kickass audio

Ok, to optimize every setting you need to go to control panel and there should be an option for nvidia control panel. Once you are in there you would want to look at the top left underneath "3d settings" and click on "manage 3d settings". For my new laptop im using right now (it has an nvidia geforce m555 with 3gb dedicated video memory) i set my settings accordingly. Ambient Occlusion: performance Anisotropic filtering: off Antialiasing gamma correction: on Antialiasing mode: override any application setting antialiasing setting: 2x antialiasing transparency: multisample cuda gpus: all (you may need to check the box if you have multiple graphics cards installed) maximum pre-rendered frames: 0 multi-display/mised gpu acceleration: single display performance mode (idk how many monitors you are using on your computer, since mine is a laptop i just set it to single display as im mainly using just the internal screen) power management mode: prefer maximum performance texture filtering anisotropic sample optimization: on texture filtering negative lod bias: allow texture filtering quality: high performance texture filtering trilinear optimization: on threaded optimization: on Triple buffering: on vertical sync: force on I set it all like that and my computer gets a 6.9 aero score for the graphics and gaming graphics. I have a 7.5 for the processor, 7.6 for the ram, and sadly a 5.9 for the hard drive until i go from dual 500gb drives to a dual 2tb and 256gb ssd drive setup.

Have you tried to go into the nvidia control panel and adjust your settings for optimum performance for EVERY setting? Also try to go into the control panel> power options> look for the plan that has the radio button selected and then click "edit plan settings" then click "advanced power settings" and scroll down to processor power management. Make sure the "system cooling policy" is set to active and that the "maximum processor state" is set to 100%. The maximum processor state will actually change the clock rates of your main processor so if its less than 100%, you arent operating at the full clock rate of your processor.

I am looking to sell my massive audio db8000 amp i have. Its 4kw at .5 ohms, 2kw at 1 ohm, and 1.2k at 2 ohms. That amp is a beast but i fried the other one i had since it was mounted on my box and vibrated so bad it cracked a few fets.

The warranty i believe is 1 year. Futurevision is a great company so im not trashing them at all. In fact im very pleased with the help i have received from them with everything i did to my lights. I had a capacitor mod to help boost the voltage of my drl's but that didnt change a single thing so i disconnected it. My relay is hooked to the stock wire to trigger it to turn on but its still getting raw power from the battery. I only had one other problem with my futurevision hid's where the one bulb had a hard time firing no matter what the temperature was or what ballast i used. It turned out that the wire had a break in it but Bruno at futurevision hooked me up and sent me a replacement bulb for no charge. They stand behind their product and have excellent customer service for it as well.

Just incase anyone has this problem i thought i would post the fix to this. I went out and swapped hid's, ballasts, and relays to find out one ballast is bad. So this problem is caused by a bad ballast, not wiring or the bulb.

Its really weird. I do have a tiny capacitor wired to my drl's but that would be bypassed when i turn the lights on my dash. I will try to disconnect the cap tomorrow and re-check all the wiring. I am not going to swap bulbs though because the light on my passenger side the clip that holds it on is broken in half so the light is barely held in with the busted bracket and im not cracking it in the cold. edit: it is not a cheap ballast. Its all futurevision hid.

Heres my little dilemma that i still need to troubleshoot but needed to see if anyone else incurred this with their hid's. What i have going on is that when my truck is running and i attempt to start my low beam hid's the driver side will not ignite but the passenger side does. They are both seperated for this exact same problem so both sides have a seperate relay, ballast, and obviously bulb. I can hear both relays clicking so that shows it is getting the signal to turn on the relay and provide power to the ballasts to ignite both lights. I had this problem yesterday when i was going to class but i was able to resolve it by turning my low beams on and off several times to fix it. Today that didnt work. It was 40 degrees outside yesterday but 20 today. I did the same thing as yesterday where i remote started my truck (it keeps my hid's off the entire time until i unlock the truck and it flashes them on and off fast then stops, i tried to find a way to disable this or cut the wire with no help), but when i get in my truck and take it off remote start mode and put it into normal mode the driver side light wont ignite. I tried the same thing i did yesterday with turning the lights on and off several times with no success. I tried for 2 minutes with no success so i said fuck it and put on my fog lights and drove home with one low beam and 2 working fogs. When i got home i tried again with the same failure. So i turned my truck off and turned the lights on and like magic they both worked without a glitch. I turned them on and off for over 2 minutes. So i then tried to turn my truck on and thats when i noticed that the driver side light would get slightly dimmer after the vehicle was on and running but would get brighter once i shut it off. So i decided to turn on the truck and get both lights working, turn the lights off, and try to turn them back on and the driver side failed to light. So pretty much to sum up this huge ass post when my truck is running and i attempt to turn on my hid's the one light will fail to fire. I didnt get into details of troubleshooting this yet as it was midnight and im not working this late at night in the dark to break something off. Do you think this could be the ballast or bulb? Im really thinking its the ballast that has a problem since the light will work without any problems if the truck is not running or its warmer out. Let me know what you guys think!!

