you think if i put glass epoxy on it and put it back up there that i would have any problems? Also what if i put my mirror up there in the event that my outside mirrors either cannot defrost fast enough or fog up too heavily? you will have problems. I can almost say 100% positive. if theres a chunk missing, the structural integrity of the glass is now confiscated. won't be long till you hit a bump in the road or flex it too hard and it just spiders out. wonderful. i hope my insurance doesnt go up for getting another windshield when its barely been a month since it happened. this is bullshit, maybe if they actually used a good quality window it wouldnt have any problems like the pile of shit that was installed on my truck.

Ok, the one i have looks super thin when i looked at it from the side. Would you think if i put glass epoxy on it and put it back up there that i would have any problems? Also what if i put my mirror up there in the event that my outside mirrors either cannot defrost fast enough or fog up too heavily?

does anyone know the thickness a windshield is? Today my new windshield i had installed for less than a month the mirror fell off for the 6th time (yes my bass was up pretty damn high so im not surprised it did it again) but this time instead of taking a tiny piece of glass off like a pebble it took a huge chunk about the size of your thumb nail and i would say the thickest part of the ship is 1/8 of a inch give or take 1/16. When i looked at the side of my windshield through the trim piece it didnt look like it was any bit thicker than the glass on my doors. This glass isnt worth a shit as it flex's like its nothing and i have had tiny pebbles come up from the road and hit the window and it has put larger chunks out of the glass than the stock one did. I thought about taking the busted piece of glass i have that is still adhered to the button for my rearview mirror and re-attaching it to the window with some glass epoxy i can buy at the nearest value and leaving the mirror off for good even though my dad insists its illegal even though my outside mirrors work without any problems. let me know how thick it is supposed to be. i tried to google it and it said its 1/4 thick but that seems way too damn thick for any window ive looked at and when i looked at it from the side it didnt look that thick.

Since i will be parking my truck in a somewhat shitty area for college (the lot is monitored by police but once in a blue moon shit does go down) and i wanted to get a viper vsm250 gps unit for my truck. I recently was about to get a VSM200 from another member on here but it didnt have the gps feature and i figured that most thieves especially with a system as big and heavy as mine will not waste their time trying to take it all out with it being bolted in to the frame and would try to hot wire it and start it up and run. I currently have a viper 5901 alarm with glass and interior motion sensors and all the other crap hooked up and working perfectly but since the remote only works up to 1 mile from my truck i need something that can work further than that and help me track down my truck if i ever have to. If someone has a VSM250 (again it is the viper smart start unit with gps) please reply or pm me and let me know what you are asking for it. Depending on how hard it is to install i was going to do it myself but i can take it to a shop if i dont feel too good on it.

no problem bro. id just try it tho to make sure before you mess anything up on the truck. even just a small battery will do the test for you too.

yup thats how it is supposed to be from what im reading with it online. id play with it though before you put it on your car. like if you have a battery charger put the red wire to the positive on the battery charger, the black/white one to a remote switch, and ground the outside case (the threaded part) of the spark plug to your battery chargers negative output. see if it ignites the spark plug at all.

i believe you can just put that to a switch (make sure the switch is shielded so you dont shock yourself) so that it can get +12v of current to enable it to amplify the voltage and send the high voltage spark to the spark plug. Pretty much make it so that when the switch is off the black/white wire is not supplied any voltage, if the switch is on then the wire has 12v of power applied to it and will make the spark plug ignite. Dont forget to ground your spark plug you place on the exhaust though. You may want to consider possibly getting a ring terminal that is big enough for you to wrap around the spark plug itself when you bolt it down on the exhaust for a really good ground spot but its not needed though.

oh in that case no. Sorry bro i didnt know you were doing that. Yea you just need the pink and black/white wire. the pink will always have +12v of current the whole time while the black/white one will be the wire that controls how fast the spark will fire at. let me know how the experiment works, im curious what you are doing with it. edit: this page of the article i attached earlier may be very useful for you. http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm_misfire_diagnostic/ignition_misfire_tests_5.php it tells you how to test and prove whats happening to the whole thing and how it should work.

this is the post i meant to check. I believe if you dont hook the white wire up you will not have a working speedometer.<br style="font-family: tahoma, arial, verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(211, 211, 211); "><br style="font-family: tahoma, arial, verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(211, 211, 211); ">http://easyautodiagn...ire_tests_2.php<br style="font-family: tahoma, arial, verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(211, 211, 211); "><br style="font-family: tahoma, arial, verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(211, 211, 211); "> Circuit labeled A -Pink Wire:Power (12 V) Circuit.[*]Circuit labeled B -White Wire: Tach Signal for the Tachometer in the Instrument Cluster if equipped.[*]Circuit labeled C -White with Black stripe Wire: Switching Signal Circuit. This signal is provided courtesy of the Ignition Control Module (ICM).

