kickass audio

actually sir i never have. lol.

Heres how i believe it is working. When you open your trunk that extra pressure that you have in your car is escaping. Think of it like your subwoofer box, the bigger the port is, the lower your tuning. Thats pretty much the same thing thats going on here. Now for how to get around it, maybe drop the tuning of your box down a little? Or try to do a sub up/port back or vice versa box. Im not a big box designer so dont take what im saying as the truth, just trying to chime in and maybe help you out. If Ray or RAM_Designs sees this, see what they say about this.

And to think i was the only guy with the luck to find the real winners. All my ex's were total whores (yea guys im not really one for the sex, im 20 and still rocking that v-card till someone who doesnt have a pussy that smells like yesterdays catch), bitches, free loaders, or just total losers. My recent ex just pulled that type of shit with me and then she said i would get sued and whatnot because of the "emotional distress" i caused her and her two kids (wont say the story behind that) and later changed her mind. Gotta love psycho women sometimes man.

Ok, i thought you were trying to pull some dr subwoofer shit on my b4 bro. sorry. I didnt know anything about how they are for all the specs. I just know how the different motor works and whatnot.

WTF are you talking about? I was just saying the experience i had with it. Dont go and get all butt hurt. I already knew they are the same parts pretty much. If you want to be a die hard kicker nut hugger then go for it. I was just clearly saying what i had when i ran their stuff.

It was only at 750w for like a month. I then got it to 1400w rms and then 3000+w rms.

Consider yourself lucky. My solox got hot off just 750w rms (yes it was unclipped, i scoped it out). My SMD is taking a ton of abuse and power and it is just screaming for more. I can only get my SMD as hot as if you were to take your hand and grab your arm. My smd does not get hot, smell, bottom out, or sound like total garbage like my solox did. My experience with the solox was that it was not musical one bit for me. It would get coil rub so damn easily no matter what i did to try and correct it, it out of nowhere would drop bottom (even on notes higher than my box's tuning), it had a small range of freq's it liked to play loud the rest just sounded like shit. Other kicker subs i have owned were better than the solox. Hell even my cvr sounded better than my solox.

Yea 135 db being loud. I wonder what my 146.6 is classified as. lmao. I guess that goes along with how everybodys car system can get up to 160db with ease. And the solox can take on thermal dissipation... bullshit!!

I was never a fan of my solox when i had one. I honestly thought my cvx was louder than my solox. Plus my solox heated up so damn bad and so fast that it burned out in 5 months. My cvx i gave 3 times their rms power EACH ad they lasted for a year and a half. I was waiting for this to happen since the solox's model changed their rms and peak numbers so much. The solox18 was originally rated for 5000w rms/10000 peak but they changed that to 3500w rms i believe.

^^^ Right on. I have a single smd 18 in my truck and i scored a 146.6db at 49Hz since apparently thats the peak freq my truck resonates and im very happy with it. I thought for sure id have a 150+ on the dash but honestly for the damage im doing to my truck for a single sub setup i cant complain one bit. Plus that smd is taking a lot of power like a champ. The dust cap gets a slight warmth (like body temperature) but doesnt smell or bottom out. Get the equipment you want and can rely on and go from there. Its not always about the numbers unless you are an asshole competitor who has a little 2 year temper tantrum if they cant beat the person they are up next. Thats why i wont compete plus i dont know what class id even be in since nobody in my area has an 18 lol.

They do sell modules you have to wire up to get the steering wheel controls to work. It is a pain sometimes but it can work. Most radios these days come with ipod docks in the box too. Looking at pics of your dash in your car online i think the stock radio looks good compared to an aftermarket one. It is still your call since you drive the car but the stock one would be a lot easier to get working right and have it look clean too.