Maybe its port noise? My smd's enclosure makes a TON of port noise when it gets really low but i am dealing with it. I would double check your port if it has one and make sure no parts of the box have cracks or leaks where the air can escape. It sounds like port noise or a leaky enclosure to me. edit: since it sounded ok in the vid of it being in free air i would try to turn the sub on its side in free-air to see if it does it to you then since thats how the sub is orientated in your enclosure.

Yea this glass didnt have the button glued on before they installed it. In fact i know it wasnt on because the button for the mirror had a cut in it when i took the mirror off before to clean the whole window easier and it had a dent in it where the screw held into the button and a little stamp on it. The first time it fell off the adhesive that was on there was almost like taking a piece of bubble gum and sticking that behind the button and holding it on. That one fell off when i adjusted the mirror. The other times it fell off when i had my music up. The part that surprised me about the new windshield is that the black area that supposedly blocks uv radiation from weakening the adhesive was between the glass panels. The oem window had it on the inside so if you were to feel the black strip for the mirror and those stupid dots across the top of the window it would be almost like a matte finish and to me would hold the glue on better.

They definitely did not set it up too high as if you look in between the defroster vents that are on the outside of the window between the wiper arms there are two stop blocks below them that the stock window rested right up against the bottom lip. The new windshield is far from that spot by about 3/4 of a inch. Im going to bite the bullet and see how much my dad bitches me out for it but maybe we can get something better than the shitty window they put on there. If i get the window replaced (i really think i am going to) what would you recommend i use to put that damn rearview mirror on and keep it there? I tried the same adhesive they use to hold the windshield down on the track with, the extreme strength windshield adhesive from advance automotive, and recently krazy glue. The glue sticks to the back of the button with no problem but all the other times it never stuck to the damn windshield except for this time where about 1/2 of the mirrors button stuck to the window and cracked a piece of the glass off and the other half did not stick to the window.

Ok, the one i have looks super thin when i looked at it from the side. Would you think if i put glass epoxy on it and put it back up there that i would have any problems? Also what if i put my mirror up there in the event that my outside mirrors either cannot defrost fast enough or fog up too heavily? you will have problems. I can almost say 100% positive. if theres a chunk missing, the structural integrity of the glass is now confiscated. won't be long till you hit a bump in the road or flex it too hard and it just spiders out. wonderful. i hope my insurance doesnt go up for getting another windshield when its barely been a month since it happened. this is bullshit, maybe if they actually used a good quality window it wouldnt have any problems like the pile of shit that was installed on my truck. some glass installers let you request a glass company (Pilkington, APTECH, etc.)...but it just can't be from a dealership unless your truck is within 2 years old....or unless you want to pay the difference that insurance won't cover. let the insurance company know what happened and they might cover it....also, laminated glass won't shatter, just spider and crack. Something has to be strong enough to get through both layers of glass + the laminate for any actual pieces to break off. i really hope they do cover it but my dad is going to have my ass for this happening. "you listen to your music too loud, whats the point in listening it that loud" smh. I loved the stock windshield that came with my truck. My truck is an 04 and the windshield that was on prior to the replacement had wiper blade scratch marks and tons of little nicks in the glass but it was fine. Last month a pretty good size pebble hit my windshield and put a tiny crack on the glass that is about the size of a rca connector so me and my dad called it into the insurance company. the part that sucks is that my dad called the insurance company before i could hit the windshield with a rubber mallet to try and make the micro crack bigger than a dollar bill so that they would have to replace the glass. Well we hit the spot on the glass really hard, in fact we hit it so hard that it made the inside mirror fall down and you could see the glass bending in and out but it never cracked out any further. The windshield that is on there now sounds a lot thinner than the oem one that my truck came with and it also doesnt go down as far on my windshield as the stock one did. I am by no means happy with this shitty glass repair job.

you're such a wuss. i wear shorts and short sleeve shirts all year round. Even when its snowing outside i still wear them when i go out for a little bit.

then you can drive your ass up here and clean up the glass shards that will be all over the truck.

Ok, the one i have looks super thin when i looked at it from the side. Would you think if i put glass epoxy on it and put it back up there that i would have any problems? Also what if i put my mirror up there in the event that my outside mirrors either cannot defrost fast enough or fog up too heavily? you will have problems. I can almost say 100% positive. if theres a chunk missing, the structural integrity of the glass is now confiscated. won't be long till you hit a bump in the road or flex it too hard and it just spiders out. wonderful. i hope my insurance doesnt go up for getting another windshield when its barely been a month since it happened. this is bullshit, maybe if they actually used a good quality window it wouldnt have any problems like the pile of shit that was installed on my truck.