re-read it. look at my second post. That post is in reference to the 3 wires you have going on your ignition coil.

correction i posted the wrong thing. THIS is what you have: http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm_misfire_diagnostic/ignition_misfire_tests_2.php Circuit labeled A -Pink Wire:Power (12 V) Circuit.[*]Circuit labeled B -White Wire: Tach Signal for the Tachometer in the Instrument Cluster if equipped.[*]Circuit labeled C -White with Black stripe Wire: Switching Signal Circuit. This signal is provided courtesy of the Ignition Control Module (ICM). sorry bro

black/white: ground white: ignition control pink (really supposed to be red): 12v+ power its standard on all gm vehicles from 1995-2005 with a few wires that were added later on but same wire color code. http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm_icm_test/gm_icm_diagnostic_1.php

PM me, i will take one of the smart start units off your hand since it works on droid and all that. Ive wanted one for quite some time now. Thank you everyone for answering my questions, sorry for the post dumping (even though im buying it) edit: i am at work and class so i cant pay you until i get home tonight after 11 est so please hold it and PM me your paypal address and ill pay you for it.

Cool, so basically the smart connect gets connected to its own network similar to a cell phone right? Also how hard are these to install? Does it come with the guide to tell you what wire goes into where for the 5901's brain? Sorry for the stupid questions i just wanted to see if this will work as the college im going to in the spring is huge and i wanted to keep tabs on my truck when its there since my stock remote doesnt work well in concrete buildings like my cell phone does.

will the smart start work on an android phone? Also will these work everywhere regardless of how far i am from the truck as long as my phone has signal? I still cant get that question answered about it. Please let me know!!

Also just to add on what i said before it still worked perfectly fine but with my car having 8 and 4 ohm speakers it would play the 4 ohm speakers louder (path of least resistance) than the 8 ohm ones. so for a few days until it stopped raining and i could rip the doors off and replace those speakers i just set my fader toward the front some to even out the volume a little bit. Other than that i never had any problems with it one bit and it sounded so much better than the stock ones.

It would be fine as long as you do all of the stock speakers. For my old car i had i didnt put all the speakers in at once so i did my trunk's 6x9's with the kicker ks6930's and they were louder than the front door speakers which were 8 ohms and stock. Once i replaced the front speakers it was all even and didnt have a problem with my radio. And i tried it on the stock and aftermarket radios i had and it didnt have any issues, never got hot, blew a fuse or anything like that. If you are really concerned about it maybe think about wiring the left and right sides in series to get 8 ohms. You would lose the stock fade but that would get it back up to the 8 ohms per side and it wouldnt harm the radio at all.

yea ill pass on putting my name, address, and all that crap on a forum topic so that everyone on here can see it. So someone can't say "It's on it's way to Purplehaze in Ohio" as an example? I didn't mean a detailed address, just a forum name and state would be enough I thought you meant the full address with the street and all that. Im fine putting my city and state as well as my username for here (although you can clearly see it when i post lol) and if needed my first name and last initial. I was thinking like full name, full address, and all that stuff to post to the whole smd community.

yea ill pass on putting my name, address, and all that crap on a forum topic so that everyone on here can see it.

I would love to be a part of this although my system isnt that intense compared to other guys on here, it is still pretty good being the only system i ever built from the ground up by myself. May youtube is http://www.youtube.com/user/towmantowman?feature=mhee plus im from your hometown of buffalo, ny so why not. lol

Take the card out, if you have some isopropol (sp?) alcohol put a small amount of that on a q-tip or a soft rag and clean the contacts on the video card where it seats in the board. Also try to blow out any dust if you have any compressed air.

it happens Kranny, i have seen plenty of computers i've worked on before without onboard gpu's. It helps save space and cost too.

If its a video output it would have a display that looks like a squared off cylinder that is inside a box. The pink one is for a printer, thats a parallel port (super slow lol) so it sounds like you have no onboard graphics. Id inspect the power supply and if you have a spare try to swap it to test it. It sounds like a bad PSU to me and if it still doesnt post after that i think your mobo is completely dead. Try to take the motherboard out, I had a dell a long time ago where if i screwed the motherboard down too hard it would ground out and prevent the whole computer from posting. Id see if you can get your hands on another pci express x16 graphics card to try out. If you can at least get to the bios and see it post then your board is good.

The only reason i knew is because i use that port all the time in my CCNA class to program routers and switches and my o-scope has the same db-9 connection on it. I was around for the good old ms-dos days and im only 20. lol