Ok thats great you tested that, so it proves your radio can actually send a good signal to the amps/processor. I would just go for a processor and call it a day. For your cars dash i personally dont think a custom radio would look right in there unless you custom fabricated something for it. The contours of the dash would be off when an aftermarket radio in. All you need to do with the 3sixty is either find a spot behind or underneath the dash to secure the 3sixty. Then run the speaker and power wires to the unit and then your rca outputs. Its that easy. Or if your dash is cramped for room, you can run it underneath your seat (make sure you cover the wires so they cant get pinched or cut when you move the seats position), extend the speaker cables from behind the radio to underneath the seat, run the power to the processor and the rca wires to it as well. Hooking it up is so easy. Setting it up is a pain since theres so many controls you need to setup and figure out how you want to control your speakers with it. If you get it and you get stuck you can always give me a holler, im always on here and since i have the 3sixty i can tell you how everything works on it if you get stuck

One thing you could try and it would be a lot cheaper for you is to build a better box. Maybe instead of sealed perhaps a ported would be good for the sub. You can take a total garbage subwoofer and make it sound great in the perfect box. If anything i would PM Ram Designs on here and see what he says about making an enclosure for your current sub. If you would rather get a different woofer, maybe something like the kicker cvr or cvx would be good for you. I have owned both of those subs and they are pretty good subs. I wouldnt buy from a dealer or anything since they jack the prices up on them so damn much so i would look online for it. The kicker cvr is rated for 400w rms and the cvx is 750w rms. The cvr likes sealed boxes from what ive experienced but it isnt that much more power handling than your current sub. The cvx i had hated a sealed box, it loved the ported box it was in but they like to have room, around 2.5-3.5 cubic feet net is what i think they sound good in from me screwing with the cvx. It would prob cost at most $50 to get some birch plywood or mdf at home depot/lowes and build a better box than to spend like $150-200 for a new sub only to have it choke since the box isnt working the sub at its peak performance. For the plywood you just need a truck large enough to carry one sheet of it home, a table saw (if you want to cut it the easy way, or a circular saw with a guide to cut straight), wood screws, wood glue, patience, and time.

Yes, the dd-1 is great. I dont own one since i have a scope (and b4 anyone says it, i know the dd-1 is better than a scope but my scope is doing a good job for me) but if Steve, Tony, and Juan are behind it, im sure its a perfect tool to use. For you, i think it would be better to use the money for a sound processor. Theres no point to get a $400 radio that doesnt have really any eq control at all than to get a 3sixty which has all the control you will ever need. One thing though, you did do like i said in the one post and test the distortion on the speaker outputs of the stock radio correct? I just wanted to check on that because if you didnt i would highly advise you do to see if the radio puts out a crappy signal at all on just the speaker output wires. Dont measure it through the converters, just the speaker wires one pair at a time. It wouldnt be any benefit to you or your system to get a 3sixty only to find out your radio clips to all hell because as great as the 3sixty is, it can make things worse if you dont use it correctly.

Not trying to start a war but there are better subs out there than kickers. Kickers are good but if you want one to last look elsewhere. And tbh, with kicker, you pay up the ass for something you could have gone somewhere else and paid a little more and gotten something 1000 times better. I would hit up DC Audio or Ascendant Audio. I have an AA SMD and the sub is expensive but i got a damn good deal on it and i love how it sounds and it can take power. What kind of power are you planning to throw at the sub? What kind of vehicle is it going in? What is your final budget for the whole system? 200 bucks can be used in a second for a system, trust me. I spent a shit ton on my system. lol

Do you happen to have anything like a harbor freight near you? Thats where i got my first DMM from. It was $9.99 and it got the job done but it wasnt the best. If you want a good entry level one, i went to Home Depot and got one for $29.99 and i am still using it to this day. If it wasnt for my one i got from harbor freight being shorted out (thanks to my dad) i would give it to you as long as you paid shipping but it cant find any dc voltage levels. Everything else works on it but dc voltage so its pointless for car audio without dc to check all your voltage levels in the vehicle.

Thats good, if anything just try some other speakers around the same impedance as the ones he has. Also make sure you arent mixing impedances, i found out my radio didnt like that when i used the radio to power my door speakers. I had my front doors at 4 ohms and my rear door was at 8 ohms and it sounded like total garbage like that until i continued replacing my rear door speakers to match the 4 ohm load.