Ok, the one i have looks super thin when i looked at it from the side. Would you think if i put glass epoxy on it and put it back up there that i would have any problems? Also what if i put my mirror up there in the event that my outside mirrors either cannot defrost fast enough or fog up too heavily?

does anyone know the thickness a windshield is? Today my new windshield i had installed for less than a month the mirror fell off for the 6th time (yes my bass was up pretty damn high so im not surprised it did it again) but this time instead of taking a tiny piece of glass off like a pebble it took a huge chunk about the size of your thumb nail and i would say the thickest part of the ship is 1/8 of a inch give or take 1/16. When i looked at the side of my windshield through the trim piece it didnt look like it was any bit thicker than the glass on my doors. This glass isnt worth a shit as it flex's like its nothing and i have had tiny pebbles come up from the road and hit the window and it has put larger chunks out of the glass than the stock one did. I thought about taking the busted piece of glass i have that is still adhered to the button for my rearview mirror and re-attaching it to the window with some glass epoxy i can buy at the nearest value and leaving the mirror off for good even though my dad insists its illegal even though my outside mirrors work without any problems. let me know how thick it is supposed to be. i tried to google it and it said its 1/4 thick but that seems way too damn thick for any window ive looked at and when i looked at it from the side it didnt look that thick.

Since i will be parking my truck in a somewhat shitty area for college (the lot is monitored by police but once in a blue moon shit does go down) and i wanted to get a viper vsm250 gps unit for my truck. I recently was about to get a VSM200 from another member on here but it didnt have the gps feature and i figured that most thieves especially with a system as big and heavy as mine will not waste their time trying to take it all out with it being bolted in to the frame and would try to hot wire it and start it up and run. I currently have a viper 5901 alarm with glass and interior motion sensors and all the other crap hooked up and working perfectly but since the remote only works up to 1 mile from my truck i need something that can work further than that and help me track down my truck if i ever have to. If someone has a VSM250 (again it is the viper smart start unit with gps) please reply or pm me and let me know what you are asking for it. Depending on how hard it is to install i was going to do it myself but i can take it to a shop if i dont feel too good on it.

no problem bro. id just try it tho to make sure before you mess anything up on the truck. even just a small battery will do the test for you too.

yup thats how it is supposed to be from what im reading with it online. id play with it though before you put it on your car. like if you have a battery charger put the red wire to the positive on the battery charger, the black/white one to a remote switch, and ground the outside case (the threaded part) of the spark plug to your battery chargers negative output. see if it ignites the spark plug at all.

i believe you can just put that to a switch (make sure the switch is shielded so you dont shock yourself) so that it can get +12v of current to enable it to amplify the voltage and send the high voltage spark to the spark plug. Pretty much make it so that when the switch is off the black/white wire is not supplied any voltage, if the switch is on then the wire has 12v of power applied to it and will make the spark plug ignite. Dont forget to ground your spark plug you place on the exhaust though. You may want to consider possibly getting a ring terminal that is big enough for you to wrap around the spark plug itself when you bolt it down on the exhaust for a really good ground spot but its not needed though.

oh in that case no. Sorry bro i didnt know you were doing that. Yea you just need the pink and black/white wire. the pink will always have +12v of current the whole time while the black/white one will be the wire that controls how fast the spark will fire at. let me know how the experiment works, im curious what you are doing with it. edit: this page of the article i attached earlier may be very useful for you. http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm_misfire_diagnostic/ignition_misfire_tests_5.php it tells you how to test and prove whats happening to the whole thing and how it should work.

this is the post i meant to check. I believe if you dont hook the white wire up you will not have a working speedometer.<br style="font-family: tahoma, arial, verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(211, 211, 211); "><br style="font-family: tahoma, arial, verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(211, 211, 211); ">http://easyautodiagn...ire_tests_2.php<br style="font-family: tahoma, arial, verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(211, 211, 211); "><br style="font-family: tahoma, arial, verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(211, 211, 211); "> Circuit labeled A -Pink Wire:Power (12 V) Circuit.[*]Circuit labeled B -White Wire: Tach Signal for the Tachometer in the Instrument Cluster if equipped.[*]Circuit labeled C -White with Black stripe Wire: Switching Signal Circuit. This signal is provided courtesy of the Ignition Control Module (ICM).

re-read it. look at my second post. That post is in reference to the 3 wires you have going on your ignition coil.

correction i posted the wrong thing. THIS is what you have: http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm_misfire_diagnostic/ignition_misfire_tests_2.php Circuit labeled A -Pink Wire:Power (12 V) Circuit.[*]Circuit labeled B -White Wire: Tach Signal for the Tachometer in the Instrument Cluster if equipped.[*]Circuit labeled C -White with Black stripe Wire: Switching Signal Circuit. This signal is provided courtesy of the Ignition Control Module (ICM). sorry bro

black/white: ground white: ignition control pink (really supposed to be red): 12v+ power its standard on all gm vehicles from 1995-2005 with a few wires that were added later on but same wire color code. http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm_icm_test/gm_icm_diagnostic_1.php