Lol, maybe just a thought, i believe they have digital thermometers you can get for your vents. You just need to drill a hole in the vent or put the thermistor in the vent and route the cable through it and then get something to read it back to you. Honestly if thats the only thing you need to see what temp your car is at no offence but just ditch it. I dont care what temp my truck is at just as long as its comfy for me. The only time i check the temp of my truck is with my remote start/alarm system to see how cold it is and about how long i will let it warm up before i go out and try to brush off the snow and ice on it in the winter. Other than that idc what it is because with my truck, the heat will melt your ass to the seat and the a/c will freeze you into an icicle. lol.

Sorry i couldnt get it working for you. Maybe if you wanted to (it would prob be a waste of your time and money) you can maybe try a different brand converter?

Yea ur screwed to say the least. Ditch those shitty ass high-low converters and get something that will actually work, lol.

Yea who knows. Maybe with the voltage down so far it wont work? I think that your amp may not accept it if its at a low level so maybe turning the gain up on the amp will get it to work? Idk for sure but hey it wont hurt anything to try. If it doesnt work then i am completely out of ideas with this and would just get a sound processor and call it a day because i have been hammering my head in a wall trying to figure this out. lol

Yes it did set me off guard so sorry. Well i guess that a sound processor is your only way out of this. What happens if you leave the gains on the converters all the way down low and set the amps gain? Does it work at all?

It sounds like you did it totally wrong. To set the high-low converter, you need to hook the dd-1 up to the amp. The amps gains must be TOTALLY OFF or turned all the way down. Then you turn the headunit all the way up to 33 and then look at the dd-1. It shouldnt show any signal or anything. If it doesnt then slowly turn the gain knob off one of the high-low converters with the rca wires going into the amp you have the dd-1 hooked up to. Once you turn it far enough the dd-1 should show the signal and then show it clipping out. When it does back it off and go to the other side of the rca connector and do the same thing. If you need i can make some directions for this part to make it clearer for you.

Idc what you meant for the drink. Id take the alcohol anyways, i havent had a beer in months. lol. I would just get a 3sixty anyway whether you get another vehicle or not. Remember, the 3sixty you can easily transfer to another vehicle in 5 minutes flat so i wouldnt hold back on getting it for that reason. All you have to do is ditch the high-low converters, and then take the wires that used to go to the converters and wire them into your 3sixty. Whats nice is that your stock headunit im sure doesnt have subwoofer outputs or a center channel so you can actually have it auto sense that and merge the left and right channels together internally so you will have rca outputs that allow you to use the center and subwoofer outputs when you dont have them as inputs. Also, i was wondering this. When you tested the high-low converter voltage, did you test it on both sides of the converter? I am curious to why you managed to get a 1v reading and now it comes up as 0. It could easily be that the converters cant handle the high power you are giving them since you are pretty much maxing out your radio at 33 since it is the max you can go before it clips. How did you get the 1v measurement again? Also, one thing you can do to fiddle with it, turn the volume on your headunit down to like 20-25 and then see if you can turn up those gain adjustments on the converter to get the dd-1 to detect any voltage on them when its hooked to the amp. Also, are you 100% certain your amps dont have any bit of crossover enabled? You must have it set to full pass when you set the gains or else it will block the freq from playing.

Yea nobody believes me for my age. Everyone thinks im a lot older (until you meet me cuz im rude, annoying, a total smartass, and never shut the hell up. rofl) but i still drink on the occasion but have never been bombed. I got my job i am at now as a helpdesk technician for a bank when i was 18 so i was the youngest guy to ever be hired at that place and one of the smartest too. lol. For your radio, who needs a/c? Just roll down the windows, and if its raining thats even better for helping you cool off. lol. I know about the radios having the a/c controls through them. My dads old caprice (idr the year) but it had the entire vent control knobs in them. The temperature adjustment, rear defroster, vent speed, vent openings, etc. He still has the radio sitting in the basement and we dont have the car but it was just for some parts if he ever needed them for his friends old cars.